Gail South
Autumn in Italy~or Under the Tuscan Clouds, Nov. 2000
Tuesday, Nov 7—Rome to Umbertide 191 KM (128 mi)
The flight was long but uneventful. We arrived in Rome about 7:30 am, found our car (a Fiat Punto) and headed north.
Narni is an intimate and unspoiled hill-town jutting into the Nera valley on a majestic spur crowned by a formidable citadel. The fortress draws an admiring glance before you notice the welter of chemical works around Narni Scalo, the new town. We got lost trying to find Carsulae, then stopped to explore Todi, one of the most enchanting hill towns, a warren of narrow, medieval streets twisting and plunging off at every angle, with many alleys whose graceful sets of shallow stairs flow down the center. It’s a cobble of mottled grays accented with brick, all surrounding a picture perfect central square celebrated as one of the finest medieval spaces on the peninsula. We parked outside the Porte Fratta and walked and walked. We visited the Duomo, atop a broad flight of steps. It represents a merging of the last of the Romanesque and the first of the Gothic forms filtering in from France in the early 14th century. The square, 3-tiered façade, recently restored (we were to see much such evidence of recent restoration throughout our trip), is inspired simplicity, with just a sumptuous rose window and ornately carved doorway to embellish the weathered pink marble—a classic example of a form found all over Umbria. Inside, the intricately carved choir was magnificent.
We went to the charming Caruso at Corso Cavoni 21 for lunch. Our table was right by a 3-foot thick window sill with a gorgeous view. The meal was great. I had an antipasto misto which was very varied and Jerry had tortelli in tartufo sauce. We had a local white wine and good bread and the bill was L32000. It was pouring when we came out, but immediately it stopped and a beautiful arcobaleno (rainbow) appeared.
We drove north and decided to skip Perugia—we are exhausted. We messed up trying to find La Chiusa, but finally arrived about 3:30, just as Marsha and her father were on their way out. She followed us back and we got settled in our very nice farmhouse. We asked her to make us reservations for dinner in their restaurant Friday. We have a living room/kitchen, bedroom and modern tiled bath. We have chickens in the back yard and roses in the front. Everything seems to be very well laid out. We are a few miles outside of Umbertide, so we took ourselves off there for the evening.
Umbertide In ancient times an important trade centre on the Tiber where the Umbrians and Etruscans bartered their wares. In Roman times it was known as Pitulum, and was later destroyed by Totila's barbarians. Tradition has it that it was rebuilt with the name of Fratta on its present site, towards the end of the 8th century by the sons of Uberto, Margrave of Tuscany. Until the 12th century it was self-governed, but in 1189 the Margrave Ugolino di Uguccione placed his territory under the protection of Perugia, to put an end to the continual pillaging. By 1362 it had its own statutes. It remained under papal sway until 1860, when it was annexed to the Kingdom of Italy. On January 25, 1863, the old name was changed to Umbertide in honour of Uberto's sons who first rebuilt the town. Bombed to the edge of oblivion in WW2, it is now a light-industrial town relieved by a tiny and captivating medieval center.
We provisioned at the “Coop” (the ubiquitous supermarket of the area) and toured the Rocca, built from 1374 to 1390 to a design by Angeluccio di Ceccolo, known as "Trucascio" and carried out by Alberto Giudalotti. The fortress consists of a massive square tower 40 metres high and three lower crenellated keeps. The walls are over two metres thick and formerly the gates were supplied with drawbridges. Recently the Rocca has been completely restored and opened to visitors like us, who can now move from the dungeons to the top of the highest tower. The halls are used for multifunctional cultural exhibitions and events. They were getting ready for a major art show and the walls were bare. We were hungry and walked for over an hour looking for an open restaurant (as in most of Europe, the Italians eat late).
We went back to the Rocca, where the attendant recommended Appennino, Via a L. Grilli 23, which didn’t open til 7. We walked some more and presented ourselves promptly at the appointed hour. We were, of course, the only patrons. No menu. Papa came out and asked if we wanted to select an antipasto from a buffet or go with a primary. We chose the later and I picked wonderful homemade spinach and ricotta ravioli in a wind funghi sauce. Jerry had tagliatelli in the same sauce. I forgot to mention that Papa gave us an antipast anyway of home cured anchovies and home roasted zucchini. Then for secondi we picked consiglio alla cacciatora —rabbit marinated in local wine and cooked with tomatoes and chilis. For contorini we had some sort of local greens cooked with oil and garlic. We were stuffed! The bill, including wine was 60,000. Jerry tipped Papa 10,000. Mama came down to ring up the MC. Papa gave us a grappa and sent us on our way.
Wednesday, Nov. 8--Orvieto
Got a pretty good night’s sleep and woke to birds singing and beautiful sunshine (No rooster crowing, however, these chickens must be pretty lonely). Had a light breakfast and started out. The Valdichiana: prosperous cattle country that produces the much prized Florentine bistecca. This former swampland was first drained by the Etruscans, whose work was allowed to unravel in medieval times, when the encroaching marshes drove the farmers of the region back up to the hill-towns. Only in the 19th c, with the reclamation schemes of the Lorraine dukes of Tuscany, did the Valdichiana become fertile again. It’s an underwhelming landscape but its flatness does at least mean that the towns on its flanks have very long sight lines. Hence the many castles on hilltops. Lisciano Niccone & Mercatale, then a neat Rocca at Pierle.
