Greece~Paros & the Peloponnese~ December, 2010

Fri., Dec 3, 2010

Depart Newark CO 104 5:40 pm to

Sat., Dec. 4 Arrive Athens

Herb and Candy picked us up at 2 and we got to EWR and departed without incident. Very long flight (nine and a half hours). There were only eighty passengers, so we each got three middle seats to ourselves. Jerry was able to sleep but I was not. We arrived about 10:30 am. Jerry changed money and bought stamps at the airport. Then we got metro tickets (5 Euros each), boarded the #3 (blue) line and rode for an hour. The metro is very nice and clean. It was built when Athens hosted the Olympics. When we got off and changed to the #1 (green), Jerry’s pocket was picked. His wallet, with only about $250, three credit cards and his drivers’ license were gone. No police were to be found.

We continued on to Piraeus port and found the ferry had been cancelled for this afternoon. We walked about a mile to the police station and were told we needed to first call the credit card companies to cancel the cards. The phones in the police station didn’t work. We found a place to buy a telephone card (the newsstand next to the pay phone was out of them). Then the phones wouldn’t work. We finally called our friend, Panos, who said to dial 11-8888. When we did that, the operator said to call 11-8889. That number was busy, busy, busy (we later found out the operators don’t work on weekends). We walked back to the port and found a nice hotel (the Triton). Finally we called the American embassy, also closed on Sunday, but did reach an on-call person, Achilles, who could make calls to the US. While I walked to purchase ferry tickets for tomorrow, Jerry dealt with BOA and MasterCard. The thieves had already chard over $4000 on the BOA Visa card. He then walked back to the police station to file a report of the insurance companies. We were just getting ready to go find something to eat when Panos called. He and Maria and Manos took us to a great Piraeus seafood restaurant with a bounty of small plates. He gave Jerry a cell phone to use for the rest of the trip. We gave them PSU T-shirts and she gave us interesting wall plaques from Lalaounis. Home and to bed. Jerry slept. I didn’t.

Sun., Dec. 5 to Paros

Good breakfast at hotel. Got to the ferry about 7:15 and it left promptly at 7:30. We had comfortable “airplane” seats for the four hour fifteen minute trip to Paros. There were whitecaps, but the ride felt very smooth. The rental car agent was waiting with a four-door Hyundai. He had no problem accepting Jerry’s International Drivers License. We discovered that our ferry tickets for next Saturday are for 5 PM, not AM, and there is no morning ferry, so we will have to change to Friday later in the week. Drove a half hour to our very nice complex, Anezina Village. We had our choice of two villas and selected a two-bedroom on one floor with kitchen, fireplace and two baths. Stavros asked the supermarket next door, owned by Marguerite, to open for us and we got supplies. The he gave us a map and an orientation. The island is absolutely beautiful and we took a short drive north. We stopped at Anna and Giorgio’s’ Restaurant, recommended by Stavros, and joined a very jolly, very Greek, Sunday afternoon dinner. “Mama” had made lamb, pork with lemon sauce, stuffed vine leaves (we got the last of these), Greek salad, fava beans and lots of potatoes, so we ate well. With bread and wine, the bill was 36 Euros and included caramel cake for dessert. We drove down to several beaches, then hoe, where Jerry built a fire and we drank some wine and stayed up almost till 9. Slept well.

Mon, Dec. 6

Up at 8:15. Jerry went to Marguerite’s for delicious, fresh, warm bread and we breakfasted on oranges he picked from the trees here. Drove OBT all day. First to Lefkes, a picture-perfect little village, obviously dedicated to summer tourism, but today we were the only people about. We had already found a mountain monastery, M. Ag. Georgiou, a Byzantine monastery from the 13th century, where some small birds were flitting about and one lone monk emerged from an incense-filled chapel. Wandered in the mid-south mountains. To Aliki and its pretty harbor. Stopped in Prodomos for a meal at Tsitsanj. Good home cooking. Found the ancient quarries, mines of Mrmara/Marathi, where the famous marble of Paros, supposedly better than that of Carrere is found. Ended at another small port. Not as tired tonight.

