Gail South
Italy~Sicily~October, 2004
Saturday, October 16, 2004
Left Beach Haven at 10:30 am. Got lost on the way to Paige’s to drop off Jake, but still had plenty of time to leave the truck at Vista (www.airportparkinglots.com) and get to the airport and through check-in by 3:30. Took off on time and landed in Rome early in the morning. Transferred flight and got to Palermo about 10:30. Picked up a Ford Fiesta and were on our way. Weather warm and nice. A19 along coast to Termini Imeresse, then South on S285 past Acquedotto Cornelio. Turn left (yellow sign); after 330 yards, on a bend, the Roman aqueduct comes into view on the left, its two tiers of arcades spanning the valley C River Barratina.
Caccamo
Clinging to a rocky precipice among the lower spurs of Monte San Calogero, this pretty little town, overlooked by its impressive castle, was probably founded by the Phoenicians. We stopped for lunch at the Castle Ristoranti at its base. Decent, basic food. Back through Sciara on S113 briefly, S on S643 to Collesano through Parco delle Madonie Caltavuturo toward CaltanisettaBack on S626 to Gela Called (always a challenge in Europe) our host from a bar outside Vittoria. He agreed to meet us at Marina di Ragusa. He was late, but finally showed up and led us to
Marina di Ragusa Nave House
It’s just a great location and nice and big and clean. We went to Ali’s (supermercato) to buy towels, TP, etc., as it’s not well-equipped—but what a wonderful view!! We had cold cuts and cheeses on our deck overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. No ice cube trays, so we improvised with plastic egg cartons and demitasse cups. Jerry slept well (as always). I zonked till 3 then got up and planned tomorrow’s trip. We turned the hot water on 15 minutes ahead—will do it one hour tomorrow. 386 KM
Sunday, October 17—Modica, Ispica Cave, Noto, Cava Grande, Reserve Naturale de Vendicari
Through Scicli a small town, but with some of the most stunning architecture of “Spanish” Sicily. Destroyed by the 1693 earthquake it was built anew like Ragusa, Noto and other towns in this region, and has a similar aspect of 18th c. Baroque. This is best seen in the beautiful central square, backed by the sheer hill which was the site of the medieval city up to the 14th c. Despite the obvious advantage of its setting beneath the high cliffs and by the channel of the Torrente della Cava S. Bartolomeo, the most eye-catching façade must be that of the church of S. Bartolomeo (turn right at the top of the square). Stop a while and admire the 18th c Duomo and the Palazzo Fava opposite it. The church of San Giovanni is worthwhile visiting for its oval interior and beautiful stucco work. The unusual Baroque façade of Palazzo Beneventano should also be observed.
To Modica
Built on two levels at the foot (Modica Bassa) and on the flank (Modica Alta) of a mountain spur. We walked down , down, down, like people who are coming to Beach Haven and think they’ll never get here. The Informacion was open (on Sunday!) and we got a map and climbed the MANY Baroque steps, accompanied by the apostles to St. The built-into-the-rock Chiesa Rupestre di San Nicola Inferial was closed. At St. Domenico we had a great view of the round tower of the castle, clinging to its rock, surrounded since the 18th c with its clock tower. .Below there’s a famous old pasticceria, the Antica Bonajuto, maker of strange and wonderful sweets like “mpanatigghi (empanadas filled with meat and chocolate) and a grainy dark chocolate cold-milled the way the Conquistadores learned from the Aztecs) –we looked, but couldn’t find it.
Ispica Cave
Myriad valleys and deep ravines run through the calcareous plateau of Iblei. These grooves, some of which are open, while others are sheer drops, are known in this area as "cave". he most beautiful and interesting of the countless "cave" of Eastern Sicily is undoubtedly Cava d'Ispica: a very narrow valley stretching over 13 km, crossing the territories of the towns of Modica, Ispica and Rosolini. This Cava is actually a flume, although its brook, called Pernamazzoni in its upper stretch and Busaitoni in its lower stretch, has almost invariably been dry in the past few years. This beautiful Cava, gorge-shaped, with its soft calcareous stone, in an easily defendable position close to the sea, has become one of the major rocky highlights in Sicily, with dramatic, wild views showing the remains of man's evolution across centuries, from as early as the Eneolytic age until much more recent times. It is stacked with abandoned troglodyte dwellings, small sanctuaries and necropolises. The earliest signs of human occupation in the area date from Neolithic times. The hollows studding the walls of the gorge are a natural phenomenon in karst rock, subsequently modified and adapted by humans according to their requirements. We paid 2 euros each to get in. We toured the Larderia (from the word ardeia – with abundant water) which consists of a paleo-Christian catacornb (4C-5C) lined with an impressive number of burial chambers (464). The original entrance was at one time located at the opposite end of the corridor that is now used, off which branches the “main nave” that extends 35.6m. The two lateral passageways were added later. The Church of Santa Maria (high up in the cliff on the left) and the Camposanto or Holy ground, is located the Grotte Cadute which comprises a residential complex on several levels. Holes in the ceiling and steps cut in the walls below enabled the residents to move from one level to another with the aid of poles and ropes that could be pulled up in times of danger. Opposite the entrance to the fenced area, on the far side of the main road, another road leads to the rock-hewn Church of San Nicola and the Spezieria, a little church perched on a sharp rocky outcrop. The name, corrupted from the local dialect, is linked to the mythical existence of a monk-cum-apothecary who prepared herbal remedies. The church interior is sub-divided into two parts: a nave and a misaligned chancel with three apses.