Cortona --“City of Art”
This stony hill town is one of the oldest cities in Tuscany. It was founded by the Etruscans, whose work can still be seen in the foundations of the town’s massive stone walls. We arrived about ten and parked outside those walls, then walked up, up, up to the central square. The city was a major seat of power during the medieval period, able to hold its own against larger towns like Siena and Arezzo; its decline followed defeat by Naples in 1409, after which it was sold to Florence and lost its autonomy. The main street, Via Nationale, is remarkably flat in comparison with the rest of Cortona. The numerous ladderlike alleys leading off it, for instance, the Vicolo del Precipizio are far more typical. We had an enjoyable and solitary visit to a museum which houses a bronze Etruscan oil-lamp chandelier as well as documented findings and displays about the ongoing excavations of “Melone II.” It was pouring when we came out, so we forwent further touring to head south around Lake Trasimeno. We got lost and ended up on the A1, so we continued on to Orvieto, arriving about 2. We again parked outside the walls and took a funicular to the top, then walked. We stopped for a good lunch at Trattoria La Grotta, Via Rue Signorelli 5, where I had roasted lamb with rosemary and a very nice crisp insalata mista and Jerry had Unbricelli with arribata sauce and stewed wild boar. We had an excellent Orvieto Classico Superior—Castello della Sala-Antinori, 1999. Bill was 93,000L.
Orvieto
The city seems not so much to rise as to grow out of the flat top of its butte. The buildings are made from blocks of the same tufa on which Orvieto rests, giving the disquieting feeling that the town evolved here of its own volition. A taciturn, solemn, almost cold feeling emanates from it stony walls, and the streets nearly always turn at right angles, confounding your senses of direction and navigation. It’s as if somehow Orvieto resents the humans who overrun it. The stonyness is greatly relieved by the massive Duomo rising head and shoulders above the rest of the town, its glittering mosaic façade visible for miles around. We walked around this glorious church, which had been recently cleaned and renovated and sparkled like gold in the sun. Also on the façade are some scary relief panels carved by the Maitanis, father and son. This panel depicts a jumble of the wailing faces of the damned and the leering grins of the demonic tormentors dragging them to eternal torture. When we went inside, we were curiously alone. When we began to enter the chapel, we discovered that we had to buy tickets at one of the tourist shops in the piazza. Jerry went and got them and ten we spent a long time in this wonderful place. I bought a book with Signorelli’s famous frescoes. Created in 1504, these are some of the most intense studies ever seen of the human body, plus a horrifically realistic and fascinating rendition of the Last Judgement. Just before we went into the chapel, three busloads of French tourists arrived, so we were fortunate to have beaten the crowds.
It was pouring and getting dark when we came out, so we took the scenic route home, stopped at the Coop for bread, cheese, olive oil, Proscuitto, and pulpa.
Thursday, Nov 9
Gubbio, some hill-towns and Assisi (112 mi) Up early and off by 8. We had a beautiful drive—leaves turning, mist burning off, slashes of green pine trees among the oranges and golds. Then north to
Gubbio where we found the remains of a prehistoric village near the city. “Iguvium” was an early city of Umbria. Allied with Rome since the 3rd century B.C., Gubbio bloomed, then slowly declined until the invasion of the Herulis and Goths. Destroyed by Totila, it was rebuilt in a higher position on the slope of Mount Ingino and fortified with two towers for defense. It avoided Longobardic invasion in the 568's, but was conquered & occupied by the Byzantines. Passed to the Church, Gubbio fought with Rome against Hannibal and passed periods of great splendour. After decay caused by Barbarian invasions, it recovered strength by sending an expedition of 1000 riders on their first crusade. During rough fighting against other communes, the figure of bishop Ubaldo Baldassini, emerged. With his martydom, he became the Patron-Saint of the town, Through Costacciaro on the edges of the Parco Regionale del Monte Cucco. South through Sigillo to Fossato di Vico, a hill town whose 11th c Romanesque gem, San Pietro, contains some fine Nelli frescos. It was locked, but had a charming little park with a moss-covered fountain. To Gualdo & Nocer Umbra to the OUTSKIRTS of Foligno. We decided to head directly for Montefalco, passing through Bevagna a serene and handsome backwater, with a windswept central piazza of austere perfection and 2 of Umbria’s finest Romanesque churches. Today is has scarcely spread beyond its medieval walls, remaining miraculously unscarred by the urban blight of most nearby hill towns.
Montefalco
We parked below the town and walked up. As you’d expect from the name (Falcon’s Mount), the town commands the Vale of Spoleto. The local tag of “la ringhiere dell’Umbria” (the balcony of Umbria) may be a touch hyperbolic but the views are nonetheless majestic and once past the modern suburbs you enter one of the finest hill-towns in the area, a maze of tiny, cobbled streets, with an artistic heritage out of all proportion to its size. The town was the birthplace of 8 saints, good going even by Italian standards, and began life as a small independent medieval commune known as Coccorone(also the name of the restaurant where we had lunch).
It was destroyed by Frederick II in 1249, his only legacy a gate named in his honor, and thereafter Montefalco took its new name. Its chief historical interest lies in a brief interlude in the 14th c, when the town became a refuge to Spoleto’s papal governors, left vulnerable by the defection of the popes to Avignon. Their munificent presence resulted in the rich decoration of local churches and the commissioning of Lorenzo Matiani, whose reliefs we had admired at the duomo in Orvieto, to strengthen the town walls (still impressively intact) and to build a fortress for the exiled rulers. Power thereafter devolved to Foligno’s Trinci family, to the rapacious Baglioni and eventually to the Church—cue for several centuries of quiet decline. Walking along the city walls which delimit the historic centre of Montefalco one encounters the four gates to the city, or what remains of them. Porta S. Agostino, where we entered, is the most majestic of the lot with its Ghibelline battlements; Porta della Rocca, where we viewed from the balcony, was demolished at the beginning of the 20C; Porta Camiano takes its name from the adjacent district; while Porta Federico Il, where we exited for Santa Chiara, is named in honour of the Swabian emperor. A number of patrician palaces border Piazza del Comune and Corso Mameli, offering fine examples of I 5C -17C civic architecture. Palazzo Comunale is the municipal office building dating from the 13C; of the original construction a two-light window remains, while the portico dates from the 15C. The Torre (tower) affords a lovely view.
