Spain~Northern~April, 1995
Gail South
April 21-22, 1995: Twenty four hours after leaving Beach Haven we arrived in Madrid, via Harrisburg, Pittsburgh and London. Saw a statue at the airport by Botero, whose work Paige and I first saw in Paris, then later in NY, then finally in Miami. Our karmas must be intertwined. Picked up our Peugeot and headed for “Centro Ciudad”. I had selected the Hotel Francisco I, between the Puerto del Sol and the Opera, and we found it without incident. The room was fine. We showered (my hair dryer didn’t work) and set out to explore the old city.
First the Plaza Mayor, where arches lead to all sorts of winding streets. It was built in 1620, by the same architect who built El Escorial, which turned out to be Jerry’s favorite spot. Today, cars are banned from the square, one of the largest in Europe. It has seen it all: autos da fe, bullfights, fires and celebrations. We walked and walked, through a crazy quilt of dipping and rising streets and plazas. We saw churches and memorials, shops and restaurants. Through the Arab Quarter and past government buildings and military headquarters, complete with Uzi-equipped guards. The city is more modern-feeling than others I’ve visited in Europe. We stopped for a cerveza at La Chate, where locals were drinking amid hanging Serrano hams and photos of famous bullfighters, old place, very new patrons. Then we went to a seven storey shopping center/mall and bought a new, Spanish-style curling iron. We had a great dinner, roast pork and lamb and white asparagus at Casa Gallega, with a wonderful wine, Rioja Alta, Vina Araia Reserve, 1986. And then we turned in after 34 hours without sleep.
Sunday, April 23
Next day, after listening to Madrilenos party all night, we woke up at 10:45. Stopped at a patisserie, the first of many on this trip, and walked to the Prado, down beautiful, wide boulevards, passing through a church with angels peering down at a wedding in procession and at us. The Prado was everything I had hoped. We concentrated on el Greco, Velasquez and my favorite, Goya. The museum has his work hanging in three distinct areas. The first was full of sunny, happy pictures of people having fun, picnics, fairs and children playing. Then came portraits and military pictures (including the Maja, vestida and desnuda. Finally were the “black pictures”. Hung in a separate area, darkened and framed in black and gold, they are terrifying nightmares scenes. We also say some wild Bosch’s and Bruegles.
Got rather lost looking for a restaurant. A local gentleman took pity on us and recommended La Gallega do Saumon . It was full of families and we had another marvelous meal. I had revuelto con ajetes (scrambled eggs with tuna and a springtime specialty of young garlic shoots pulled from the center of the bulb, and a salad of endive with Roquefort. Jerry had vegetable soup and frilled langoustines. After, we were caught in the rain in the botanical gardens. Returned to the hotel.
After the sun came out, we emerged to find a huge crowd in front of our hotel, all decked out in their finery. (We had moved the car to a side street an hour before, fortunately). Our hotel was next to the 17th century Church of San Gines. This was one of Madrid’s oldest churches. Today was to be the occasion of a “Procession.” These are big public recollections of the Passion, death and resurrection of Jesus. A much venerated statue, called a “paso”, is carried through the streets on foot. Participants are filled with a sense of repentance and a need for some outward expression of faith. Groups organizing the processions are called “Cofradian,” a religious fraternity, and each one gravitates around one certain statue to which all its members are particularly devoted. Those carrying the statue are called “Costaleron” and they carry it on their shoulders. Since the statues can weight over two tons, this is quite trying. It began with the saint inside the courtyard. Guards were lined up to precede it on its way. Many of the costaleros were women, dressed in black, with black lace mantillas, and several were crying. It passed, turned 450 degrees and headed off, “La Virgen de la Soledad”.
We walked some more and took the Metro to el Retiro, the main park. We ambled down more beautiful streets and saw fountains and arches. This is a great city!! There are many streets closed to traffic, filled with shoppers and walkers. There are homeless everywhere, even on the doorstep of the National Institute of Health. The bear and the strawberry tree (madreno) in the Plaza del Sol., Madrid’s official emblem, and the spot from which all the distances in Spain are measured. We had a plate of ham and cheese at a “jamoneria”, then relooked at everything, now alight. Finally we returned for a good night’s sleep.