Noto is a very old town; founded in the IX century by the Siculi on "Monte Alveria". It was the centre of art and culture. Evidence has been left by various civilizations: Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, Norman, Suevian, Aragonese, Spanish, but the terrible earthquake of 1693 completely destroyed it. The eighteenth century Noto, born on the Meti seat, is the result of a skilful reconstruction that was inspired by the baroque ideals of the open town, with a regular town-planning trim made of straight and parallel streets that reach and open up on spectacular squares that constitute the clearest example of theatre-like tastes of the eighteenth century’s architecture. The grid plan ran along three east-west roads. (“The grid of streets, lined with sculptured Baroque palazzo, runs up the hill like spines on a fish) Two of these roads, Via Cavour and Corso Vittorio Emanuele, are lined with interesting buildings. Society was divided up into three sections and allocated accordingly: the nobility occupied the upper third, the clergy occupied the central section and the hoi polloi occupied the lower segment. As defined by Cesare Brandi in the "Stone garden", Noto was entirely built with a soft stone that, owing to the effect of sun rays, has gradually acquired a beautiful honey shade. Noto is the capital of eighteenth century Sicilian and European baroque, and its religious and civil monuments are the most valuable examples of talented artists of the time: Gagliardi, Sinatra, Labisi along with local skilled workers. Noto’s Baroque is a play of graceful curves, of floral interfacings, of partial views, of palaces and of gardens, of capitals and of putts which decorate the facades of churches, up to the amazing majesty of the Cathedral, of Palazzo Ducezio, of the Holy Crucifix, of the spectacular corner of the Monastery of "SS. Salvatore", and of the church of "S. Francesco", of the sumptuous church of "S. Domenico"(handsome, newly restored, the stone turning gold in the afternoon light), of the mystic "Santa Chiara", of the "Palazzo Nicolaci" with its incredible grotesque sculptures on the same street "Via Nicolaci", the street of the balconies, defined as "the most beautiful balconies of the world". The Cathedral is crowned by two fine bell towers, at the top of a majestic flight of steps (the dome and parts of the nave caved in some years ago), and the beautiful San Francisco dell’Immacolata (designed by Vincenzo Sinatra) viewed from the base of the sweeping staircase that leads upwards from the corso. Beautiful sights, next door, include the Palazzo Landolina and the Palazzo Arcivescovo (both a stone’s throw away from the cathedral), the rather run-down Palazzo Ducezio (used as the municipio) and the Palazzo Nicolaci di Villadorata (in Via Nicolaci) with its extraordinary balconies supported by rows of prone figures of females, horses and lions. Lunch outdoors at Ristorante Grigio, and a limon granite at Caffe Siciliia near the main square
Cava Grande (Cava Grande del Cassibile)
The "Grand Canyon of Sicily" is a bit of a misnomer, but an excursion to Cava Grande provides the opportunity of exploring a small and forgotten corner of the Iblei Mountain landscape, that karst range dominating the southeast part of Sicily. This itinerary off the beaten track will be of particular interest to nature-lovers. To reach the site, drive north of Noto for 19km (12 miles) on Route 287 in the direction of the town of Palazzolo Acreide. When you reach the village of Villa Vela, with its Art Nouveau villas, you will be near the gorge's site. A little secondary road is signposted to Cava Grande. Go to the end of the road where there is a car park with a stunning panoramic vista over the Cava Grande gorge: a canyon 250m (820 ft.) deep and some 10km (6 1/4 miles) long plunging down between impressively tall and sheer limestone cliffs. Along the valley bottom winds the river, which opens out intermittently to make a succession of tiny lakes, accessible by a path leading down into the gorge. Slightly to the left, a cave may be seen excavated from the rock: this is the so-called Grotta dei Briganti (Bandits Cave), just one of the many rock-hewn dwellings in this settlement, and another example of the type so commonly found throughout the rocky landscape of southeast Sicily. It is thought that this particular cave was used as a tannery. The ancients used the gorge as a burial ground, and thousands of tombs have been discovered here, dating from the 11th to the 9th century B.C. The most important artifacts were removed and taken to Syracuse museums. It was just too hot for us to attempt the descent (and the return) S287 back to Noto, then S19 to Capo Passero. A road to the left leads to Eloro The site was closed, and it appears that most of the findings have been moved to museums. To the north of Helorus, and best seen from the main rod by the junction, is a strange monumental column known as the Pizzuta. This was erected in the 3rd c. BC as a memorial to a family interred beneath it.
Return to S19, continue S for 4.5km/3mi and then turn left to the Riserva Naturale di Vendicari
The Vendicari Nature Reserve was created in 1984, but did not become operational until 1989. It consists of a narrow strip of marshy coastline covering 1418 acres and provides a rare, and now completely protected habitat for migratory species and a highly peculiar kind of sand-loving Mediterranean vegetation. The large stretch of swamp, a hostile environment in many ways because of high salinity levels, has evolved a very unusual ecosystem that continues to attract vast numbers of birds passing through the area on migration. During the autumn months, it is common to see a variety of waders: grey heron, little egret, white and black stork, greater flamingo.. As regards the flora of the area, Vendicari consists essentially of rock and sand: the rocky subsoil mainly found in the north of the reserve, near Pantano Piccolo, supports garrigue-type vegetation with cushions of thyme and thorny burnet (Sarcopoterium spinosum). Near Pantano Roveto, on the other hand, where sand predominates, sand-loving perennials grow among the maquis plants such as prickly juniper (Juniperus oxycedrus) and rosemary. You could really smell the herbs. And we saw lots of flamingos on their way to Africa!! Dinner at the Hotel Andrea Doria on the waterfront at Marina di Raguse—very nice—lots of octopi! 256 KM
Monday, October 18 Siracusa
Left at 9 and got to Siracusa at 10:30—pretty day with a promise of much heat. The museum and catacombs were closed. We were disappointed, but went on to the Greek and Roman ruins. Walking tour of SyracuseOrtygiaWe parked near the very vibrant morning Mercato. Excellent Sicilian produce and an active early morning fish market give this popular venue its commendable reputation. To the east of this covered market is a maze of narrow alleys that was once part of the Saracen Kasbah.
Starting point: Piazza Pancali. This square lies to the east of the Ponte Nuovo, the bridge connecting Ortygia with the mainland. In the southeast corner of the square are the remains of the Temple of Apollo. This temple, which lies below the level of the square, was excavated in 1938. It is one of the oldest Doric temples in Sicily, corresponding in date to the Olympieion, outside the city, and the earliest of the temples at Selinunte (mid 6th c BC). Its plan is peripteral and hexastyle (6 x 17 columns) with a double colonnade at the front. All that remains now is the stereobate, partly rebuilt, two of the columns with part of the architrave, fragments of other columns and part of the south wall of the cella. Before excavation, this temple was covered by buildings of the Spanish period, and before that the Normans used it as a church. The arched opening in the cella wall, some height above the original floor of the temple, is a survival of that Norman conversion.
From the Piazza Pancali follow the Corso G. Matteoti to the Piazza Archimede, the central square of the old city. The fountain in the middle is 20th c, but has the spirit of the Renaissance, depicting that legendary moment when the nymph Arethusa was changed into a spring. The buildings of the square, though commercial, have interesting details. The Palazzo Lanza on the south side (#29) is 15th c, with a delicate double window of the period. The Banca d’Italia on the west side has a 15th c staircase in its courtyard, in the Spanish Catalan style.
From the northeast corner of the square the Via Montalto leads to one of the saddest sights in old Syracuse: the rapidly crumbling Palazzo Montalto. This palace, built in 1397, is one of the few surviving examples of the Chiaramonte style of architecture in Sicily. It is little more than an echo of the grander palaces build by the Chiaramonte family and their followers elsewhere in Sicily earlier in the 14th c, but the two elegant windows on the north side, one double-arched, one triple-arched, preserve the essence of the Sicilian Gothic. Temporary buttresses at the front and rear now prop up what remains of this palace. The buildings to the east have disappeared and it is possible from this side to see the arcaded gallery at the first floor level, which at one time must have overlooked a courtyard. While work is in progress on restoring other buildings of this period in Ortygia it is regrettable that this old palace has not received more immediate attention. From the Piazza Archimede the tour continues along the Via Roma. A right turn at the Via Minerva leads to the Piazza Duomo, along the north side of the cathedral. This is one of Sicily’s most pleasant squares, not only for its unaccustomed and refreshing quietness: the special virtue of its location, tucked away in the corner of an island.