The Museo Pinacoteca di S. Francesco is a museum containing paintings from the 13C - 17C. Of particular interest are the frescoes (1450-1452) by Benozzo Gozzoli in the central apse, which illustrate scenes from the life of St. Francis including his glorification among the Saints of the Order, his early companions, and the most prominent Franciscans. Then we had a special lunch at Coccorone Largo Tempestive set in a medieval building on the corner of Largo Tempestive and Via Fabbri. There was a fire roaring (where they grilled steaks and sausages while we watched) in the small, elegant dining room. We were most anxious to try the famous Sagrantino di Montefalco (a dark red wine with a rounded mouth feel and tannic bite—about the biggest and most complex wine you’ll get in Umbria—and finally recognized by the new DOCG classifications). We had a delicious bottle of Rocca di Fabbri 1992 with our primi (pasta with eggplant and truffles) and secondi (veal and braised beef with truffles) and salad. Bill was 130,000L. Back through Bevagna to
Assisi where we actually found a place to park inside the walls. We only really wanted to see San Francisco and it was everything I remembered. It, too, had been cleaned and renovated. We couldn’t see any of the damage from the ’97 earthquake. The Giotto frescos were wonderful. There was a tour group of Asian-Americans who somehow wangled the main chapel for a service with their own (I think) Anglican priest. When we left Assisi, we decided to try and find Montalbate, a monestery with a gorgeous cloister I had read about. After much twisting and turning, we arrived just in time for a glorious sunset. The monestery, however, was closed for renovation. It occupies a magnificent spot and I would like to come back some day.
We got to the Coop and Jerry went in for bread and fruit. I waited and read the International Herald Tribune about the American election (what is going on??). While he was in the store, there was a sudden flash of lightning, a crash of thunder, and a severe hail storm. The skies cleared in time for the ride home.
Friday, Nov 10. Citta di Castello to Arezzo (140 mi)
Left shortly before 8 and headed north. It was an absolutely gorgeous drive. We were “leaf peeking” at the peak of fall colors. On the way we passed a butcher shop with the “Oggi Porchetti” sign we had been looking for, so we stopped and got due cento of the great stuff for our lunch. (Porchetti day is when a whole suckling pig is stuffed w wild fennel and garlic and roasted on a pit)
Village of Monte Santa Maria Tibernia, atop a hill, a beautiful drive.Its origins hark back to time immemorial, as is testified by the nearby deposits of bronze objects found a century ago, and was an Etruscan trading station situated on the right of the Tiber, to barter with the neighbouring Umbrians. The village, perched in a charming position with an incredible view of the entire valley, still presents an intact mediaeval layout. We headed for Monterchi, got a little lost, but had a beautiful ride. When we finally found it and the home of the Madonna del Parto, it proved worth the search. This psychologically probing fresco by Piero della Francessca depicts the Virgin Mary 9 months pregnant with Jesus, shown to us by a pair of angels who hold back the curtains of the ark of the covenant.
We wanted to get to Arezzo since most things there close shortly after noon. This was the first big city we experienced and had trouble (as usual) with traffic. We happened upon the bus station where the Info was and a very helpful lady gave us maps and directions and help with parking. We went first to the Church of St. Francis where we saw one of the greatest fresco cycles by one of the greatest artist of the Renaissance, the same Piero della Francesca. It was only fully restored in 1997.The Legend of the True Cross (1452-66) shows how the Cross, made from the tree that bore the forbidden fruit Eve tempted Adam to eat, was found near Jerusalem by the Empress Helena. Her son, the Emporer Constantine, adopted it as his battle emblem. There is also a beautiful rose window by the French master Guillaume de Marcillar. More widows by this artist were in the Duomo, where we also saw our first Della Robbia terracottas in the Lady Chapel. Finally we wandered up the Corso Italia to the Piazza Grande, a charmingly off-kilter square leaning precariously to one side with a graceful loggia designed in 1573 by Vasari. There we found the unusual church, Santa Maria della Pieve. This 12th c building is Lombard Romanesque architecture at its most beautiful. It has an eroded craggy façade of stacked arcades in luminous beige stone. The spaces between the columns of the arcades get narrower at each level, which, along with the setting on a narrow street, only l\adds to the illusion of great height. The fat 120-foot bell tower of the hundred holes, with its before window was a 1330 addition. The arches in the interior are just starting to get plucked to Gothic pointiness, and dozens of windows light the place. On the high altar above the raised crypt is a 1320 polyptych of the Madonna and Child with Saints—all wearing gorgeously worked fabric—by Sienese master Pietro Lorenzetti. In the crypt, with its carved medieval capitals, is a 1326 reliquary bust by Arentine goldsmiths Peter and Paul; inside are the remains of Arezzo’s patron saint, St. Donato, a local bishop martyred in the 5th c. We left Arezzo with a newly acquired bottle of vino novello and an Int. Herald Trib (apparently there is still no decision on the election). Our goal was the monastery and church where St. Francis received the stigmata and started the Franciscan order in 1213.
