Mexico~Cabo san Lucas~October, 2003

Friday, October 10, 2003

Met Rose and Al at her house at 3:30 am and were seated at EWR by 5:30, having left our car at Vista long-term parking. We ate hard-boiled eggs and cantaloupe and boarded a full America West flight at 6:30 for a 7 am takeoff. Al’s bag had to be checked. Smooth and very long flight to Phoenix. We had a picnic of tuna, tomatoes and cucumbers at the gate, boarded and off to sunny Mexico.

We got our car (after a sales pitch for a time share) and found the road. The portion of the Baja peninsula lying along its southern tip is known in Spanish as “Los Cabos”. Because the only really dramatic promontory in the area is at Cabo San Lucas, it’s likely that the plural term comes from the two towns of Cabo San Lucas and San Jose del Cabo, both of which we hope to explore. This area has undergone more change from a recreational standpoint than any area in Baja. During the first few years following completion of the Transpeninsular Highway in 1973 the region already contained several first class hotels catering largely to the general aviation flyer, but the camper was king. Now most camping is a thing of the past. The Cape Area has become one of the world’s finest resort and hotel meccas. And we are to stay in one of them.

Very beautiful coastline with clear evidence of the recent hurricane. Much erosion of very sandy hillsides. Cactus everywhere. Mountains to the west. Lots of new big resorts, golf, etc, but still much of old Mexico. Found the Hilton and dropped off Rose and Al. Looked for Casa Dorada and found it in the Hilton (time shares on one side and hotel on the other). Our room is one down from A&R. We were supposed to get a suite, but this room is very nice—gorgeous bath, microwave, fridge and nice patio overlooking the pool and the Sea of Cortez. Unpacked and showered (lovely). Had a margarita courtesy of another time-share lady. We are going to have breakfast and listen to their sales pitch tomorrow. In return, we get discounts and $150 toward the car rental. Met A&R and found a liquor store and grocery.

Got some supplies (including tequila after a nice lady gave us a sample and a baseball hat) and headed for San Jose del Cabo. San Jose del Cabo is a town of 10,000 people. Its history is one of the richest in the peninsula and includes the activities of the early Jesuit mission, visitations by numerous ships and famous captains, and an intensive battle in the Mexican-American War. We strolled around the main area of tourist shops. Then we found Damiana (Blvd. Mijares 8 on the town plaza), a really nice restaurant. It is housed in an 18th century hacienda. We ate in the tree-shaded patio with bougainvillea on the sides. Reuben was a great waiter. Jerry and I had a mixed salad with avocado and A&R had a very spicy cheese soup. Salsa and chips (non Atkins) first. Then we all got different entrees and shared. Al got jumbo blue shrimp; Rose got steak; Jerry had rancher shrimp in cactus juice and I got the best entrée—octopus, tender and loaded with garlic. Then we strolled and found the San Jose del Cabo version of the Beach Haven Community Arts Program—music on the green (concrete) with children dancing. The statue in the plaza is that of Naval Lieutenant Jose Antonio Mijares, who died here in 1847 while defending the town from takeover by the US. Home by 8:30 (12:30 am our time) and bed.

Saturday, October 11

Very eventful day. Slept OK and got up to meet A&R at the “time share breakfast” at 8:30. We met with the rep and heard his sales pitch, and then we had a great breakfast and a tour. A&R ended up BUYING a one bedroom for a week each year. It took a few hours, so we didn’t leave for Cabo till twoish. In the meantime, Rafael called to tell us we were moving to a suite like the one A&R bought and almost directly above where we had been. We had a free margarita while they negotiated. Drove into Cabo and parked at the mall lot (free). Then we walked and walked around the very nice, albeit touristy, marina. R&A bought some jewelry from street vendors. We met our captain and had some discussion about the price—he will check with Lori.