Dominating the square is the Baroque front of the Cathedral (Santa Maria delle Colonne). This is undoubtedly Sicily’s most unusual building, for the simple reason that is combines in the one structure the most important temple of the ancient city with the most important church of the modern. Visitors passing along the Via Minerva will already have noticed the Doric columns buried in the north wall of the cathedral. These belong to the Temple of Athena, built here by Gelon, the first tyrant of Syracuse in the 5th c BC. This temple (erected on the site of an earlier, archaic, temple) was built in celebration of the Greek victory over the Carthaginians at Himera, and was dedicated to Athena in her role of the Warrior Goddess. Her statue adorned the roof, and the temple was elsewhere lavishly decorated. Details of this decoration come to us from Cicero in the record of his attack upon the Roman praetor Verres, who pillaged and defaced the temple in the 1st c BC. Before this plunder the temple was one of the most magnificent in the ancient world, with doors of ivory and gold and a series of wall paintings inside depicting the victories of Agathocles over the Carthaginians. There were also paintings of the tyrants and kings of Syracuse, which one can only wish had survived. Of the temple itself, enough has survived to give an idea of its form. The temple was of the traditional Doric style, with 6 x 14 columns. The colonnades of the peristyle have disappeared at the east and wests ends but those on the north and south are largely intake, embedded in the walls of the cathedral. The architrave on the north colonnade (Via Minerva) is topped by a decorative Norman crenellation. The columns still rest on the three-stepped stylobate of the ancient temple. Like the neighboring Temple of Apollo, the Temple of Athena was converted into a church in the Byzantine period. In 640 AD Bishop Zosimus transferred the cathedral here from its original site in Achradina. The Normans made further alterations, and in the 18th c, after the destructive earthquake of 1693, the cathedral was rebuild in the Baroque style. The front is impressive, with fine statues by Marabitti. Flanking the steps are St. Peter and St. Paul; on the façade, on either side of the Madonna, are St. Marcian, first Bishop of Syracuse, and St. Lucy, the city’s patron saint. Entering the cathedral one can easily grasp the form of the ancient temple. The nave is in fact the original cella, the walls of which have been pierced by eight arched openings to connect the nave with the aisles. At the west end, set into the wall on either side of the entrance, are two of the columns of the opisthodomos (rear vestibule) of the ancient temple. The columns of the peristyle can be seen in the aisles; on the north side, embedded in the walls of the cathedral; on the south side, separating the chapels from the south aisle. The effect of the various earthquakes that have struck Syracuse can be seen in these columns, some of which are shattered and out of alignment. South aisle--The first chapel (baptistery) contains a Norman font cut from and antique marble with a Greek inscription, resting on seven bronze lions. The mosaic vestiges on the wall behind it, in the Cosmatesque style, are also a relic of the Norman church. Next is the Cappella di S. Lucia, with bronze gates by Spagnuolo (1605). In this chapel is a silver statue of St. Lucy (1599). The casket on which it stands (1610) and the altarpiece (1781) are also of silver (the statue, which is much venerated, is on show only a few days each year). The third and largest chapel, closed by 19th c wrought-iron gates of special delicacy, is the Cappella del SS. Sacramento. This contains an altar with a marble relief of the Last Supper by Fil. Valle (1762) and above it a polychrome marble tabernacle (1752) by the Neapolitan architect Vanvitelli. At the end of the aisle is the Cappella del Crocifisso whose empty niches (north and south walls) once contained paintings attributed to Antonello da Messina (St. Zosimus) and his school (St. Marcian). Sadly these have lately been removed for safekeeping. A door on the right leads to the Sacristy of the Chapel, from which a further door (left) leads on to the Sacristy of the Church. This contains fine carved stalls of the 15th c. There is at present no access to the Treasury. The choir retains its Baroque decoration, stripped from the body of the church. The altar incorporates part of the entabulature of the ancient temple. North aisle—The apse at the end of this aisle, to the left of the choir, is the only relic of the Byzantine church. In it stands a Madonna delle Neve (of the Snow) by Antonello Gagini (1512). This sculptor is represented by another statue in the aisle itself. St. Lucy (between the 4th and 5th columns). Other statues in this aisle are also by Gagini. The classical bareness of this cathedral (ignoring the vestiges of Baroque) makes I one of the most appealing religious buildings in Sicily.
Municipio
Next to the cathedral, on the opposite side of Via Minerva, are the city’s municipal offices, housed in the building of the old cathedral seminary. The building stands on the site of an Ionic temple—a rarity in Sicily. On either side of the entrance there is an exhibition of fragments from the temple, with a reconstruction of capitals and columns. The foundation of the temple may be seen in the basement of the building, with relics of the earliest settlement (8th c BC). The temple, which had 6 x 14 columns, was built c 530 BC, 50 years before the Temple of Athena. The other buildings in the Piazza Duomo (going clockwise around the square) are:
next to the cathedral, Palazzo Arcivescoville (Archbishop’s Palace). The lower two stories date from 1618, the third storey from 1751. The building contains a library of classical and medieval manuscripts.
Across the Via S. Lucia, in the southeast corner of the square, is the church of S. Lucia alla Badia, built after the 1693 earthquake in the Baroque style.
Opposite the Archbishop’s Palace is the former museum building, which now houses a single collection: the Museo Numismatico.
Opposite the Municipio is the Palazzo Beneventano del Bosco, rebuilt in 1775. This fine building, with its elegant inner courtyard and pavilion, rounds off a charming square, which must have looked much the same 200 years ago.
Palazzo Migliaccio~This 15th c building lies on the right of the Via Picherale, going south from the Piazza Duomo. It was incorporated in the old Hotel des Etrangers, but retains a fine balcony of marble decorates with chevrons of black lava.
The Via Picherale leads down to the Fonte Aretusa(Fountain of Arethusa), one of the most romantic diversions of a tour of old Syracuse. The romance lays not so much in the fountain itself, which is now nothing more than a placid pool enclosed by stonewalls, but in the legend attached to it. The ancients, who first recorded this freshwater spring, issuing mysteriously from a grotto at the tip of Ortygia, found a home for it in legend. The most popular version was that a nymph, Arethusa, pursued by the river-god Alpheus in the Peloponnese, leapt into the sea and was changed into a spring by the goddess Artemis. To pursue her, Alpheus in turn changed into a river, and his waters crossed the sea to Ortygia to mingle with those of Arethusa. This legend was always very popular with the Greek colonists of Syracuse, for the associations it created with the mother country. The goddess they had transported with them to Syracuse reigned supreme as Artemis Arethuse. The fountain had not only an emotional but also a practical significance for the Syracusans. During the many prolonged sieges that the city endured, the fountain provided a vital supply of fresh water for the defenders. We also saw papyrus growing in the water.
Had a nice outdoor lunch at the Epicurian Garden. Penna alla Norma (w tomato, eggplant and basil sauce) for me and grilled squid for Jerry.