La Verna
Another wonderful day (what could be called “a perfect fall day”). Although thousands of pilgrims journey here annually, there were few there when we arrived. We parked in a large empty lot overlooking a valley and picnicked away. Then we drove up to the sanctuary and got a guidebook. The place is a host of interconnected chapels used for worship (Some formerly were the bedrooms of saints, and you can stay there also). The Della Robias were outstanding. Back home (during the drive, the skies opened up and a downpour ensued) for our last night and dinner at La Chiusa. We were surprised to find two parties of Americans had made the trek into the countryside. We felt like insiders because we knen what was going on. We got the tasting menu which gave us half portions of 2 primi, 2 secondi, 2 contorni, and 2 doclce. Everything was delicious. We started with pasta filled with veal in a white, poppy seed sauce and a puree of squash on toast with toasted almonds, followed by rabbits with herbs and pork stew, mixed salad of fennel and a spinach dish. Dessert was walnut roll and cake with chestnust jam. We had a Vino Nobile di montepulciano, Vecchia Cantina 1996, and trundled off to bed.
Saturday, Nov. 11 (ST. MARTIN’S DAY) Umbertide to Castellina in Chianti
Left a bit late after settling our bill—some confusion re. agreed upon rate. Settled on higher rate with no charge for heating (a common practice here). The whole bill for dinner was 150,000+ 10,000L—undercharged for the wine.
Took the scenic route to Monte San Savino where we parked below and walked up to the town. The church of Santa Chiara was locked, so we went to the museum and a very gracious man told me it was “always open”—then he motioned for me to follow and unlocked the church and explained all. He also sold us a book in English explaining SanSavino and the della Robbia ceramics. We stopped for lunch at a very nice roadside rest. Jerry had ravioli with funghi and a huge grilled veal chop and I had tortellini with funghi and walnuts and grilled vegetables. We had the house Chianti, Colli Senesi, 1999—a bit young but good (56L)
Then we found our farmhouse, Caggio, in Castellina in Chianti. It’s very, very nice—modern and clean with a beautiful view. The girl in charge, Lisa, is a bit of a cold fish. She is English. We went off in search of
Montespertoli and the 12th annual Festa di Vino Novello"A terrace overlooking the world" is the most complete definition of Montespertoli, which from the center of the Chianti area boasts views of Florence and other large areas of Tuscany. At only 15 miles from Florence it is, in the summer, a "center of tourism", but it’s also clearly a year round residential town. Montespertoli considers itself one of the capitals of Tuscan wine and each year holds the first weekend after the 6th of November a festival for "Vino Novello”. We arrived shortly after 4 and walked around and watched the sun set. Posters announced the the festival would begin at 5. We got some hot roasted chestnuts and waited. Nothing happened. We shopped at the Coop, then returned. It was happening!! There were 13 wines to tase and we did. We narrowed it down to 5. We got some bruscetti from the ladies auxiliary and then returned for our final decision. We got 2 Primula Rossas (excellent) and 1 Parri (which has a strong cherry flavor) for 12,000L. They had a kind of “scorecard” to make notes—might be a good idea for Chowderfest. Then home to do laundry (a whole nother story).
Sunday, Nov. 12 Siena (21 mi) the Gothic city
We retrieved our laundry and hung it up—one blue load and one pink. We changed our plans a bit since the Duomo at Siena doesn’t open til 2:30 on Sun, so we decided to begin with
SantAntimo, the abbey on the front of the Frommer’s guide. We drove along the SS2 (the via Cassia) between rolling, undulating, tactile hills where cereals are grown, passing through Cuno, a rare example of a fortified agricultural village built at the beginning of the 14th c and other similar villages Monteroni d’Arbia and Lucignano d’Arbia. The sun came out over the peaceful setting of Sant Antimo standing intact amid olive groves. One of the most beautiful Romanesque buildings in T. This abbey has inspired many poets and painters and enchants everyone who goes there, and it did us. The ancient church, built of creamy travertine, called "the singing stone" for the way it reflects voices. It seems that the stone itself is singing! It is one of the few places in the world for the genuine "Gregorian chant"(Absolutely without music, only human voice). The very earliest surviving church dates back to the 9th c, but local people prefer to think that the church was founded by Charlemagne in 781. The soft, honey-colored alabasted interior has an odd luminous quality thatis seen to change according to time of day and season. Recorded chants echoed around the walls. Today, the church is tended by Augustinian monks. We had planned to stop at Bagno Vignoni to soak our feet in the thermal springs there, but a fine November Sunday had brought out hundreds of Italian tourists, so we passed and went through S. Quirico d’OrciaA tiny medieval borgo. For defense purposes, it was built atop a hill, which divides the Orcia and Asso valleys. Its main attraction is the Collegiata, a simple but extremely moving romanesque structure. There was also a grandiose Romanesque portal (c. 1080) with late 13th-century lions and caryatids sculpted on the façade.
Montalcino in search of Brunello
Impressive from a distance with its broken-toothed fortress on a high hill, Montalcino turns out to be surprisingly tiny when you get close. It has a few sights and churches and a good small museum, but what we really came for is to sip the town’s beefy Brunello wine. Developed in the late 1800s, when attention was focused on the Brunello grape (it was actually Sangioveto Grosso, a clone of Chianti's Sangiovese), this superior variety, carefully handled and extra-aged, yielded superior wine. We looked for a restaurant with bistecca and found Ristorante Gardino ‘da Alberto’ where we enjoyed pasta with wild boar sauce (this is a very active hunting area), grilled bistecca, and a salad with the best bottle of wine I’ve ever had: Col d’Orcia Brunello 1995. We stopped at the Entocaon the way out and bought 3 different bottles for special occasions.
