Kenya~March, 2008
Monday, March 31, 2008
Herb picked us up at Beach Haven 5 pm. Depart from Newark (Terminal B) at 9:25 pm for a 6 hour and 40 minute flight (VS002) to Heathrow (Terminal 3), arriving at 9:05 am Hang out at Heathrow ---found a place with sofas (Internet lounge)Depart on VS671 at 7:15 pm for 8 hour 50 min flight to Nairobi—arrive 6:05 am April 2
Wed., April 2
We were met at the airport by a Graduate Tours representative, James, and transferred to the Safari Club in Nairobi. The only all suite hotel in Nairobi with bay windows in both bedroom and lounge accords panoramic views of the city and horizons beyond. It offers a bedroom with dressing table and en suite bathroom communicating into a spacious lounge with comfortable seating, writing desk, dining table, personal bar, personal digital-code safe, and satellite television with remote control. A bit down-at-the-heel, but very friendly staff.
We were picked up by James and the driver, William, who was to be our guide, about 10 after a very good buffet breakfast for the Giraffe/Blixen excursions. Interesting, but not worth a whole day. We should have pushed ourselves for immediate transfer to Samburu. As it was, we were dropped back at the Safari Club about one so that William could drive the 5 ½ hours to camp. We sat around till 6:15, went to the bar for a drink and then to the restaurant at 7 for an expensive but good dinner (sautéed crocodile and baby lamb chops). The driver/guide drove us around Nairobi, which is more of a city that I had remembered, but without much to see or do (no museums, etc). Lots of government buildings and monuments to freedom fighters. Very, very congested and without many traffic rules (note: this was vastly better than the soon to be experienced Cairo). We also saw the slum where many of the riots occurred after the December elections.
Saw black-headed oriole and Hadada ibis at Blixen. Black kites soared above the hotel. Maribou storks on trees and rooftops. Here the children think babies come from vegetables at the grocery store. It is evident that the “troubles” have kept tourists away. We were the only ones in the restaurant (which had none of the wines on the list and was out of much of the menu. William has not worked since Dec.Usually, organized trips to the Karen Blixen House also take in the Giraffe Manor, which has been set up to protect the Rothschild Giraffe, an endangered subspecies. There is a tower with educational facilities for school visits, and where you are high enough to feed the giraffes. Great for the kids, and hard for adults to resist. There is also a short nature trail where you have to be careful not to trip over the friendly warthog, and there are feeding stations giving close-up views of the local birds and squirrels.
Thu, April 3 Fly Nairobi (9:15 am) with views of Mt Kenya to Samburu (one hour 5 min) to Samburu Serena Lodge.
Got up early to avoid traffic. Breakfasted at a nice buffet and arrived at Wilson airport by 7:30. The plane (a small prop with four other passengers) flew right by snow-capped Mt Kenya and made one stop at a dirt airstrip before dropping us off. William was there to meet us and we had a short drive to the park and then a good 2 ½ hour game drive. Lunch at the lodge—nice buffet. Afternoon game drive—many birds. Crocodile feeding at 6:30. Dinner and to bed early. Samburu National ReserveA place of endless skies, dust-red plains and palm-fringed rivers, Samburu National Reserve lies on the fringes of the vast and arid desert once known as the Northern Frontier District, whose heat-scorched scrublands extend all the way to the jade-green waters of Lake Turkana and beyond. Physically dramatic, the 104 sq kilometers landscape of the Reserve features rocky battlements, craggy scarps, dry river beds and fallen boulders rising out of the thorn scrub against a backdrop of the far-distant hills and the great red table mountain known as Lololokwi. As for wildlife, Samburu provides one of the few sanctuaries in Kenya for the endangered Grevy’s zebra, the rare beisa oryx, reticulated giraffe, Jackson hartebeest, gerenuk, and the blue-shanked Somali ostrich whilst large herds of elephant roam the gaunt hills during the day before returning to bathe on the banks of the river in the evening. This is a dry country ecosystem and also includes reticulated giraffe, Grevy’s zebra, Somali ostrich and gerenuk whilst the bird life is diverse and prolific and includes marshal eagle, pygmy falcons, hornbills and Egyptian geese.