From the Piazza Svevia, in front of the barracks that close off the approach to the castle, the Via Salomone and the Via San Martino lead north to the church of S. Martino, commemorating the 6th c Bishop of Syracuse. This is one of the oldest churches in Syracuse, originally of the early Christian basilican style but rebuilt in the 14th c. with a Gothic doorway and rose window. Restoration of the church, begun in 1917, was completed in 1961.
In the adjoining Via Capodieci is the Palazzo Bellomo, an interesting if rather sever building that combines the architecture of two periods. The lower and older part—considerably restored—belongs to the first half of the 13th c (Frederick II) and the upper part, with its Catalan-0Gothic windows is 15th c. Inside the courtyard is similarly mixed in style, preserving part of its 13th c arcading and a later Catalan stairway.
The portico and the first-floor loggia are of the same period as the stairway In the Via San Pietro, off the Via Marabella to the north (entered by the Piazzetta del Carmine), where stands the very early church of S. Pietro. This church is thought to have been built by Germanus, one of the first Bishops of Syracuse, in the late 4th c. The evidence is in its basicilcan form, revealed after careful study and excavation, and in the tradition which records that Germanus built four churches within the first century of official Christianity. Throughout its long history the church has undergone many alterations. First encountered is the elaborate entrance on the north side, added in the 14th c. Inside one can see the form of the original basilica with its three aisles separated by arches and, on the sidewalls, corresponding blind arches. The dividing arches have been greatly modified and the large central openings, which make a kind of crossing between the north door and the 14th c south chapel, each replace a pair of smaller arches. The slight point in these larger arches show the Gothic influence. It will be noticed that the orientation of the church differs from the norm, with the apses at the west end. In the Byzantine period this orientation was reversed, with the altars moved to the east into a specially constructed apse that has now disappeared. The Via Resalibera, adjoining (turn left), leads back to the Piazza Pancali and the completion of the tour. We decided to drive out to the Castello Eurialo and enjoyed it very much. This defensive reinforcement was built by Dionysius the Elder. In addition to fortifying Ortygia, the able strategist decided to build a wall around the entire settlement, encompassing the districts of Tyche and Neapolis, which, until then, had stood outside the city limits and had therefore been easy prey for attack. With this in mind, he ordered the construction of the imposing Walls of Dionysius across the high plateau enclosing the north side of the town. The fortification comprised two parallel walls built of rectangular limestone blocks, infilled with rubble. The enclosure reached 33 ft in height and 10 ft in width. The whole thing is like a giant, impenetrable maze.
Stopped at Alis and got pork chops for a supper “en casa” 230 KM
Tuesday, October 19 Caltagrione, Gli Iblei Tour
Another sunny warm day
Caltagirone
Its commanding site—the present town is built over three hills—brought settlement to C. as far back as the Neolithic period; rock-cut tombs discovered locally are similar to those at the vast necropolis of Pantalica. Its name and traditional nicknames are descriptive of the town and its history. Kalat and gerund are Arabic for “castle” and “caves”. “Regina dei Monti” and “Faenza di Sicilia” are the nicknames, the first referring to the site of the town, the second to its most famous industry, ceramics. The tradition began with Sicel pottery and refined, in the time of the Arabs, into the beautiful majolica that can be seen in the form of tiles and other ornamentation on the buildings of the town. The old parts of C. owe their 18th c. character to the earthquake; many of th3 fine buildings of this period were subsequently lost in the heavy bombing of WWII. At the centre of the town is the Piazza Umberto I, with the 18th c. Banco de Sicilia building, the 19th c. Cathedral and (adjacent) the Corte Capitaniale with a fine 17th c. façade by the Gagini. To the east is the Palazzo Municipio, dominated by the 19th c. Baroque-style Palazzo Municipio. From here the Via Luigi Sturzo leads past the churches of the Rosario and Salvatore (both containing sculpture by the Gagini) to the church of S. Giorgio, one of the first buildings to be reconstructed after the 1693 earthquake. It contains a 15th c. Flemish painting of the Trinity, believed to be the work of Roger van der Weyden. Returning to the Piazza Municipio, we climed up a great flight of steps (Scala della S. Maria del Monte to the church of that name. This is one of the hills of C.--worth the climb for the view. After 142 lava steps, we stopped at a shop (Keramos) and bought a great wall ceramic Sicily logo, a Trinakria. Its three legs represent the triangular shape of the island, and its center is either a Medusa with snakes or a sun with rays.
Gli Iblei Tour
The southeastern corner of Sicily is dominated by the Iblei mountains, posted here almost as if to defend the area around Ragusa. The little mountain villages perched on the ridges or scattered among the woods and valleys have retained their rural aspect, in close harmony with the land that has sustained them for centuries. We got lost many, many times on the winding roads. The mountains are beautiful, green on one side and chalky on the other. This is wine country and vines are ubiquitous. It’s only been a few years since Sicilian wines have become desirable, and they are making much effort to increase quality and production. Most of the vines are now covered in some kind of plastic netting.GrammicheleLicodia EubeaSantuario di Gulfi (under renovation)Chiaramonte GulfiWe had lunch here at Majore, a 100 year old restaurant specializing in pork. We had antipasto of prosciutto and olives, pork chop stuffed w sausage, grilled pork steak, and ravioli w pork sauce. GiarratanaPalazzolo Acreide 283 KM
Drystone Walling
An ever-present reminder of human impact on the rural landscape are the ribbons of drystone walling that extend in all directions: small, low-lying yet resistant courses of stone, no more than a meter high, enclose the cultivated fields. Interestingly, the very nature of these walls reflects the geological formation of the Iblei. For, just as with the bed rock, the surface layer of limestone is impermeable: where this layer is damaged by erosion or fracture, water will penetrate through the underlying layers causing them to crumble and disintegrate into lumps; in the most extreme cases, this can produce whole canyons. The broken lumps of rock litter the ground, requiring farmers to remove them before they can sow their fields; the walls are conceived as a way of re-using the stones so laboriously gathered which, instead of being heaped in a pile, are employed as building materials. However, this is no haphazard pastime but a skilled art learned from master-craftsmen known in the vernacular as mastri ri mura a siccu. The walls segregate different land holdings and enable flocks to graze unsupervised; they also support terraced land. Another interesting crop is the Prickly Pear Cactus, the fruits of which are harvested and sold in the markets. The make a refreshing drink, a liqueur, and a sauce called mostardo.272 KM
Wednesday, October 20 Villa Romana del Casale & Morgantina
Lots of wind in the night and a rude awakening by someone in a truck—we will lock the gate from now on.