Tue., Dec 7

Slept late. Beautiful day in the low 70’s. Drove north and turned east to Sterni, where we saw a Hellenic tower and more birds. Absolutely gorgeous drive along the coast to Santa Maria beach, the Loveladies of Paros. Spent a bit of time in Noussa, but nothing was open. The two cafes were just that. Jerry was disappointed not to have fresh fish. Out along the northern coast to the Mycenaean Acropolis, a deserted town. A bit of wandering to Kostes, the smallest town on Paros. Everything was closed there too, but it was fun to stroll through the streets. Took a delightful dead end to a huge construction dump, then found our way back to Anezina. The internet has been down all day.

Wed., Dec 8

Up early for dap at the capital, Parikia. Found the ferry port for Antiparos, the tiny island next door, which we plan to visit later. Beautiful beaches. Visited the Archeological museum and the Church of 100 Doors, with its museum. Changed our ferry tickets and let the rental place know we would be leaving early. Visited several ancient sites: Asklyion, the Archilochon Cave, Temple of Apollo, and, in the city, a Ceramic Workshop, Sculpture Workshop, East Walls, mosaic Floor, and the Cemetery of the Ancient City. Had a great lunch at Apostolis with small plates: tzatziki, small fry, grilled octopus and skate salad with yogurt and honey for dessert. Excellent! The Butterfly Valley was closed, so we were home before 6.

Thu, Dec 9

Took the ferry over to Antiparos and toured that little island. Beautiful. The cave (big attraction) was closed. Some really big, gorgeous houses. Came back and had another great lunch at Apostolis with the addition of fried eggplant and stuffed vine leaves. Home and repacked.

Fri., Dec 10

Another beautiful day with a few high clouds. Checked out (20 Euros for electricity and 8 for laundry) and drove to the port. Returned the car (115 Euros). Demetrius said we were getting out “just in time.” The next few days will be cold and windy, with a chance of SNOW in Athens. Rough ride, but the ship is big and steady. Got to the hotel Triton. Bought a map of the Peloponnese and changed our plan for the next two days based on it. Had a good dinner. Jerry ordered fish soup, and the soup arrived, then the fish—a whole big guy with vegetables. To bed early for an early wake-up call.

Sat., Dec 11

The weather forecasters were right. It snowed in Athens—a once in three or four year occurrence. It was also very cold. Got the metro to the airport and found our Ford Focus waiting for us. The motorway was excellent, if snowy and blowy. One hour to Corinth, where the weather changed to bright and sunny; another to Tripoli, then 40 minutes to Sparta and another 40 to Gythio, a jewel of a tiny harbor town, with boats in the water and houses climbing up the steep mountainside. We found a nice hotel, Leonaides, with a balcony overlooking the harbor. Off for a tour of the Manis, Inner and Outer. Drove down the west coast and up the east. Back just as it got dark. Best meal in town is right next door. Mezes again. The only new one was “drunkards meat—delicious stewed pork. No fresh fish, as the weather has been too bad to go out. Good night’s sleep.

Sun., Dec. 12

Had a light breakfast at the hotel then drove north to Mystras, where we spent three hours exploring and admiring the Byzantine architecture. We decided to take the “scenic” route back. Up steep craggy mountains, amid dark pine forests and traces of yesterday’s snow. Down along the east coat road, past pretty little beach towns and back from Corinth to the Holiday inn at the airport. To dinner with Panos. Maria and Manos. This time, we went to a lamb restaurant, where there were succulent lambs grilling on spits and barbeques.

Mon., Dec 13

Our flight wasn’t until noon, so we had plenty of time to get organized. It was a longer flight than the one coming over, but it seemed shorter because it was daylight the whole way (11.5 hours). It was snowing when Herb and Candy picked us up in Newark. The house was cold, so we turned on the heat and went to Kubels for dinner. Excellent trip.