GREECE--March, 1998

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Wed., March 4, 1998

Left LBI, after lunching at Kubel's too, about 1:15 PM.  Got to the longterm parking at Kennedy by 3.  No lines at Delta; checked in and got to our gate by 3:30.  This trip is starting very favorably.  Yesterday morning Interval International, the time-share booking company called and told me there was a "problem."  With my heart in my throat, I asked what the problem was.  It appears that our resort doesn't open until next week.  Therefore, they have upgraded us to a five star resort in Agios Nicolas.

 

After our cold and rainy vacation in Florida, this seems almost too good to be true.  We had every problem possible short of a crash then, and now, even our special cold seafood meals have appeared. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.  Jerry (as usual) was able to sleep on the flight.  I was not.  Ten hours is a long time. 

 

Th., March 5

We arrived on time, got our bags without incident, and Panos was there to meet us, as promised.

 

We saw the school he owns, a votech training institute for jewelers and others, and then we walked and walked through narrow, winding streets of the Plaka and Ministriaki districts, with the Parthenon always in view.

 

He took us to the Museum of Jewelry, founded by the well-known Ilias Lalaounis, and had a very long and detailed tour.  Panos's friend, Maria, works there and got us access to the rooftop patio, where we had cake and juice and looked directly up to the Acropolis. Then we walked some more, through street after street of markets where everything imaginable was for sale.  We stopped at an outdoor café for "mezes" (snacks) and shared light and delicate calimari, cheese and spinach pies and a Greek salad.  Very welcome.  Jerry and I came back to our hotel, the Odeon (small, but cheap and adequate) and slept for two hours.  Now we're dressing to see "the other face of Athens" with our friends.

 

It's midnight and we just returned from a wonderful evening. Panos's brother, Michael, drove the five of us to Marco Antonio's along the seafront in Piraeus.  The food kept coming and coming: plates of Greek salad, shrimp saganaki, big langostinos, little lightly batter dipped fish, calamari, grilled zucchini, fries, and grilled and marinated octopus.

 

We had brought Panos some gifts and Maria gave us a beautiful silver owl perched on an onyx base.  She designed it herself.  She's really a very nice person, very much in love with Panos.

 

We're going to bed and to dream of walking through Athens tomorrow.

 

 

Fri., March 6

Slept pretty well.  Woke about 4 and then went back about 6 for a couple of hours.  Washed my hair and the dryer worked fine for a few minutes, then stopped.  I've burned up more converters, transformers, and hair dryers than most people have owned.

 

We did most of the two walking tours in our Eyewitness Guide to Greece (this really is a good series of books).  First the Monastrakini, walking through the street markets again to the Pantenassa Church--the "little monastery."  Then we walked south, past the ruins of Hadrian's library, built in AD 132, to the Roman Forum and the Tower of the Winds, with its unusual octagonal design.  It was built as a water clock and weather vane in the first century BC. 

The Fethiye Mosque, built by the Turks to celebrate their occupation of Athens in the late 15th century, was in a corner of the Forum.

 

We moved on to the tour of Central Plaka, the historic heart of Athens.  Both areas are very crowded, but the people seemed mostly to live there.  We haven't seen many tourists at all.

 

We went into the Mitropoli, the main cathedral of the city.   It was built in the mid-19th century using marble from 72 demolished churches for its walls.  It is obviously very much in use today, with many icons and many people kissing them.  Two saints are buried there, but it was quite dark and we couldn't really see everything.

 

Just behind the cathedral is the Panagia Gorgoepikos, a tiny 12th century church, just 25' by 40', in scale with Athens when it was a tiny village.

 

In the eastern part of the Plaka is Lysikratous Square with its monument of the same name.  Despite Lord Elgin's attempts to remove it, this elegant structure is the city's only intact choregic monument (built to commemorate victors at choral and dramatic festivals).  Byron wrote Childe Harold while sitting near the monument.

 

Stepping out of the Plaka, we saw Hadrian's Arch and the Temple of Olympian Zeus, the largest in Greece, exceeding even the Parthenon.  Begun in the sixth century BC, it was not completed for 650 years.  Although only 15 of the original 104 columns remain, it was easy to imagine the grandeur of the temple in its prime.