Siena
The sky was clouding over as we reached the city. We found a place to park just outside the gate and walked up to the Duomo. First we visited the Ospedale di Santa Maria delle Scala (a name we had seen often as it used to sponsor many little walled towns). It has recently been converted into Siena’s principal cultural and museum space. There were beautiful frescos by Domenico di Bartolo, among others, depicting the good works of the hospital. The Duomo was magnificent, but horribly crowded with tour groups. It was built between 1136 and 1382 and is one of the most spectacular buildings in Italy, and one of the few to have been built south of the Alps in full Gothic style. Many ordinary citizens helped to cart the black and white stone used in its construction from quarries on the outskirts of the city. We walked to the famous Piazza del Campo just at dusk. The shell-shaped 12th c space is bordered by elegant palazzi. It has an elaborate fountain as its focal point, the Fonte Gaia. I got a noce (walnut) gelato. Jerry passed. He has a bad cold and is not feeling well. Arrived home to find our laundry all over the courtyard. Jerry’s going to bed.
Monday, Nov. 13 Chianti Wine Route
Began by driving to Gaiole via San Polo in Rosso, which was closed. We wanted to get there early for the monthly market day, which was not held for some reason.
Gaiole
We walked a while in this small town then drove up to the fortified village of Barbischio, on a winding little road to the east, with an occupied tower. A couple of km south of Gaiole, the twin circular towers of the Castello di Meleto peer from behind a screen of cypresses over the road leading to Castagnoli, where the houses form a fringe to a thickset fortress. We drove up to Castello di Brolio just outside the nearby village of S. Regolo It was closed but impressive enough on the outside. The building itself passed to the Ricasoli family as far back as the 12th c, and was the subject of frequent tussels between the Florentines and the Sienese. Demolished by the Sienese army, it was rebuilt in the 16th c, then in the 19th c it was converted into a colossal mock-medieval country residence by the vinicultural pioneer Baron Bettino Ricasoli, where Chianti Classico was born. We thought we would sample the fruits of his labours in the estate’s salesrooms, but the tours weren’t running and we didn’t care to just taste. North of Gaiole is the beautifully isolated Badia a Coltibuono. (Catamura del Chianti—excavations on grounds) The abbey’s core was founded in 770 but the monastery was owned and expanded by the Vallombrosan Order from the 12th c to 1810, when the Napolionic suppressions passed it into private hands and it became an agricultural estate. We saw the 11th c San Lorenzo church. Seven km north of Radda on a secondary road is the Castello di Volpaia, now a fancy hotel and vineyard. We also stopped at the Romanesque parish church of Santa Maria Novella. We were planning to take a hike from here but decided to press on. We stopped for luncj at Villa Miranda in Villa, just east of Radda, a wayside inn from 1842, with thick stone walls, yawning brick arches and wood beams rubbing the ceiling. There were several parties of locals enjoying a good home cooked meal.It was 143,000L, but that included an incredible ravioli topped with fresh white truffles. We also had ribboleta (a thick bread, cabbage and vegetable soup). I had “grilled meats” (Jerry had to eat half—there was a thick pork chop, a sausage, chicken and pigeon) and he had Braccola di maiale, a grilled pork cutlet. And we had the house wine, Villa Miranda Chianti Classico.
Radda one of the 3 players in the original Lega del Chianti and still an important wine center, retains its medieval street plan and a bit of its walls. The street plan of this minuscule but historic center is focused on Piazza Ferrucci, where the frescoed and shield studded Palazzo Comunal faces a church raised on a high platform. Neither is an outstanding building on its own, but taken together they form an impressive ancient core that gives Radda its appeal. The center of town is the 15th c Palazzo del Podesta, studded w the mayoral coats of arms of past podesta.
Then back to our home base, Castellina in Chianti
An Etruscan center later fortified by the Florentines as an outpost against rival Siena, CinC is one of the more medieval-feeling hill towns of the region and a triumvirate member of the old Lega del Chianti. C’s medieval walls survive almost intact, and the central piazza is dominated by the imposing crenellated Rocca fortress. The Church of San Salvatore on the square dates from the 16th c. Following its destruction in WW2, it was rebuilt and extended in a neo-roman style. Inside was a fresco of the Madonna and a wooden statue dating back to the Renaissance and representing the former patron saint of the town, St. Barnaha. The wooden gold-ornamented urn on the right contains the relics of the present patron saint, St. Fausto and his wildly dressed skeleton is seen below The nearby Via delle Volte is an evocative tunnel street w open windows facing out to the valley below—it’s a soldier’s walk from the town’s days as a Florentine bastion. Outside town on the road to Radda is a 6th c BC Etruscan tomb, the Ipogeo Etrusco di Montecalvario. It’s a perfect example of its type, a little green beanie of a hill surrounded by pines, topped with a pair of cypress, and slashed w stone-walled tunnels leading to the burial chambers beneath. We pushed the button on the little fuse box-looking thing on the right to flip the lights on.
Tuesday, No. 14 San Gimignano and South
Left early to find the weekly market in Poggibonsi
This is a modern, industrial and commercial Poggibonsi. There were about 12 blocks set off for stands. The vendors all had trucks specially made for the mercato. We bought a spit-roasted chicken, some baby green beans, little red tomatoes and pecorino chesse for our supper. There were all sorts of fish, clothes, shoes and housewares.. This was definitely the real thing and we seemed to be the only tourists.
San Gimignano
I’m very glad I came back to this hill town, mainly for its Collegiate church, a 12th c Romanesque building with wonderful frescos from the Old and New Testament; a St Sebastian flanked by frescos, cone of which was a terrifying depiction of hell; and a great pair of frescos by il Ghirlandaio in the chapel of Santa Fina. We shopped a bit and got a beautiful watercolor for Paige and Tom.