Monday, April 24
Major change of plans today. We left Madrid for the Pyrenees. The day was overcast and chilly. After about an hour, it began to sprinkle, then to snow. Madrilenos have no idea how to drive in the snow, and accidents abounded. The military was in action, telling everyone to travel “muy despair.” When we finally arrived in Soria, we decided against the mountain route and headed west to Burgos. It was a good decision. Burgos is a beautiful, friendly city. We found a nice hotel, Hotel Espana, overlooking a tree-lined promenade, El Espolos (in Spain, very many of the plazas have mutated sycamores, apparently easy to “sculpt”, as they self-graft. We stopped at the visitor’s center and got a beautiful book on the province. Ate at Mesa de Cid, a 15th century building owned and operated as a restaurant by the same family for four generations. I had Sopa Dona Jimenez (garlic and bread), morcella (black sausage), roast lamb, and “grandfather’s dessert”, Burgos cheese with honey and walnuts; Jerry had fish soup, fresh trout and some of everything on my plate.
We visited the impressive cathedral, begun in 800 and the walked through the town. There were jewels of Gothic architecture. Below the lantern in the square lie the remains of El Cid. Climbed up to the remains of the castle, once an important medieval fortress, from which we had a magnificent view of the town. Burgos played an important role pm the Way to Santiago, which I may walk someday.
Left early and turned north toward “Green Spain”.
Tuesday, April 25
We travelled through rolling hills, where green wheat and yellow mustard alternated in neatly planted fields. Lots of monasteries and ruined castles everywhere. On to the sea, stopping in Guermia to see the monument and pick up tourist info. Lunch in Bermea, a truly picturesque and truly fishing village. I had rape al Jokin, monkfish with clams and langostinos in a red wine sauce. Jerry had cocochas kokotxas, triangular throat pieces from hake with clams and more hake. Magnifico!! We watched the fishing boat pull up and unload its catch at the restaurant’s kitchen door.
The on around the coast, through San Sebastian and into France. We decided to use this route to cross the Pyrenees back into Spain. Crossed at Luzaide-Valcarlos and spent an hour searching for the Casas Rurales mentioned in the book. One was closed and the owners of the other two had gone to Pamplona. We decided not to wait for them and went on to Burgete ourselves. We fond a nice hotel, Hotel Burgete, just as it began to snow! We are the only guests, and it shows. We had chicken noodle soup, fresh trout and flan with a local, very fruity wine. Then to bed. Later we found out that our hotel was the one where Hemingway stayed to fish, as described in The Sun Also Rises.
Wednesday, April 26
Left Burgete in a snowstorm, did a quick turnaround in Roncevalles, where Roland fell after vainly calling for help on his Sicilian ivory battle horn. Crossed the Irati, world renowned trout stream. The sky cleared and the scenery was magnificent. From Ochagavia we had an absolutely gorgeous ride to Isabe and then to Rossel, where we got cheese and pastries. Saw a beautiful rainbow high atop a mountain. The sky was filled with vultures and golden hawks, so close I thought they were after our cheese. These are real “green” roads, narrow and winding, although, surprisingly, less so than in southern Spain. Herds of sheep and goats everywhere blocked roads (note the bus at the rear of the flock). Most Spaniards don’t have cars and use busses or their own feet to get around. In the town of Hecho, far off even the green roads, we found a huge outdoor sculpture garden, full of very modern carvings. I couldn’t find anything about it in any of the books. We had lunch in Jaca, a modern city. I had lamb and Jerry had rabbit.
On to Monte Perdido National park and its snowy pine forests. We saw large trout in a steam where fishing is prohibited. In Ochagavia, where our “casa rurale” was waiting, our hostess talked with us for a while. Then we settled in with lots of warm coverlets and then walked through the town, visiting all three bars: one for old men, one for students, and one for us, although we didn’t partake of the local drink, half wine and half Coke.
Thursday, April 27
Left about 8 AM and took a slightly different route south, through the semi-arid sides of the mountains. Crossed the divide to a magnificent view. Mist-covered valleys and snow-capped mountains. We descended to the Aragon valley and followed it back the way we had come the night before, turning off at Santa Cruz de la Serios and continuing to San Juan de la Pena, a remarkable construction of a 10th century hermit monk who came to the mountains and lived in a cave. A stronghold of Christian resistance during the Moorish invasion between the 8th and 15th centuries. The monastery was founded in 920.