Stopped for a snack, shrimp quesadillas and lobster. Then we went for a sunset cruise with La Princessa Cruises, “a romantic and beautiful scenic cruise.” We had received a discount and it was a good deal at $20 with continuous drinks, although we are all tired of margaritas. We saw other cruises that were much more “lively”. Lots of frigate birds. Came back and sat and talked on our new porch overlooking the sea. Al told a great story about shark fishing. To bed for a good night’s sleep.

Sunday, October 12

Took pictures of a beautiful sunrise at 7:15, and then went for a dip in the ocean. Very warm, very salty, no fish. Then into the pool for a bit. Got ham and cheese in the deli for breakfast. Met A&R and then headed for Todos Santos. Gorgeous drive up the Pacific coast. Forests of cacti coated with fuscia colored bougainvillea. The recent hurricane, Marty, did much damage. Normally dry arroyos were muddy and huge boulders had obviously been moved from the force of the water. The Santa Laguna Mountains were eroded along the road but green and lots of different wildflowers and birds. There was some kind of cross-country “ATV” race that we were ahead of by mere moments—very, very interesting.

Historic Todos Santos is a palm-fringed oasis for artsy types. Unfortunately, all the galleries were closed for its only official festival that of Nuestra Senora del Pilar, the patron saint of the town. It is also allegedly the anniversary of the town’s founding in 1723. Before the road that connects Todos Santos and Cabo San Lucas existed, the town was virtually unknown, and today we seem to be the only tourists around. We had a great time walking around. We bought lunch from the church ladies—burrito, tostado, enchilada, pulled pork. Then we (all but Jerry) had homemade ice-cream: pistachio, pomegranate, chocolate—fantastic.

On the way home, we stopped at Playa Punta Lobos—beautiful. My feet got burned in the sand. An extended Mexican family was having a picnic under a tarp. Al found a cactus skeleton for Rose. Then to Cabo to try and find Benjamin about the boat. No suerte. Home for a swim. Dinner at El Tulipan (Blvd. Mijares & Manueel Doblado)—guitar player was nice, but menu was overpriced. Chicken stuffed with Gorgonzola and tuna.

Monday, October 13

Up early to fish. We were supposed to be at the dock at 6:30. We stopped for breakfast at a café on the Marina and it took longer than we had anticipated. Then we had to fuel up El Maninero and by the time we got to the boats to buy bait, only 2 were left, no problema as it turned out. Went out in a huge flotilla, Al said it was like a tournament to the Pacific. We passed the famous Land’s End and the Arch, also Lover’s Beach. Saw sea lions on the rocks. We spotted a temple that looked Egyptian. Captain Roberto said it was the Temple of Apollo—part of a new Brad Pitt movie called Troy. They also built a whole city behind the dunes and then we saw a huge black Trojan Horse. We’ll all be looking for the movie. Spent the day trolling in a big circle. Rose and I each caught a shiny baitfish. Rose lost a fish early and then no suerte for a long time.

We had lunch and Mate Rafael put out hunks of the fish (instead of the lures we had been using). Gail caught a little Dorado, which we threw back. Jerry brought in a nice sized one, but Rafael failed to gaff it and it escaped. Then Al caught one big enough for dinner. Back in about three. We were hot and tired. Rose and I spent a little time at the pool. Al arranged for the hotel restaurant, La Hacienda, to cook the fish and we met for dinner at 7. It was a great meal; they charge $15 to make it 3 ways: fried, blackened and grilled, and served it with a nice salad and bread. I had a local Damiani liqueur for postres. Al has a bad case of Montezuma’s revenge and left before coffee.

Tuesday, October 14

We had reservations for the Dessert World ATV ride at 9 am, but Al was sick all night so we moved it to Thursday. Jerry and I set out to explore the East Cape beaches. The concierge said we couldn’t do the road as the hurricane had badly damaged it. We drove to San Jose where the Centro de Tourismo had closed. Its place was taken by Advantage Rent-a-car, where a very nice young man, Eliud Aguilar, gave us lots of advice, including, “don’t try the road”.