Villa Romana del Casale (best in early morning)
Absolutely wonderful. Best mosaics we’ve ever seen. This luxurious villa is one of Sicily’s most remarkable sights. Although it was occupied until the 12th c., the villa lay largely undiscovered until the 1950’s. It was built between the 3rd & 4th c. AD for an unknown patron. Educated guesses identify the owner as Maximian, one of Rome’s wealthiest citizens and co-emperors. However, what is incontestable is the extraordinary legacy of colored mosaics, 3500 m2 (4180 square yards) in total, that “carpet” the floors and give us a great insight into Roman life, costumes, and customs over 1700 years ago. Unfortunately the dust and dirt which blow in through the permanently open doors do little justice to their wonderful colors, but there are fine photos in the numerous guide books on sale outside the villa. The visit begins in the thermae (bathing area) and progresses through the octagonal frigidarium and into the oval Sala del Circo (which was probably used as a gymnasium). There are about a dozen little rooms through which one passes—mostly by way of an elevated ramp so that the mosaics are protected—until you reach the extraordinary Sala delle Dieci Ragazze, which never fails to amuse. Here is a mosaic portraying 10 girls working out as one would expect in a modern-day gym—the notion that the bikini was invented on the French Riviera is proved a myth. Nearby the Sala della Piccola Caccia is another marvelous scene of hunters and their prey. One picture illustrates a heavy boar being transported in a net while a hunting dog is attacking it and the hunter is trying to protect his prey by fending off the dog with a spear. The 64m (215 ft) Ambulacro della Grande Caccia is an indulgence of fabulous mosaic work. It is surely one of the most spectacular ever found in the Roman world. It shows a series of hunting scenes and depicts an obvious portrait of a dignitary, possible Maximian, flanked by two guards. There are galleys, exotic fish, African beasts and a veritable array of wild animals all accomplished with a remarkable accuracy. There are many more interesting rooms including the triclinium, with its, and a room of erotic portrayals.
Skipped Piazza Amerina for a fabulous meal
Restaurant—Al Fogher, strada Statale 117 bis; Mosaici da Battiato, near Villa Casale—We stuffed ourselves: antipasto (eggplant and fish napoleon for me and rabbit pate with pistachios for Jerry); primi of macaroni w lamb ragout and spaghetti w clam sauce; secondi op stuffed pulpo and breast of duck with a good Sicil9ian white—Fazio SB 2003.
Morgantina Very much work in progress and very hot day.
Something of a disappointment after a wonderful morning. This Greek town is a fascinating site (open mornings and afternoons) and it is enhanced by its beautiful location, a profusion of wild flowers and the fact that not too many visitors tramp around the ruins. Its heyday was in the 2nd c. BC. There is an agora, a small theatre, a public granary (beside which is a covered brick kiln), remains of a sanctuary and a temple and, on the eastern hillside above the commercial centre of the Greek town, the remains of an early Siculi settlement (dating ca. 1000BC). The Greeks sited their acropolis on this and you’ll find the remains of mosaics (the oldest know in the Hellenistic world) in the so-called Casa di Ganimede, while the Casa del Capitello Dorico is named for the Doric column that has survived the house.
Thursday, October 21 Etna
Because of the fertile quality of the volcanic soil, the area around Mount Etna supports rich vegetation. Citrus groves abound amongst the recently planted walnuts, cherries, pistachios, almonds and vineyards. Deciduous oak forests, chestnuts, and beeches interspersed with brilliant broom characterize the higher slopes, giving way, at a greater altitude, to the vast pine forests.
We left at 8:15 and were there in less than 2 hours—very good time. Snow-capped Mount Etna peaks at 10,900 ft and is one of the most active and dangerous volcanoes in the world. Over 30 serious eruptions have taken place over the last two centuries. Because of the volcano’s nigh-unpredictable nature, routes to the summit are constantly subject to change. In 1987, some 123,500 acres of the mountain and its foothills were declared a national park, known as Parco Nazionale dell’Etna, in order to protect its unique flora and to prevent the ever-encroaching development on its eastern flanks. The town of Nicolosi, 6 mi from Catania, is the position of access from the south side of the mountain. It is also the way to the Rifugio Sapienza (the only place where we saw many tourists), which is the starting point for guided visits, via cable car, to reach the last 110 yards above the Torre del Filosofo and journey to a point near the central crater (we skipped the cable car—we had lots of good views of the steam just driving around. We also saw a house destroyed in the not too distant past.
Started to try for the museum in Siracusa, but decided we wouldn’t make it before closing, so we detoured to a small fishing village, Brucoli, on the coast. There was a deserted castle with a great view of Mt. Etna and the harbor Had a great lunch overlooking the fishing boats in a cove in Brucoli—four courses for 25 euros. Good white Donnafugate wine. Damaskino fish over chilled caponaota; risotto w clams, mussels, shrimps and calamari; small cake topped w ricotta and chocolate. We watched a man snorkeling outside; then he speared a fish, brought it into the restarurant, weighed it and got paid—talk about fresh!!
Followed a scenic route through the mountains: Lentini, Brochere, Vizzini and Monterosso Almo (with its very Baroque church of San Giovanni in the upper town and Santirairo de Maria Santissima Addolorata in the lower), & Girratana. Bougth six bottles of the very special olive oil to take home.483 KM
Friday, October 22
Another nice day—we really have been lucky with the weather—October is supposed to be the rainiest month. Got to Donnafugatta just as is opened at 9 am. Unfortunately, the gardens are being restored and were closed to visitors, but we enjoyed a tour of the house. Castello di Donnafugatta: the oldest part dates back to the 17th c when the fiefdom was acquired by Vncenzo Arezzo La Rocca. It was altered up to the early 20th c. An elegant Venetian Gothic loggia dominates the central section of the man façade. The trefoil arches become a recurrent motif repeated in the two-light windows throughout. The rooms march around a central piazza flowing into o9ne another (although there used to be a narrow corridor so that you didn’t have to go through everybody’s room to get out). They are grandly painted and wallpapered.
Ragusa
Found our way into Ragusa and negotiated a parking place in Liberty Plaza—then we WALKED—Walking tour (also pp93 plus map)—Starting point: (Park here + Info) Ponte Nuovo. This graceful bridge spans the gorge of the Torrente S. Domenica on the south side of Ragusa, on the way into the town (look for Info on left). Beneath it is a garden and sports stadium, and the entrance to the museum (skip). From the Ponte Nuovo the broad Via Roma, with its shops and pavement cafes, leads north. A right turn at the Corso Vittorio Veneto leads into the Piazza S. Giovanni, dominated by the huge and imposing façade of the Cathedral (S. Giovanni Battista) built 1706-60. This façade has all the ingredients of the 18th c. Baroque of Sicily’s deep south: Corinthian columns, statues, cornices and volutes. The whole effect is dramatized by the location of the cathedral, on a balustraded terrace above the level of the square.