Volterra and the Cecina Valley~3000 years in the heart of Tuscany
This really was a “windy city”, this City of Alabaster “on a towering bluff that gets all the winds and sees all the world.” The city seems to rear higher than any other in Tuscany, rising a precipitous 1800 feet above the valley below. It’s a fortress-like town, drawn out thinly along a narrow ridge with a warren of medieval alleys falling steeply off the main piazza You cannot talk about Volterra without mentioning Alabaster, an artistic handicraft that boasts a centuries-old history and a nobility of traditions that can be felt in every nook and corner of the town. It is a calcareous substance mined in the surrounding area that has been widely used for millennia since the Etruscan craftsmen carved it to obtain urns to keep the ashes of their dead. Many of these cinerary urns are now exhibited in the Guarnacci Museum where the visitor can appreciate all the exquisite workmanship of the bas-reliefs. At the end of the 18th century, after a long period during which the craft of alabaster had virtually died out, Volterra saw a new Renaissance, and workshops sprang up with a high quality production that reached every part of the world, thanks to the resourcefulness of the so-called "Alabaster travellers". The secrets of the manufacture of this warm and luminous stone have been handed down for ages from generation to generation, and still represent one of the highest peaks of the italian artistic handicraft. In the characteristic workshops of the historic centre, where everything is covered with white dust, or in the many displays all around Volterra, the visitor will find great or small masterpieces to satisfy any taste. We got an egg for Meagan.
We also visited the town hall, once again covered with coats of arms of previous mayors. And the Duomo had some interesting sculptures, especially a wooden Deposition, carved in 1228, and a remarkably humane painted terra cotta Virgin and Child believed to be by a local, Zaccura da Volterra (1473-1544). On the ceiling were several very pretty della Robbias Then we had a wonderful lunch at Vecchia Osteria dei Poeti, via Matteotti 55, a hole in the wall with high vaulted ceilings and lots of light. The place was full of Volterrians on their luch break. We started with fantastic appetizers: crostini with funghi and truffle butter. Then Jerry had pappardelle con funghi and conghilio and roast potatoes. I had gnocchi with peas, cream and gorgonzola; white beans with tomatoes and pinzimonio (a dip made with olive oil, salt and fresh pepper, served with raw veggies for dipping). The fennel was especially good and was a welcome change from all the meat. We had the house red, which, oddly enough was called El Palio after the Sienna square.
Through Pomarance to Tuscany’s deep south. The Maremma was a stronghold of the Etruscans, but it was a swamp from the Dark Agtes to the 1600’s and is still a highly undeveloped region. Set in the Colline Metallifere (metal-bearing hills), from which lead, copper and silver ores were mined, Massa Marittima is far from being a grimy industrial town. Its history is closely associated with mining, and there are some excellent examples of Romanesque architecture.
Abbe di S. Galgano
This lovliest of ruins, a graceful Fr. Gothic church that lost its floor and roof centuries ago, stands in an isolated position. With its huge nave and aisles open to the sky, this is one of the most outstanding examples of Cistercian Gothic architecture in Italy. They are currently restoring is and have put lights in the floor, so the lines of the abbey are unspoiled. We arrive just at dusk and it was hautingly beautiful. It honors the nobleman turned hermit, Galgano Guidotti in the 12th c. We then went up the hill to the original church founded by the saint. It seemed to be locked and guarded by a dozen cats. The cleaning lady appeared and rather ungraciously let us in. Inside, the cupola consists of concentric rings of red brick and travertine, creating a striking color contrast. In the center we saw the sword which St. Galgano is said to have thrust into the massive rock as a sign of his renunciation of worldly life. It was NEAT!
Wednesday, Nov. 15—S. of Siena
Asciano
The heartland of the crete is this area southeast of Siena. The region is studded w lonely cypresses on sun-baked clay hills, and contains all the other classic Tuscan images, the wild landscape of eroded crete, clay, which you see in many Sienese paintings. We passed through this town and came to Chiusure, a border castle of the republic of Siena in the 13th c. We climbed up and were rewarded with fantastic views of the crete and of the Abbey.
Monte Oliveto Maggiore
Dramatic and forbidding, the Benedictine monks who chose this spot definitely wanted to leave the world behind. Around a curve, suddenly the red brick complex looms. The moat and stronghold effect of the massive structure remind one that even here in the Middle Ages, defense was an issue. Cypresses and chapels and footpaths surround the monastery, which looks like a beautiful prison. Once inside the 15th cloister, the impression of a fortress dissolves into the serene quiet of a light-drenched courtyard. Somewhere in the complex, monks labor over the restoration of old books, or engage in concocting Flora di Monte Oliveto, an herbal liqueur used as a curative. Their other main product is honey. (we bought some of each—we should be very healthy). Behind the bordering carved arcades, the Sodoma and Signorelli frescoes of the life and miracles of San Benedetto line the inside walls. It was begun in 1313 by Giovanni Tolomei, later on called Bernardo, with the help of the Sienese nobles Patrizio Patrizi and Ambrogio Piccolomini who lived as hermits with Bernardo. Other hermits joined them over time. The new foundation followed the Benedictine Rule. Around the Abbey are grouped smaller churches, chapels, churches and later additions adorned with graceful loggias. The main gateway is surmounted by a square watch tower decorated with an early 16th century terracotta of Virgin Mary and the Holy Babe with two Angels. Along the shady paths are several Chapels built in the memory of the Saints: Blessed Bernardo's Chapel near the cave where he dwelt (rebuilt in 1760), Santa Scolastica's Chapel built by Bernardo Tolomei and the Chapel of Santa Francesca Romana, dated 1644. The grand Gothic Abbey built in the shape of a Latin cross was rebuilt inside in the late years of the 18th century. The beautiful choir stalls were carved and inlaid by Fra Giovanni da Verona from 1503 to 1505, the lectern was made by Raffaello da Brescia in 1518 and the delightful wooden Crucifix is a work of art of the 13th century. Works of art are to be seen everywhere in this Monastery but particulary in the loggia running around the "Chiostro Grande" (larger cloister) where the walls are frescoed with 36 scenes from the Stories of San Benedetto da Norcia as they were told by St. Gregory. Nine of these frescoes were painted by Luca Signorelli from 1497 to 1498, the rest by Giovanni Antonio Bazzi nicknamed Sodoma from 1505 to 1508.