 

The Acropolis was even more beautiful than we had imagined.  Although lots of it is being renovated, it is all in the open air, so you are able to see it.  It was built in the mid fifth century BC, when Pericles persuaded the Athenians to begin a grand program of new building work in Athens that has come to represent the political and cultural achievements of Greece.  The work transformed the Acropolis hill with three temples (Athena Nike, Erechtheron--with the Porch of the Caryatids, and the Parthenon itself) and a monumental gateway.  We saw the Theatre of Herodes Atticus, where concerts are still held.  We were lucky because for some reason there was no admission fee today so we saved 4000 drachmas.  The museum was very interesting and has lots of "finds" from the Acropolis including statues and sections of the Partheneon frieze not looted by Elgin.

 

We walked through the Anafiiotika, one of the oldest sections of Athens, and had lunch at Miltonz (saganaki, tzatziki and dolmathakia), outside, of course.

 

We tried to visit the Agora, marketplace and political heart of Athens, but it was closed.  Panos says everything is supposed to close in the afternoon, but not everything does.  He says America has few (?!?) laws but they are all enforced; Greece has many laws but they are enforced only occasionally.

 

We stopped to see him and tour his school (named for Galileo) where his students learn electrical, automotive, HVAC, or jewelry skills. I liked the jewelry the best.

 

We left him and walked to the Parliament buildings in Plateia Syntagamatos, where we saw the famous National Guard on patrol in front of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, decorated with an evocative relief of a dying soldier.  They "performed" in their famous uniforms of kilt and pompom clogs (their tops were navy, I guess the white I had expected is the summer uniform).

 

Back to the Odeon to pack and to get ready to meet Panos and Maria at 8:30 (things begin late in Greece).  What a night--OBT for sure.  We met them and walked to a way back taverna for mezes.  Then Michael met us at 11:30 and we drove to a place with very authentic Greek music and dancing.  We were the oldest in the house, but it didn't matter.  If it hadn't have been for the cigarette smoke which had me crying all night, it would have been perfect.  We got home at 2 am and set the clock for 6:15.

 

Off to Crete Sat., March 7

Six thirty came very early this morning, but we made it.  Caught a cab with no trouble at 7 and were at the airport by 7:20 (with a stop on the way to photograph the Acropolis at dawn) for our 8:50 flight.  It was uneventful (Olympic Air) and we landed at Heraklion about 9:40.  The Hertz counter at the International terminal was closed, but the regular one was open and we got our green, green, green "Jive" Nissan and were on our way.The drive to Elounda was beautiful.  Arid hills, which go right down to the blue sea, were covered with red, white, yellow and orange flowers.  Then we found Porto Elounda Mare!! 

 

This is an unbelievably luxurious resort.  We are in "Kos", #10 Villa: 2 stories, 2 bedrooms, 2 baths, 2 fireplaces, sunken living room, full kitchen, private garden, and our own pool.  I feel like Jackie O.  The off-season rate is $300 per day and in high season it's $750.  I'm a bit overwhelmed.

 

After we unpacked, we decided on a short trip to visit Krista, a little village near our capital of Agios Nickolas.  We visited the church of Panajia Kera, a tiny place and one of the finest creations of Byzantine art.  A grove of pines and cypresses gives it an atmosphere of tranquility, but the best things are the beautiful frescos, "the finest in Crete."  They were painted everywhere and, even with our very good guidebook, we gave up on identifying all the saints and Bible stories.

 

Close by was the Doric town of Latos.  Here are the ruins of a town founded in the 7th and 8th centuries BC.  We wound our way up a narrow and rough road and found one old man sitting by a gate.  He told us the site closed at three (it was shortly after 1), and we began our climb.  What a neat place!!  The Dorians came after the peaceful and creative Minoans and Myceans and really began the classic Greek culture.  It is very simple and elegant architecture.  The town was very interesting and easy to follow with our books.  We also saw kiri kiri (wild goats) clinging to the sides of sheer rock faces. 