From the northeast corner of the square the Corso Italia runs eastwards, past the modern PO, to the Via 24 Maggio, where we started down the steps to the old town. Near the top of the steps is the church of S. Maria delle Scale. Originally 15th c. this attractive little church was reconstructed after the earthquake. Part of the portal of the original building was restored, and some of the internal architecture. From the terrace of the church one can enjoy a superb view of Ragusa Ibla on its winding spur, the closely packed and irregular buildings making their own dramatic landscape. Descending to the old town, Ibla’s essential charm can be seen in the architecture of its many churches, which rose up after the earthquake of 1693: the Baroque expression is given full range in many interpretations. At the foot of the old town, the Via del Mercato climbs to the summit. As if guarding the entrance stands the statue of San Francisco di Paola set against a corner of Palazzo Cosentini, which has beautiful balconies and brackets carved with caricatured figures and masks. The most beautiful balcony faces upward. Its corbels attributed to the grand master sculptor Pietro Cultraro has sculptures of nymphs carrying cornucopias and in the lower part are anthromorphic beings holding slimy creatures between their teeth. Their intentions could be to condemn slanderers and backbiters. After 500m, a right turn (Largo Camerina and Via Conte Cabrera) leads to the Piazza Duomo. This square offers the best approach to the majestic golden façade of the church of S.Giorgio. (It was under restoration and covered in green netting, but we did manage to get inside). Completed in 1775 (architect Rosario Gagliardi) this church is the ultimate achievement of the Baroque in southern Sicily, the rhythms of the slightly curved, subtly receding façade and the exuberant, but not too elaborate ornaments fusing to create a superbly graceful effect.
Excellent lunch at Locanda Don Serafina, Via orfanortofio 35, a dining room housed in the beautifully converted stables of an aristocratic mansion. Jerry had tuna as an appetizer and also as an entrée (a mistake, he says) and I had an eggplant and sausage soufflé and than a lasagna w ricotta. Very good—also a Planata Alastra chardonnery 2003 which was superb. Back to Marina di Ragusa about 3:30. Stopped for a gelato. Jerry took a nap. Tomorrow we move to Franca’s cottage. 94KM
Saturday, October 23 to Agriegento and the Valle dei Templi to Sciacca & Franca’s Cottage
Up the coast through Casuzze to Camarina and the Necropolis there to Scoglitti and then on to
Agrigento & Valle dei Templi
Rising above the olive trees and yellow broom, the 10 temples that were constructed between the 6th and 5th c. BC have largely subsided into ruins. The cause was probably a mixture of seismic activity and Christian destruction. However, the magnificent Tempio della Concordia escaped destruction, because it was converted into a church in the 6th c. Some of the stone was purloined for later buildings and what is left today is largely ruins in a magnificent field of flowers and trees. Major temples are along Via Sacra. The Tempio d’Ercole is the oldest of the Doric buildings. Only a few columns stand above the crumbling stone ruins and these were re-erected in the 1920’s by Englishman Alexander Hardcastle who took much interest in the excavation of Agrigento. It is hard to visualize this temple, but there is something appealing in its solitary columns. Then we walked through the countryside, passing the Catacombs, to the very wonderful museum.Nearby is the Tempio di Giove, which is an unfinished Doric temple that stands at 37x17.5 yards. It would have been one of the ancient world’s largest temples. Its construction called for 38 columns—14 located along the long walls and seven along the shorter ones—rounded on the exterior, flat on the interior and joined together to form a corrugated wall. In between these 38, atlantes (or telamones, giant figures) were destined to be erected. A replica of the only surviving telamon lies on his back as it was found on the site. The word derives from the Greek, meaning a support, and in the museum you can see the original giant and the ways archaeologists believe they were used Had a hard time, but finally found the Scala dei Turchi**--this impressive white rock (made of marl, a mixture of clay and limestone smoothed by erosion) is shaped into a number of steps which slope gently towards the sea. The other side has been more obviously shaped by the wind and the sea, forming a series of narrow, winding, wave-like formations. The name of the rock refers to the local legend that recounts how Saracen pirates once scaled the rock after having anchored their ships in the bay.
Finally found a place for lunch in Siciliana Marina. La Scogliera had a nice terrace overlooking the Mare Mediterraneo. Great shrimp dishes with pasta and a white wine—Forti Terre de Sicilia. Had a hard time meeting up with Franca, but we did and the cottage is lovely and well-equipped with a glorious view. Went to the supermercato. 244KM
Sunday, October 24 Towards Monti Sicani and the Hills around Naro
Long day of driving through very pretty, rugged country. Lots of huge, rocky mountains. Everyone is picking olives and taking them to be pressed at their local place.
Vulcanelli di Macalube
The hill is dotted with mud cones (called vulcanelli because of the cold, whitish slime they expel.) This process is a sedimentary, gaseous volcanic phenomenon in which the pressure of methane bubbles forces a mix of clay sediments and water to the surface.Sant’Angelo Muxaro and the Grotta del Principe. Sican tombs were found in 1932 on the south and west sides of this hill on which this village stands. The route to the village, through the Valley of the Platani, is very beautiful. The tombs are cut out of the rock, and in some of those higher up and later in date (8th-5th c BC) are “beehive” in form. The largest of these, known as the Tomba del Principe, was converted by the Byzantines into a chapel, known as the Grotta di S. Angelo (very creepy).
At the entrance to Bivona was an interesting childrens’ park In the town is a lovely Arabo-Norman archway and the Palazzo Marchese Greco with fine, but damaged facades ornamented with wrought iron balconies and elegant Baroque stonework. The cornices of the windows are decorated with bunches of grapes and other fruits and flowers.Castronuovo di Sicilia w magnificent panorama, Chiesa Madre delle Santissima Trinita, and very difficult streets.Missed a turn and drove on a white “secondary” road to Lercara Friddi, where we had lunch in a real Sicilian restaurant. Antipasto buffet (w delicious grilled eggplant) primi (lasagna), secondi (grilled pork cutlet, veal cutlet, sausage, and salad), bread, fruit and homemade pastries, wine and water for 15 euros.
Palazzo Adriano with Greek Byzantine and Catholic churches.North of Bisquino to the 17th c Sanctuary of Madonna del Balzo where 3 ladies were in the sanctuary, so we got to see it: very Baroque and pretty. Also an amazing view. Caltabellotta—very beautiful and winding road up 3000 feet. Its name is from the Arabic meaning Fortress of the Oaks. The road home had absolutely wonderful views. 322 Km
Monday, October 25 Selinunte, Castlevetrano & Segesta
Sciacca
Town noted as a center for thermal cures. The town’s old buildings show a great variety of styles. The Corso V Emmanuele leads east to the large Piazza Scandaliato, open on the south side to the sea. The street runs to the right of the Duomo, past the 15th-17th c Palazzo Arone Tagliavia, its fine castellated frontage accommodating three pointed entrances and, above the central arch, a lovely three-light Gothic window. A little further on the left sits the 19c Imperial style Palazzo San Giacomo (or Tagliavia), with its south-facing façade graced with four sphinz-like herms. From the Viale della Vittoria the second turning on the left leads to the church of S. Maria di Valverde or delle Giummare, originally Norman but entirely restored in the 16th c in the Catalan-Gothic style. The rather severe battlements contrast oddly with the Baroque portal (18th c). The nun in charge loved us and talked and talked (she thought I understood Italian), then gave me a prayer card, a rosary, and a kis on each cheek—hers were as soft as velvet. A fine medieval palace, in the Corso Vittorio Emanuele to the north, is the Palazzo Steripinto. This building, with its unusual and swallowtail battlements is 15th c. To the right is the church of S. Margherita (1342) with a Gothic west door and—on the north side—a later portal (16th c). This beautiful door facing the Via F. Incisa is by the great Renaissance sculptor Francesco Laurana (in the lunette, St. Margaret and Angels). The black and white floor tiles made me dizzy.