San Giovanni d’Asso
We will hear more of this village later. Its picturesque center (pop 931) is dominated by its castle with elegant Gothic 2 light windows. Belonging to the Scialenea family in the 12th c, it was subsequently a grange of Santa Maria delle Scola (the ospidale in Siena). In the center is the 14th c churchof San Giovanni Battista, while in the lower part of the village, surrounded by cypresses, is the church of San Pietro in Villori
Pienza—the first Renaissance town
Now we journey into the high Renaissance in Pienza. Pienza is an architectural expression of the humanistic world of the 15th century. A glorious experiment in town planning, it was virtually rebuilt between 1459 and 1462 by the architect known as Il Rossellino, by commission of the humanist pope Pius II (Enea Silvio Piccolomini). Corsignano (as Pienza was originally called) was Piccolimini's birthplace; after elevation to the chair of St. Peter, he decided to transform it into a model town. It is charming. The most important buildings all face onto the central Piazza Pio II: the cathedral, Palazzo Piccolomini (Rossellino's masterpiece, inspired by Palazzo Rucellai in Florence), Palazzo Comunale with its colonnaded portico and elegant tower, and Palazzo Vescovile (Episcopal Residence). A true jewel of the Renaissance—Many Renaissance artists painted their idea of the perfect city. Rossellino was the only architect who actually got the funding to build one. Pope Pius II used his money and power to remake the central square of his home village in the image of Renaissance order, proportion and grace. A papal bull has ensured that not a whit has been changed over the centuries. The piazza, bordered by the cathedral and several palaces for bishops, canons, and the Pope, is staggeringly, astonishingly beautiful. Pienza is glorious in all its parts, from the felicitous residential street along the ramparts, to the iron flag holders and cunning rings fashioned in animal shapes, where horses used to be secured. Today, no horses, and no cars either, which contributes to the silent and unified feeling of the town. The back end of Rossellino’s airy cathedral is sinking, the porous limestone beneath it giving way a little every year. We bought a hunk of pecorino wrapped in walnut leaves in one of the streets leading into the centro then had a very good lunch at Ristorante “Dal Falco”, Piazza Dante Alighieri 3, along with lots of German tourists. Jerry had Pici con funghi (handmade thick spaghetti) and faraona (guinea fowl with olives). I had gnocchi alla tartufati and a special order: peccorino all griglia con prochiutto (grilled peccorino stuffed with proschiut). We had the house red and it was a very good meal. When we left it was (surprise) raining.
San Biagio
On the 14-kilometer drive from Pienza to Montepulciano, we rounded yet another bend in the road and there, on the opposite side of the valley, nestled in quite comfortably under the lovely hill town was San Biagio, considered to be Antonio da Sangallo the Elder's masterpiece and one of the most significant structures of the Renaissance. Set just outside the southwest wall of town in a quiet pastoral location, its clean lines and harmonious structure (Greek cross with a dome) are a joy to the eye, and although it is quite small it appears to be utterly monumental. It was beautiful, but it was POURING, so we decided to skip one of the things I had been most looking forward to
Montepulciano and its Vino Nobile
When we got to Castellina in Chianti, we thought we would go to the Enoteca (wine bar) which carries La Caggia’s wines. It said open 3-7:30, but at 4:30 it was all dark. When we got back we asked Lisa (our hostest with the mostest) and she said it should have been open. Maybe we’ll try tomorrow.
Thursday, Nov. 16—Florence
Rose at 6:30 to get to Florence early. We have heard many horror stories about the hours-long wait at the Uffizzi. There’s no better way to experience the village life of Chianti than to drive along the Chiantigiana (SSN222), which cuts right across the hills from Florence to Siena, connecting with a tangle of minor roads that traverse the most unspoiled parts of the region. After a harrowing drive into the city, we found a parking place near Santa Croce, getting to the gallery about 9 (1 hour to the outskirts, 45 min to get in). We were the ONLY people there—no line at all. We bought a guidebook and were very happy we had. It was a great way to understand the art, which is displayed in chronological order, beginning in the 13th c with Giotto and going through the Renaissance to the mid 16th c. Only the Rubens room was closed and many of the paintings had been restored. I really liked the works of Perugino and bought a book of his work. The museum had been closed due to a strike when Paige and I were here in 1994, so I hadn’t seen it since 1968. It was wonderful.