Fri., April 4—Samburu Serena—day of game viewing with private guide in private van. A dawn drive and afternoon and evening drives for 2-3 hours each
Sat., April 5—Samburu to Laikipia
Five-hour game drive followed by drive to Sweetwaters. Lunch there then an afternoon drive and then a fabulous two-hour night game drive (9-11 pm). We saw 11 lions hunting, an aardvark, Thompson’s and Grant’s gazelles, waterbuck, impalas, eland, Jackson’s hartebeest, bush buck, Grevy’s and regular zebras, buffalo, a white-tailed mongoose, silver backed jackal, bunnies, Cory bustard, crowned plover, night jar, crowned cranes, a tawny eagle and 11 lions sleeping.
Sweetwaters Tented Camp
A sheltered oasis, clustered around a waterhole and set in the pristine calm of its own private reserve, Sweetwaters Tented Camp is in a class of its own. Abounding with wildlife, unfettered by the more rigorous strictures of the Kenyan National Parks and designed to offer a charming blend of under canvas ambiance and uncompromising luxury, it has long been the preferred retreat of wilderness and safari lovers alike. One of only four private game reserves in Kenya, Sweetwaters excels in the provision of privileged seclusion and private game viewing. Thanks to its private status it also allows such unforgettable pleasures as night game drives, guided bush walks and both horse or camel riding across its game-teaming plains.Built in the 1970’s, the Camp’s main building was originally the residence of the ranch manager of this private reserve. Both the Sweetwaters Game Reserve and the sumptuous Ol Pejeta Ranch were once the private domain of famed multi-millionaire, Adnan Kashoggi.Habitat The reserve comprises extensive savannah grasslands and the riverine forests that border the Ewaso Nyiro River.Rooms Accommodation is provided in 39 luxuriously appointed tents (13 doubles, 26 twins). Each tent has a thatched roof, an ensuite bathroom and its own verandah with views over the waterhole. DiningThe camp prides itself on the quality of its cuisine offering a 5-course "table d’hôte" dining experience every night, and a selection of African, Asian, and international dishes. The "Rhino Restaurant" is accommodated amidst the quaint charm of the main house, which was once the home of the Ranch Manager. Here open windows look out over stunning views and the traditional décor features soft sofas, traditional prints and splendid stone-built fireplaces.Kashoggi Bar and LoungeWith its blazing log fire, soft lights and enveloping ambiance, this is the ideal venue in which to enjoy a light aperitif or a relaxing nightcapLocationThe camp lies at the centre of the 90,000 acres Ol Pejeta Conservancy, which lies on the Laikipia plains with views towards Mount Kenya. Nearest townThe camp is 17 km from Nanyuki, Laikipia District.Resident wildlife starThe camp also hosts a tame black rhino called "Morani", rescued from the wild.
Sweetwaters Chimpanzee Sanctuary
Established in cooperation with the Kenya Wildlife Service and the Jane Goodall Institute for Conservation Projects for Chimpanzees Throughout the World, the 1 km sq sanctuary is a non-profit-making venture and the only sanctuary of its kind in Kenya. A gentle and charming diversion for children and adults alike, it offers visitors the unique opportunity of taking a boat ride on the Ewaso Nyiro River, which flows through the centre of the sanctuary where 26 orphaned chimps enjoy the peace and harmony of their natural environment.
Sun., April 6—Sweetwaters
The camp enjoys spectacular views over the alternately lush and golden plains towards the snow-capped peaks of Mount Kenya. day of game viewing with private guide in private van. A dawn drive and afternoon drive for 2-3 hours each.
Mon., April 7—Laikipia to Naivasha.