Mazara del Vallo
An important harbor under the Phoenicians, a busy port under the Greeks and an active trading post for the Africans, M. has a long history and a colorful profile. Even today many of its inhabitants are Tunisian by origin and the Tunisian district just behind the fishing port, is an interesting place to explore. For a pleasant stroll along the seafront, head for the Lungomare Mazzini. We had an excellent lunch at Al Pesciolino d’Oro right on the beach. Shared an antipasto of misto da mare. J had spaghetti w clams, shrimp and tomatoes, and I had kuskus w fish broth; then I paicked a fish from the plate and they grilled it and J had a plate of spada, stuffed pulpa head and little red fish. Selinunte —Largely untouched Greek remains protrude from a blanket of weeds and flowers. Founded in the 7th c BC by the inhabitants of Megara Hyblaea, and basking in prosperity for two centuries, the city of S. spreads out along the coast. It covers a large area, so be prepared to walk if you want to see it all. The name derives from the Greek word selinon (wild celery), which grows profusely here. The heyday for S. was in the 5th c BC, when the city expanded and was laid out in an extensive rectilinear form. From this illustrious era we now se the Templi Orientali, a series of fragmented temples identified only by letters. Doric Temple E was probably dedicated to Hera, the ruined and smaller Temple F was possible dedicated to Athena, while the huge Temple G may have been dedicated to Jupiter, but it is not known whether or not this impressive building was ever completed. The Acropolis, a kilometer away beyond where the port used to be, houses various temples (Temple A and O) constructed in the early part of the 5th c BC. Temple C, on the highest point of the hill, is seemingly the oldest of all, dating from the early 6th c BC, and probably dedicated to Apollo.
Cave di Cusa
An unusual and interesting side trip leads to the ancient quarries from which the stone for building Selnunte was hewn. It is a wild spot where plants, trees and birdsong have replaced the toil of man and it has been left in the same state since work was interrupted 2500 years ago. No one really knows why these quarries were abandoned. We can see that Temple G was constructed with this stone and we can imagine that the carved stone drums still awaiting transport were destined for this same temple. There is a lot to learn about the ingenuity of a people who had yet to invent machines to facilitate the technique of stone masonry.185 KM
Tuesday, October 26 Via di Sale, Nubia, Erice
La Via del Sale
The road from Marsala to Trapani skirts round the edge of the lagoon and the island of Mozia providing fine views of the local salt works: panels of mirror-like water, framed by thin strips of earth, synchronize to form an irregular and multicolored scent. In places, the profile of a windmill may be seen, a reminder of times past when they provided the main means of pumping the water and grinding the salt. Low, square houses decorate the hot and dusty panorama and all is reminiscent of Africa. This land is perfect salt mining country. The combination of heat and evaporation ensures that the saline waters soon shed their moisture and leave behind crystals of salt. Windmills, heaps of dirty salt protected by stacked tiles and the rectangular pans all remain as testament to a national industry that was once far more esteemed, controlling much of the European salt trade. Other man-made features of the landscape are the baglie (fortified buildings previously used as wine distilleries and cellars). In between, along the saline shores, wild duck sand herons are abundant.
Nubia Museo del Sale di Nubia-- Le saline (salt pans)
Mozia
Took a boat to the island (3 euro each), and spent a nice hour wandering around. This is the first Phoenician settlement we’ve seen (8th c BC). Walked all the way around the island and saw the Cothon (man-made harbor), the Casa dei mosaici, with black and white mosaics made from pebbles (used before they learned about tessellation. Also lots of fortification remains. Also snails.
On to Erice
One of the most beautifully situated towns in Sicily, E. boasts a tiny population of 350. But what views these inhabitants enjoy!! E. is perched at 2500 feet on the summit of a rocky outcrop, with an endless expanse of deep blue sea is at its feet. The scenic but almost frighteningly steep and curvy road gives an eagle’s eye view of the salt pans laid out like a mosaic on the dark blue sea. (They appear to be constructing a funicular or cable car of some sort which would make a great tourist attraction). Yellow cliffs curve up the coast to the northernmost corner of Sicily. The town has experienced periods of much greater population and notoriety.
We had lunch at the Hotel Moderna. It was excellent: an antipasto table w 2 kinds of tuna, pulpo w clams and mussels, a very good, slightly sweet caponata, and the ubiquitous eggplant; primi-spaghetti w mixed seafood and rotelle w tomatoes, garlic olive oil and almonds; secondi veal scallopini marsala and pork chop; and a delicious dense and complex Sicilian red, Regaleali 2000.
During Phoenician times there was an active cult involving the goddess of fertility, which the Greeks and Romans continued, changing only the goddess’s name. Sited high on the headland, the statue became synonymous with the protection of mariners. The much-treasured altar was destroyed in 260BC. The charm of this unusual and quaint little town lies in its intimate atmosphere. Narrow paved streets, blind walls and sturdy doors hide tiny patios and small courtyards. In summer it is bathed in sunlight and in winter it can be enveloped in mist and cloud—lending it a romantic and mysterious air. The view are stunning as you climb up to Porta Trapani to enter this small town. E. is laid out in the form of an equilateral triangle, but the tiny streets make following directions far from easy. As you enter the Porta Trapani, the fortified Chiesa Matrice on the left is the first monument of note. Its Gothic exterior (the rose window is a later addition) is superior and its unusually decorated ceiling is also of exacting workmanship. Wandering away from the main thoroughfare, Via Vittoria Emanuele, you’ll happen upon the Centro Ettore Majorana and the impressive town walls, the latter dating as far back as the Carthaginians, both on the western side. Before we had completed our tour a dense, wet fog rolled in and we really felt like medieval pilgrims. We got some marzipan for Meagan and Dawson and headed down down, down to the sunny valley.285 KM
Wednesday, October 27 Monreale & Castellacio
Monreale
The most important place to visit, only 5 mi southwest of Palermo, is Monreale. It dominates the green flanks of the Conca d’Oro (Valley of Gold) and was once a tranquil rural area, but it is now flecked w an ever-increasing number of private homes and apartment blocks. This town is renowned for its well-preserved Norman Benedictine abbey, founded by William II in 1174. The highlight of this notable complex of buildings is the Duomo (open each morning and late afternoon) with its fabulous mosaics and fine cloisters. The solid 12th c bronze doors open into the Duomo, constructed around an 18-columned nave. The unique simplicity of the Duomo serves to heighten the magnificence of its scintillating colored mosaics, said to cover a surface of over 64,000 square feet, which represent some of the finest religious craftsmanship in Europe. These 12th and 13th c mosaics, depicting biblical scenes, embellish the entire apse and the upper walls with the visual rendition of both the Old and New Testaments. Presiding over the entire illustration is a figure of Christ, hands raised in blessing. William II, the founder, is also depicted on two mosaics in the choir. The delicate architectural decoration of the exterior of the apse—similar to that of Palermo Cathedral—is also worth looking at. The cloisters adjoining the Duomo are no less spectacular. They are an architectural masterpiece and an intricate feat of delicacy and beauty. Myriad different designs characterize the pencil-thin twin columns—some carved and others inlaid with colored marble—and their different carved capitals are inspired by both Christian and medieval themes. Supported by the columns and capitals are elegant, pointed Gothic arches. Jerry didn’t feel well, so we walked around the markets a bit, got a panini and headed off.