 

We made it back by 2:30 and figured we had better find some places to buy food before everything closes at three.  We got oranges at a fruit stand, bread at a bakery, and sausage, wine and cheese at a mini mart.  We came back to Elounda for a late lunch and stopped at Gleeka's place.   Apparently they weren't scheduled to open till five tonight (Grand Opening), but they seemed happy to serve us.  We had grilled eggplant, gyros and Greek salad with lots of wine.  Gleeka brought us complementary ouzo first and before we left brought us another (for the other leg).  We talked quite a while.  She is newly here after a not too happy experience in Germany.  We walked around the port, but I was tired, so we came home to watch our beautiful view and catch up on our sleep.  We went to bed at nine.

 

Sun., March 8

Slept soundly until 8, breakfasted on freshly squeezed (of course our villa has an electric juicer) orange juice and rolls, then began our "Eastern Crete" itinerary.

 

Gournia was a typical Minoan town with narrow paved streets, small dwelling houses and a palace and temple on the highest ground.  It is one of the earliest examples of a European town.  Gournia was occupied from BC 3000-1100.  The remains date from its heyday between 1800 and 1500 BC (late middle and early late Minoan periods).

 

I bought some film in the little fishing village of Paheia Ammes, and we followed the beautiful road along the coast to Sitia.  We stopped several times to admire the panoramas.  After the first stop, Jerry always remembered to set the hand brake before we got out.

 

We left the main (red) highway for a yellow road, which hugged the coast, passing the interesting Italinate monastery at Toplori.  It was built in the first half of the 14th century and was much used during WWII.  We didn't stop as one of the books talked about how the architecture had been changed to accommodate tourists and about how one of the two remaining monks (there had been 150) was rather "sullen."

 

The landscape is very barren and desolate--sharp mountains covered with stony rubble and scrub brush (herbs such as thyme) dropping right into the very blue sea. At one point we came upon a "development", Dionysis Villas, right in the middle of NOWHERE. Then suddenly we were in the middle of a banana plantation and a beautiful palm lined blue beach at Vai.  The book said the palms were a result of Arab traders leaving seeds from dates they ate.  We bought some of the best bananas I've ever had and decided to wait for lunch.

 

We traveled south through Palekastro with a fascinating mixture of lush countryside and totally barren landscapes to the excavation site of Kato Zakros.  The last curvy and rather steep stretch is interesting, leading through country that reminded us of photos of the moon.  The valley, however, seemed lush, and we actually saw water on some of the rocks.

 

Suddenly, the road ended in front of a taverna.  We parked and walked around until we found the entrance to the palace behind the taverna.  We were (again) the only tourists, but there was a girl in the ticket booth who gave us two tickets (free) and told us the site closed at three (Why was she there?).  This was less well preserved than Gournia, but better explained in both books.  The area was inhabited from 2700 BC.  The palace and ports were in existence from, 1600-1410, making it a bit later than Gournia but much earlier than Lato (Dorian).  This one was destroyed by the Mycenaeans, not by the "catastrophes" (earthquakes and tidal waves) that kept destroying the rest of Crete.

 

We decided to have lunch at the taverna where we had parked (with one other, apparently the total town).  The only other people there were locals.  We sat at a table just feet from the sea and ate: souvlaki which we had seen cooking on an outdoor grill, tzatziki, Greek salad and calamari with bread and wine.  Wonderful.

 

We had filled up with gas at Sitia; so, with a full belly and a full gas tank, we headed west.  There were two ways to go--the yellow roadway on which we had come, or the white (minor--some would say donkey path) road.  Of course we picked the OBT way, a dirt and stone trail on which we only saw one other (very surprised) vehicle.

 

It was quite a trip, but we made it back to a yellow road (scenic) and then back via Sitia.  On our way through Agios Nickolas, we saw a tiny church with the doors open and we went in.  It was about 12x12 but filled with beautiful icons.  Quite a treat.  Home to our own palace where we had a snack (during which the maid came to check and make sure everything is OK--it is).  Now we have to plan tomorrows and Knossos.

 

 

Mon., March 9

Another beautiful day.  My spring clothes are very comfortable, although the Cretans are still wrapped in layers of woolen duds.  It's lovely to come home at the end of the day and to write this journal while looking out over our lighted pool and the blue Mediterranean.