Long drive to Naivasha with a stop for lunch at Lake Nakuru where thousands of flamingos form a brilliant pink covering over the surface. We had a few rock hyraxes join us for our picnic lunch. Lake Naivasha Sopa Lodge Situated on the southern shores of Lake Naivasha, second largest of only two freshwater lakes in Kenya's Great Rift Valley, Naivasha Sopa Lodge is an impressive property with a dramatic backdrop. The lake is the stage of some magnificent storms and was named Pasha (Rough Water) by the Masai tribes. An ornithologist’s paradise, the lake is home to 400 species of wonderful birdlife and an abundance of fish and water life. We went for a walk before dinner and saw some new things: Hadada ibis nesting in a tree, a Temminsks stint and two hammerkops. We need a guard to and from dinner to protect us from the hippos.
Tue., April 8—Naivasha to Masai Mara.
Game drive in Kensington MaraThis new tented camp is nestled in a bend of the Talek river just north of the Mara reserve. Hippos grunting in the river, elephant and giraffe wandering by, this is luxurious wilderness. A veteran staff carefully look after the selected guests. Sharing a connection with the local Masai, guests can hike with warriors, visit the local village, dance along with traditional songs, or hear the wisdom of generations from a local elder over the evening fire. Each Suswa tent is luxuriously spread down the riverbank in this pristine 80 acre preserve. Isolated and private, yet in the midst of a teeming corner of the legendary Mara park, guests will savor a close connection with nature. This exclusive camp is limited to only six luxury tents.Each tent is professionally furnished by Palacina, the design professionals behind such luxurious properties as The Palms, and Breezes in Zanzibar. The Masai theme is showcased with evocative metal headboards, lamps and fixtures. Hand-woven jute rugs accent the warm honey toned bed covers. Hand carved accents showcase Masai art. Snuggle up at night under a feather duvet in a sea of soft pillows. Each tent features two (2) queen beds. Your personal tent attendant will make sure that the room is meticulously cleaned, with bed turndown, a carefully drawn mosquito net, and hot water bottle to warm your bed on chilly nights. Each expansive tent has five areas. The open verandah is shaded, with canvas director's chairs and thoughtfully placed reading table angled to catch the best views of the Talek river immediately in front of you. Enjoy a cool drink or spot of tea as you watch the theatre of the wild on the far bank of the river.Inside, the bedroom features special oversized arched windows allowing cool breezes and warm light to wash through, while keeping the insects outdoors. A canvas wardrobe is ready to house your clothes, while a steamer trunk holds extra blankets. Side tables feature shining paraffin lamps, with bright pressure lamps at your convenience for nighttime reading in bed. The two queen size beds offer plenty of space to relax in comfort. The tent is completely screened, plus there are mosquito nets as an added comfort to ensure an uninterrupted slumber. Immediately behind the bedroom is a change area with ceramic sink on a hand carved wooden counter with large mirror. A wooden rack has a full set of plush towels. On your right, an enclosed bathroom with an ensuite toilet. And to the left, the shower with hot and cold running water. Food and DiningThree main meals are served each day in the large canvas dining tent overlooking the river. Picnic meals can also be prepared for your full day game drives. Menus feature locally grown vegetables and fresh ingredients. Our chefs are adept at preparing superb bush cuisine. Your dining experience culminates with five course dinners ending with coffee or tea under the stars. Bottled water is included in the tariff, and soda, beer and wine are available on a cash basis. On a tall bank, in a bend in the river, we light an evening fire to warm a semi-circle of chairs looking into the game park. Enjoy a superb view with good company as you exchange game viewing stories.
Wed, April 9—Masai Mara-- day of game viewing
Thu, April 10—Masai Mara-- day of game viewing. The camp arranged for the local Masai men to come and dance for us. It was very nice (they charged $10 for the evening)—much more “real” than the one we had seen at the hotel on our earlier trip.
Fri, April 11—Masai to Nairobi—Drive to Nairobi (one hour 15 min). We saw a group of baboons just before camp and there was a cute albino with them. I took lots of pictures, but apparently they are lost. Farewell dinner at Carnivore. Overnight at Safari Club.
Gail South
Birds slideshow is after narrative