Castellaccio & San Martino delle Scale
3km/1.8mi W.On Caputo Hill, opposite Monreale, lies the Castellaccio. It is located just off the road (a footpath zigzags up through the pine trees from the road to the remains) to San Martino delle Scale. The impressive panoramic views of Monreale are spectacular. San Martino is 7 km further W. Pleasantly situated at a height of 548m/1797ft, this retreat has long been prized for its cool climate. It assumed the name of the Benedictine monastery that was founded in 6C by St Gregory the Great, and which was rebuilt and enlarged in the 16th c. Home through Corlene298 KM
Thursday and Friday, October 28 & 29
Palermo
Left Franca’s and headed for Palermo. We left the car at the airport and were met promptly at noon by the bus which took us to the Hotel Concordia (I am sooo glad we decided not to try and bring the car into the city). Our room is fine, but we think it may be noisy at night—right on the Via Roma and within easy walking distance of everything.
La Kalsa and Via Alloro
La Kalsa (the area taking its name from the Arab word for pure, halisah). It’s a poor part of town but one which is very interesting, and the architecture has a distinct oriental flavor recalling the days when the Arab emirs and their ministers favored this section of P. Palazzo Abatellis*--Archeological Museum
San Domenico
The elegant Baroque façade of SD (Piazza Domenico, open every morning and late on Sat and Sun afternoons) with its columns, niches for sculpture and statue of its patron saint, St Dominic, sets the tone for P’s favorite church. The highlight of SD is, however, the Oratorio del Rosario di San Domenico in the building beside the church (closed). More extraordinary decorative work by the Baroque master of stucco, Serpotta, can be seen in the Oratorio del Rosario di Santa Cita (closed) just a few minutes away.
Oratorio del Rosario di San Domenico*** (closed)
Via Alloro—lots of shops and markets
La Gancia w wedding and street shrine
Galleria Regionale della Sicilia
Very excellent meal at Allo Spasimo, via della Spasimo 44/48, we both ate ourselves full—even Jerry couldn’t finish. J had sort of hush puppies w roasted pumpkin and I had a broccoli-eggplant soufflé, then spaghetti w shellfish and gigli w ricotta and pistachios, secondi steak and torenadoes rossini
Friday--The Historic Quarter
Corso Vittorio Emmanuele—also known as del Cassaro, this is one of the city’s main thoroughfares. It runs from the port right up to what was the royal palace. It was the link between the political, religious and municipal powers. Today it is busy and often congested, but it is still characterized by elegant buildings.
Porta Nuova This elaborate Renaissance-style gateway was built as a triumphal arch to the Emperor Charles V after his capture of Tunis in 1535. It was rebuilt in 1667 after destruction by lightning
Palazzo dei Normanni & Capella Palatina
It is likely that the first building to be erected on this site, now occupied by the Norman Palace (open MFSa mornings), dates back to the Carthaginians. Documents written during the Saracen era make mention of the building and although the emir moved to the Kalsa district of P, this area was again in vogue when the Normans took possession of S. Later the Spanish added the façade. Part of the palace is used today as the seat of S’s parliament (the Assemblea Regionale Siciliana). The highlight of this unusual building melds the finest Arab-Norman decorative elements and also borrows from antiquity. The 10 classical columns supporting the arches between the three naves, and the scintillating mosaics above, are surely one of the greatest European achievements of this era. The Lebanese cedar ceiling, floating in the best of Arab traditions like a cavern of delicate stalactites, is a marvel. The Pascal candle, too, is decorated with rich motifs. On the second floor, the Sale del Re Ruggiero (King Roger) is also a 12th c masterpiece with its mosaics depicting bucolic hunting scenes. Note the fine details in the animals, the flora and the delicate decorative elements along the lower walls.
Cattedrale
A garden of palms leads the visitor to the city’s large and striking cathedral. Much has been altered and enlarged over the centuries (it was first a Christian basilica, became a mosque under the Muslims, and was reconsecrated by the Normans). P’s cathedral dates from the 12th c. Parts of it are quire beautiful and others marry the subsequent styles less successfully. The southern portico is a good example of Catalan Gothic architecture—note the intarsia work, the sculpture and even the inclusion of a Koranic script. The lacy decoration and geometric designs of the exterior also hark back to the building’s Muslim days (open until 19:00 and closed during lunch in the summer months). The most interesting features of the interior are the chapels with their royal sarcophagi. Here the mortal remains of Sicily’s early kings are encased in dark porphyry. Amongst the nobles lies Roger Il, the island’s first king; his daughter Constance and her husband Henry IV; Frederico II and his wife, Constance of Aragon (in a dark red sarcophagus of Roman origin), and various other Aragonese royalty.
From the Quattro Canti to the Albergheria
“Quattro Canti”** (Piazza Vigliena)P’s two most important streets—Via Vittorio Emanuele and Via Maqueda—meet in Piazza Vigliena. The piazza, which is now rather soiled by vehicle pollution, was originally named after the 17th c Spanish Viceroy, the Duke of Vigliena. It is the city’s focal point, not just because of the two thoroughfares that pass through it, but also because of its beautiful 17th c palaces and elaborate fountains nearby. The palaces, redolent w Baroque ornamentation, shimmer in their wealth of classical decoration. Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian orders decorate their facades.La Martorana**Dominating Piazza Bellini is the 12th c bell tower of La M., which somewhat overshadows the church itself. Thus solid Norman church (open in the morning and from 15:30 to dusk) is named after Eloisa Martorana who, in 1143, founded a Benedictine convent (once next door). The church was built for the convent slightly later, possibly with the assistance of artisans from Constantinople. Some of the original Norman structure still exists, including the beautiful mosaics, though much has been modified over the centuries. The soaring vaults are patterned with rich colors and myriad decorations. Columns, saints and cherubs all represent the different epochs of ecclesiastical decoration.
San Cataldo** Lunch at Villa Cicaia, via G. Filangeri 10, Piazza Maggione—nice place, good, normal meal Pack and get ready for an early departure
Saturday, October 30—HOME