From here it was back across the plains to Pamplona, largest city in Navarre, and home to the July festival made famous in Hemingway’s accounts of the running of the bulls in The Sun Also Rises. We were lucky to find a parking place right in the Plaza del Castillo at high noon. The Plaza was packed, and there were banners everywhere celebrating ïnvierno”(spring). We visited the cathedral and agreed that it was the most impressive we’ve seen. Although not as large as some, it has been beautifully restored by the government I (think the government must be the main employer in Spain, especially outside the cities) and every chapel, as well as the main cathedral, is in excellent shape. We worked our way through a warren of narrow streets, finding a very out-of-the-way restaurant, Erboro, where I had my best meal so far, fresh artichokes with clams. Jerry’s wasn’t so hot, but c’est la vie. We looked at the Hotel Iruna, where Lady Brett stayed.
We followed the route which the bulls run. Starting at the far end of the alley, they chase valiant (or foolish) crowds to the bullring where a bust of Hemingway marks the entrance.
We left Pamplona, detouring through Puenta de la Reina, where we saw a beautiful church, the on to Olite, where we had hoped to stay in the parador, but it was full. We got a nice room on the square at Hotel Carlos III, then shopped for cheese and fruit and toured the castle. We climbed to the top of each of the six towers (Whew!!) and had six wonderful views, including a stork in its next.
Friday, April 28
We found an antique car show right outside our door: Fords, Chevys, Chryslers, Caddy’s, two Rolls and miscellaneous other. Odd. Drove straight through to Segovia, through fields of red, white and yellow wildflowers, asparagus fields, and miles of vineyards and olive trees. Pass through Soria again, turning on the Ruta de las Catedrales. Again we found a place to park on the square and retrieved maps from the tourist office. The Cathedral was magnificent. They had an organ concert just for us. This is a rather touristy city, but I would love to spend some more time here. We walked down to the Roman aqueduct, an architectural wonder; after 2000 years, it still brings water from the hills to the city. We tried to visit the Palace at Riofrios, with its forests full of deer, but it was closed, so we drove on to el Escorial, the most totally impressive place we’ve seen.
This monastery turned palace has been impeccably restored, and houses a collection of Spanish art second only to the Prado. The tombs of all but three Spanish kings (I question this, since they have seemed to be buried everywhere we’ve been) , wonderful frescoes, and a Basilica modeled after St. Peters in Rome, with a ceiling in the style of the Sistine Chapel are also here. GREAT! We had lunch before our tour at La Cueva . Jerry had beans cooked with chorizo and an artichoke dish with ham. I had marvelous sautéed wild mushrooms and eggs with morcella (and a parking ticket when we returned).
South to Toledo, where we found all the hotels full. So we headed back toward Avila and settled in the Hotel Castilla in Torrijos.
Saturday, April 29
Spent the entire day, and were happy we did, in Toledo. The city reminds me of Venice without the canals. Clearly dedicated to tourists, the crafts available were very good. This was the only time we shopped. The attractions were great. The Cathedral in Toledo was the best we’ve seen. It’s worth much more than the two and a half hours we spent there. The art museum alone was spectacular. The Charter Room had portraits of every head (bishop??) of the Toledo church since the 10th century. I can imagine what the current chief must think when he sees his portrait at the end of the row. We saw several other churches and a wonderful chapel with el Greco’s “Burial of Count Orgay”. It’s impossible to describe how beautiful, moving and uplifting it is. We had breakfast at a wonderful sidewalk café and a scrumptious lunch of cream of crawfish soup, partridge stew and flan. Also a snack of superb marzipan. Visited an exhibit of current artists: “Ceramistas Creativos”.
Headed west, where I got good overviews of the city. Then north through more wildflowers. When we got to Aranjuaz, jolly Gail decided we should see the Casita de Laheradores. This was a small palace, like that created by Marie Antoinette at Versailles. We walked, and walked, and walked for MILES, then decided not to spend $9 to see the palace.
Got really lost trying to find the recommended hotel near the airport, Hotel Diana, but finally did it. Dined there and returned the car with twenty-four hours left to Harrisburg.