 

We drove back to Heraklion to get to the palace at Knossos (1600-1400 BC).  Here the architectural apogee of the Golden Age of Minoan culture can be seen.  The palace extends over five acres and had 1300 rooms on 4 stories.  Eight thousand people lived there at the time of the catastrophe of Santorini in 1450.  This is purported to be the scene of the Minoan labyrinth where King Minos kept the Minotaur until Theseus killed him. This was much more extensively renovated than anything we've seen so far and apparently the reconstruction has occasioned much controversy.  All of the frescos and artifacts have been removed to the museum at Heraklion.  Some have been recreated at Knossos and concrete has been used to hold stones together throughout the palace.  I'm glad they did it, because it gives a much clearer picture of the site.

 

 From Knossos we drove south through Arkhanes and fields and fields of olives and grapes.  There were some excavations here, but they were closed on Monday, so we enjoyed the scenery and went over a very OBT road until we rejoined a red road to Kastelli. 

 

We stopped at the Angarnthos monastery founded in 960.  The newer church had wonderful icons including one of the "Mother of God Suckling the Child."  We don't understand what the aluminum "tags" hanging from icons are. 

We also don't know why the roadside shrines have unusual personal items in front of the icons.

 

The books talked about the town of Thrapsano where the main street is lined with potter's workshops and the winding lanes and old Turkish houses have hardly changed for centuries.  We drove through and saw the workshops, but it seemed very strange, with no people, stores, tavernas or anything.  On the outskirts of town we found a shop and bought a plate and a bowl.

 

The road led into Kastelli where we lunched at the taverna Irini (rainbow) in a neoclassical building built in 1910.  We had a great meal of taramosalata, grilled octopus, moussaka and the old goat had old goat.

 

We came home and walked around the grounds.

Note: at the supermarket, the CD's were various Greek music, Frank Sinatra (40-year-old photo) and Tina Turner.

 

 

 

Tues., March 10

It was a bit overcast when we got up and had our fresh OJ, baklava, chocolate filled croissant, coffee and tea, so we decided to go into AN and visit the Archeological Museum, the most important one in Crete after the one in Heraklion.  It was built in 1970 to house the rich new finds from eastern Crete.  It was very well set up, with exhibits arranged in chronological order from Neolithic (6000-2100 BC) to the end of the Greco-Roman period (550-400 BC).  It was very interesting, and my guidebook identified the contents of each room, case-by-case.

 

By the time we emerged, the weather had cleared and it was sunny and warm.  We decided to explore the town.  It is a very Mediterranean place, with the beautiful Gulf of Mirabello to the east and the picturesque lake Voulismeni (one of only 2 fresh water lakes in Crete) adjoining the harbor.  One of the guidebooks says, "It soon becomes clear that water is not the main attraction...AN is quite simply a magnet for the trendiest of Crete's tourists--the one resort on the island which is reminiscent of Mykonos."

 

We, however, appear to be the only tourists here.  We were the only ones at the Museum (they had to turn the lights on for us).  The season doesn't start for another 10 days, and the Tourist Office wasn't even open (although the sign outside listed our hotel as the most expensive in the area).  We walked around and looked in shops and restaurants.  The one really nice "Museum Shop" was closed so we'll try that again.

 

We finally found the church for which the town was named.  It was outside of the town on the grounds of the Minos Palace Hotel--a beautiful new place where workmen were frantically trying to get it ready for the season.  We got a key for the church at the front desk (after surrendering our passport as hostage). 

 

It was a beautiful little place and one of the oldest churches in Crete with the only example of the ornamental frescos from the period of Iconoclasm (726-843) when figural representation was banned in churches and the only painting was ornamental.  It was overpainted with figures in the 14th century, and we also saw graffiti carved by visitors in the 18thcentury.

 

We were ready for lunch so we drove north through Elounda to the fishing village of Plaka.  We looked for boats to take us to the fortress turned leper colony, but there were none as it is still winter.

 

We did find a wonderful fish taverna for lunch.  Of course, we were the only patrons. The proprietor showed us two pans of fish (caught this morning).  We selected a flat flounder and a big something or other, which we had with a big salad and a plate of grilled octopus.  The view was magnificent--right on the sheltered blue green bay with the island opposite.  The "beach" was large, perfectly smooth river stones, and when the waves went out, we could hear a unique sound as they tumbled against each other.