We had lunch at the Trattoria le Belle Donne, on via Belle Donne, a half block up from via del Sole. Again there were no menus. Ihad a great sliced mushroom salad and pasta with tomatoes and mozzerella. Jerry had the same pasta and ossobucco. We ordered vino novello and got o bottle of the Parry we had bought in Montespertoli. After lunch we tried to find the ceramic place from Frommers. We walked and walked and found it—closed til 3:30 Then we stopped at the herbalist/perfume store where Paige and I had bought perfume. I got a bottle of Violetta del Bosca. Came home and strolled through Castellina in Chianti. Stopped at the Coop and got a bottle fo 1997 Vino Nobile de Montepulciano for dinner. Enoteca still closed
Friday, Nov. 17 North of Firenze & Mugello
For every 10 tourists who give over a day to the vineyards of Chianti, perhaps one will give a few hours to the Mugello, the lushly fertile region on the Tuscan side of the Apennine ridge separating the provinces from Emilia-Romagna. Like Chianti, this is a benign, humanized sort of landscape, with nothing that will take your breath away—but it’s easier to avoid the crowds here, even though it’s a favorite weekend hangout of the Florentine bourgeoisie. Its celebrated olive groves and vineyards are concentrated in the central Mugello basin, formed by the Sieve and its tributary valleys; elsewhere the vegetation is principally oak, pine and chestnut forest, interspersed with small resorts.S222 to Firenze S67 to Pontassieve Rufina Dicomano to Vicchio Borgo S. Lorenzo S. Piero a Sieve Here we overlooked wonderful views of Mugello, enclosed north by the green blanket of beechwood, silver firs and mountain pines from Tuscan-Emilian Apennine, south by the ramifications surrounding Florence basin; west by Vernio and Calvana mountains and east by San Benedetto and Falterona Alps (where the Arno river has its source). In the heart of this land, in the centre, in a naturalistic and important background, we find San Piero a Sieve; it is a medieval village from which the Mugello plain extends, crossed by the Sieve, a rushing tributary of the Arno river. S. Agata to Firenziolo Passo della Futo Barberino di Mugello Just outside town we had lunch at Albergo Ristorante Gualtieri, via S. Lucia 5. It was an excellent meal for 69,000L. We started with a zuppa di funghi (& garlic) that was stupendous. Then I had a mixed salad and jerry had pasta with wild boar sauce and vino rosso del casa. It was apretty ride home. We stopped at the enoteca for Badia a Coltibuono and got a 1995 and 1997 Classico and a 1999 regular for tonight. Also a plate (finally)
Saturday, Nov. 18 Leave Chianti to Casperia
We had planned to go to the white truffle festival in San Miniato, but found another in the same San Giovanni d’Asso where we had enjoyed ourselves earlier. It’s a much smaller town and directly on our route. We were (as usual) the first to arrive shortly after 10 and were disappointed that nothing was happening. Then all the “shops” opened. They were actually street-level garages turned into stores for a day—funghi, melle, meat, ceramics, herbs, herbal remedies, olive oil, wine, even elementary school projects. It was great—we bought a lot of stuff. Then we went to the local association lunch place and had crostini al tartufo, tagliatelle al tartufo, and carpaccio al tartuffo with vino novella (brought in in great demijohns on an APE truck). On to La Toretta in Casperia—it’s great, but was hard to find. This is a tiny walled city on a hill. We had a very enjoyable visit with Maureen and Robert and the other guests then went for wood oven pizza with funghi. This is a very old house restored by them—Maureen is English with 25 years in the travel business and Roberto is an architect. Their apartment is upstairs where is also the big kitche for breakfast. The lower floor is a huge great room with a roaring fireplace. The guest rooms open off this room—I think there are 6. There is an American woman and her daughter her as well as us. The room is very comfortable and the bathroom is excellent. The town is tine, walled, and suto free. Maureen said until a month or so ago, no one could find it but she has been nagging the mayor and he has finally put signs up all over pointing to Casperia. She has lots of summer guests who come just to relax.
Sunday, Nov 19 the Sabine Hills
Guess what. Il Piove—siempre! Oh well. We first visited L’Abbazia de Farfa, a famous building of the Middle Ages. We got there about 9:30 and walked around until Mass was over, about 9:45. The 12th c floor, a wild pattern of masaics, was beautiful. We couldn’t get into the library. As we were leaving, 2 tourist busses pulled up. The we headed north for 4 Franciscan sanctuaries (St. Francis had rock beds in all of them) around Rieti. The first, Fonte Colombo, was a very simple mid-15th c church where he established the rules of the order (this is the Franciscan Sinai). Lots of tourists. Next, Greccio, the Franciscan Bethlehem, where in 1223, Christmas Eve, St. Francis set up the first creche. It was a newer building, but interesting. In the old church we saw the rocky beds and the dormitario./ On the second floor is a whole collection of international nativities.
We found a great place in the country for lunch. Peppe Parco alle Noci (Sargenti S, Susanna 21, Rivodietri) with its own trout pond. We had tagliolini wit tartufo and trout (mine grilled, Jerry’s with tartuffo), a mixed salad, nice white Verdicchio e Trebbiano, noci liquer and café for 68,000L. On the way out, the owner said we might have a President by Natale (Christmas)—I had a noce gelato. Poggio Bustone was next. It was pouring and the only people around were 2 young couples having a soggy picnic under the eaves. It was very dark. The last, La Foresta, was fronted by a gorgeous vegetable garden. We were alone. We rang the bell and a very nice young man—who spoke no English—opened and gave us a guided tour of this place where St Francis and 4 friends spend 4 months (on rocky beds) in the grotto. We saw the teeny tine old church and its newer (16th c) tiny extension. Also the stone vat where the miraculous wine grew. Some nice frescos also.
When we got home, Maureen had arranged dinner for us by the fire as the only restaurant for miles around is closed on Sunday. We have ravioli with sage and butter, good bread, a nice salad and wonderful fresh sorbet of apricots and blackberries. A nice end to a great trip. On the drive back, we found a very interesting church built into the side of a mountain. We climbed up, and even I was a bit shaky on the top.
Monday, Nov. 20 Leave for home
No problem—got to the airport in plenty of time and slept part of the way home. We were a bit more comfortable on this flight.