We visited the church at the head of the plaza where we had heard the band on our first night. The mosaic over the entrance depicts the 1734 Indian uprising in which a priest was killed. It was built in 1940 on the final site of the mission originally founded in 1730. We bought some film and went to the Estuary and Bird Sanctuary—a joint effort of the town and one of the big hotels, the Hotel Presidente Inter-Continental. There can be no more historic spot on the peninsula. The original 1730 mission was located between here and the cemetery, and the fresh water entering the lagoon here was of critical importance to the crews of the ships plying the Pacific waters. The estuary was OK—lots of “our” water birds and a couple of new yellow ones.

Then we drove up route #1, stopping at the roadside monument at the Tropic of Cancer for a photo op. Then on, past Santiago, an historic town supported by small farms and ranching, to the village of La Ribera. The highway is out in many places and Jerry practiced his OBT skills. This was a good thing, since once we started south on the coast the roads reminded us of trying Masai Mara in a regular car. The scenery was magnificent but the land seems uninhabited. We found and followed one “road” to the sea, where several big homes had been built. We walked down to the beach—the most beautiful shad of blue I have ever seen. Jerry found two cactus skeletons.

We made our way to the Hotel Punta Colorado, “the roosterfish capital of the world”. It was a fishing camp. There were a few fisherpeople staying there. We were the only walk-ins. At one the bell rang for lunch. We were served a delicious bean and cilantro soup and then a plate of soft tortillas and a foil wrapped packet of marlin cooked with onions, peppers and cheese then guacamole and rice. We drank nearly the whole pitcher of ice water. Great meal. Jerry has now added Montezuma’s revenge to his head cold. We drove home, stopping in San Jose to pick up some breakfast for tomorrow. The air is absolutely filled with little butterflies—some yellow, others orange. Came home, showered and went into San Jose for a world-class magnificent meal at El Chilar (B. Juarez & Morelos near Telmex. Phone 142-2544, 146-9798).

Wednesday, October 15

Off on El Manenero. I lost a BIG (mate said 45 pound) Dorado—he bent the hook open escaping—but was beautiful—about 7:45. Then nothing till after lunch. R&A had each caught a baitfish—hers was yellow with blue pinstripes and his was brown and white stripes. Then I caught a keeper Dorado and Jerry and Al each caught a big one. We saw a blue marlin and some tuna and a sailfish followed the bait almost to the lure. We also saw lots of jumping dolphins. We took the meat we wouldn’t be eating for dinner to a smoker. I bought a couple of souvenirs at the Mercado de Artesanias.

Thursday, October 16

Had a wonderful ATV ride through the desert at Desert Park, just a short drive from the hotel. It was described as “an amazing 25 mile journey through the private ecological reserve, a network of connecting trails, crossing arroyos, traversing mountains and narrow canyons.” It was all that. We seem to be lucky in the season of our visit. After the hurricanes and recent rains, all is green. We saw many different kinds of cactus: cardones (saguaro), organ pipes, barrel, and chollos. A few birds, millions of butterflies, flowers, a century plant and a waterfall (one month more only). We also sawthe “mala mujer,” or wicked woman, a spiny prickly plant that stings like a nettle: big divided leaves have near half-inch stinging hairs springing out of white pustules. Definitely worthwhile. Had a great buffet lunch at La Hacienda. R& A want to Cabo to get our smoked fish (she had a massage instead of the ATV ride). J & I went snorkeling—2 big business meetings are going on. We saw some pretty fish but should have gone to Santa Maria Beach. Last dinner at La Hacienda—shrimp in shredded filo, steak and tuna.

Friday, October 17

Had a good buffet breakfast and left about 10 for our 12:45 flight. Long but uneventful. Got to EWR about 10:30 and were home shortly after 0ne. Excellent trip!! NOTES:DORADO—This Mexican staple table food fish is also one of the most exciting to angle for because of its abundance and aerial acrobatics. While out looking for Marlin, many anglers will often find a cargo net, a piece of plywood or some other floating debris with a nice school of Dorado underneath it. Mexican for “golden,” the Dorado is also known as the Dolphinfish or Mahimahi.