 

Thus fortified, we drove to the Aretion monastery (closed), stopped and hiked to the scanty remains of ancient Dreros, an important city in the Archaic Period (620-480 BC), where I found a scrap of ancient pottery.

 

Here we found that everything we had read about the sensual nature of Greece is true.  You are surrounded by the sounds of birds singing and the smells of herbs--oregano, thyme and sage.  The colors are intense--blue sky and deep blue water; yellow, red and white flowers; pink almond trees.

 

Home through Kastelli (a different one) with old Venetian mansions and its neighbor, Phourni.  It was sprinkling a bit as we stopped to see the "other face of Elounda," the half-submerged city or Olous, destroyed by an earthquake around the 4th century.  At the site was also a beautiful mosaic floor, now totally exposed to the elements, from an Early Christian basilica.

 

Wed., March 11

It was raining when we got up, so we decided to attack Heraklion and the world famous Archeological Museum.  We found a place to park about two inches longer than Jive and just about as wide.  Jerry did a great job of parking.  (Although the driver's mirror was "folded" back when we returned)

 

Most of the treasures of Knossos and the other palaces are here, and it was a very interesting visit, especially since we've seen some and will see more of the sites.  Again, our guidebook did an excellent job of identifying the contents of each room's cases.

 

We finished just before 2 and decided to try and reach Tylissos (which closes at 3), where the remains of 3 late Minoan villas are on display.  If we hadn't become hopelessly lost in Heraklion we might have made it.  As it was, we got there (the books are right--get out of this capital city as quickly as you can) about 2:45, in the pouring rain, and it was locked.  However, the parking lot overlooked the site so we were able to get a good idea of its layout.

 

We had to go back toward the capital so we stopped at a very OBT taverna in Gais.  The owner, who looked as if he had spent the morning painting and plastering, spoke no English.  So we went into the kitchen, he opened the fridge, and we pointed.  Everything was good including a great plate of papouleh salad (I think it must have been some sort of wild green), drizzled with olive oil and vinegar.

 

We got home about 5:30 and rested.

 

 

 

Th., March 12

This was a long day--we didn't get home till after 7 (and left at 8:30 am) but a very interesting one.  The weather was bright and sunny if a bit cool in the mountains, with dramatic black clouds hovering over the mountains.

 

We took the road south to Ierapetra, the most southerly town in Europe.  This is a rich vegetable and fruit-growing region--cucumbers, tomatoes and beans--and is known as the vegetable garden of Greece.  Olives and citrus trees were everywhere.  The trip was gorgeous, with breathtaking views.

 

From Ierapetra we turned west and traveled close to the coast to Mirtos, the "hippie beach" where the caves are now locked at night to keep them out.  The road went slightly north and then west--very picturesque.  Between Sinikismos and Aniras we suddenly came upon a modern monument with a poem in four languages (Greek, English, German and French) inscribed on stones, which honored the 350 people, killed by the Nazis in 1943.

 

We took one wrong turn but it was only about six miles.  I continue to be impressed by this map.  We stopped at the town of Aimi at the village market, but it was strictly for the town, not for tourists.  There were the usual fruit and vegetable vendors, but also shoes, fabrics, clothes and hardware--nothing we couldn't live without, and no handicrafts.

 

We drove all the way to Agia Triada for the first of four planned stops.  I had a few doubts about whether we would make it up the road, but we did.  Speculation is that this site was the summer residence of the rulers from the palace at Festos.  Many frescos and cult objects were found here including the Harvester Vase and the wonderful sarcophagus we saw in Heraklion.  One of the interesting things here is the number of apparently original columns, carvings, etc that haven't been moved.

 

We took a short detour to the town of Vori, where we saw a very interesting folk museum with exhibits categorized into areas of everyday life: food gathering, weaving, agriculture, viniculture, tools, etc.

 

Festos (Phaistos) was the next stop.  After Knossos, this is the most important palace.  Like the others it was destroyed and rebuilt on two occasions and was used until 1450 BC (and the catastrophe of Santorini).  The famous Festos disc with the world's oldest printed script was found here.

 

 We stopped for lunch in Mires and once again had a very authentic meal.  We each started with a bean dish: mine was a kind of vegetable stew, and J's was mashed and heated gray beans drenched with olive oil and onions.  Then I had wonderful light fried eggplant slices and J had octopus stew followed by meatballs.

 

Then to the final site, Gortis, quite a different one.  The first building is the impressive ruin of the basilica of St. Titus (6th century), pupil of St. Paul and the first bishop of Crete.  More impressive is the Odeon (theatre) at first century Roman rotunda with the famous Code of Gortys, a law code dating from 500-450 BC.  Twelve tables of laws have been preserved out of probably an original 20.  They are on 42 stone blocks.  The Romans didn't understand the dialect and left them alone.

 

Then we walked across the street and through a working olive grove where columns and tablets lay about or formed part of farmers' walls.  What a sense of history!  Finally we found a Roman Praetorium, an excavation in process with first and second century carvings.  Quite a day!

 

Fri., March 13

Our vacation is coming to an end.  This day was beautiful.  We went into AN in the morning.  The shop was still closed, so we walked around the town a bit and when we came back it was finally open.  The owner, artist Nick Gavril, was working on his copies of ancient Greek art.  He told us about the pieces, including a major one, which has been purchased by the Met.  We selected a plate with symbols of Aphrodite, Poseidon, and "Harmony."

 

Then we set off for a scenic tour around the Lasithiou Plateau.  We climbed and climbed, almost to the snow covered peaks, then descended into the plain, a basin of about 15 square miles enclosed by the Dikti mountains, and one of the most fertile areas of Crete, growing potatoes, fruits and cereals.  One of the caves here (which we didn't visit) was the birthplace of Zeus.

 

We were hungry and stopped at the only town, which looked as if it might have a taverna, Dzernuado.  It had several, but only one was open.  The lady in charge, after running across the street when she saw us, led us to the kitchen and offered us bean soup and pork with roasted potatoes.  She apologized for not having more, but this was not the season of tourists.  It looked fine to us, and we ate heartily. 

 

On the road out of town, we spied a tiny stone shop with beautiful weavings, lace and embroidery.  Jerry bargained and we left with 2 rugs.

 

 We stopped at a charming little abandoned monastery, Moni Gouverniotisas, whose only inhabitants were 2 baby goats.  In the center was a gorgeous lemon tree, and J speared himself on giant thorns releasing 3 of the yellow globes from bondage.

 

 

 

 

After one last stop at the supermercado, we made our way back to the villa and began to pack.  We went back to Gleeka's for dinner.  She was very happy to see us and we had a long conversation.  She gave us ouzo again and we ordered dinner: Lamb chops for me and baked gyros with brandy sauce for J.  We talked some more and her husband made us a flaming brandy.  Jerry forgot to blow his out before tasting.  Now his bottom lip is white.  We had a drink at the hotel bar and retired.

 

Sat., March 14

We checked out (owing 17759 drachmas for electricity and water) and headed west about 9:30.  We had one last palace to see--Malia--and almost felt as if we knew what we were looking at--we have learned something.  Malia was signposted and had paths, probably because of its proximity to the capital.  There were also a few other tourists here.

 

 

We ate sandwiches by the roadside and made it to the airport without incident.  I checked us in while J returned Jive to Hertz.  We waited about 45 minutes and boarded our flight.  We've noticed that there seems to be little organization in Greek airports.  We landed in Athens and got a cab to the Odeon.  It seemed to take a long time.  There was a demonstration against the devaluation of the drachma and it made the route slow.

 

We checked in and called Panos.  We arranged to meet them at Kolonaki Square, the center of Athens and a very posh neighborhood.  We ate dinner at Jackson Hall, an American style sports bar, and then Michael took us for a hair-raising ride up to Lykavithos Hill, the highest in the city.  We drove as far as we could, then walked the rest of the way.  The views were spectacular.  The small whitewashed chapel of Agios Georgios crowns the top of the hill.  We had coffee and dessert in the restaurant and then walked back to the car.  It was a great way to spend our last evening in Greece.

 

Sun., March 15

Home on another long flight.  Got to LBI about 7:30 PM (2:30 AM body time), went through the mail and prepared to return to reality.