Many of you understand the question,” What do you DO in the winter (or summer in FL).”  Well, we are settling into a routine here and the answer remains the same. “We do what everyone else does. We do the laundry, the shopping, the cleaning up.” As we are retired, it does leave some time for fun, and we are trying to take advantage of the opportunities here, but there is daily maintenance just the same. Appliances are different. You have to empty the water out of the dryer (which we use much more sparingly) after each use; it is not vented to the outdoors, so the water accumulates in a condenser. It has taken me till today to find a vegetable steamer so I don’t have to boil new peas. They make their beds differently, with a covered duvet instead of a top sheet, so morning bed-making is easier, but weekly washing is a bit more complicated. And the washer and dryer are about one quarter of the size of similar US appliances, so you do laundry almost daily.

Friday: The weather is definitely getting warmer, and the mornings are similar to those at home—fog until about 11 and then the sun comes out. Overall it is cooler and more rainy than we expected.  Every morning now there are new wildflowers to see on our morning walks. Zulu doesn’t care, but I do. When you look out across the fields, you see yellow and green, but closer viewing reveals tiny pink daisies, and blues and purple flowers of every size and hue. The wild daisies began to bloom in the past day or so and they are prolific. Went to the market in Aiguillon and ordered pork shoulder and chicken livers for the picnic we are having on May 18 and got a pre-paid envelope to send mail to the US. We also found the Intermarche (super Intermarche) and it is by far the best one yet. Spent a few hours on the last of the teak chairs. I will get another coat of oil on them before we leave, but I’m glad to have this first part done. 

The village of Clairac is situated on a terrace overlooking the Lot . It was developed when Pepin the Short decided to found a Benedictine Abbey on the site in 767. The Abbey's monks were the originators of the area's two main crops, tobacco and the Ente plum. There is currently a Cistercian retreat next to the ruins of the Abbey. I would like to come back here when it's warmer. More views of the Lot in Laparade and Castlemoron-sur-Lot, both towns worth a longer visit later on. Came home and planted the geraniums. They will look very nice on the steps. I may get some more at the next market in Aiguillon.

Max taught Jerry how to use the tractors and strimmer, and they had a marathon cutting the "allee" and around the outside of the closest field. The rest of the property (160 acres) is farmed by two different farmers, who plant mainly grasses (alfalfa, etc).  

We had a "grazing" lunch (my favorite kind), with various pates, cheeses and bread. The owner had asked some neighbors for dinner at 7:30 , so we met Roger and Marilyn  and Shirley and Jerrold, all English ex-pats who we hope will become friends and guides to the area. We will have to learn a new order of eating, beginning with an appetizer (carrot soup), then entree (delicious duck with an oriental sauce and rice), followed by a salad, cheese and homemade tarte au citron. It was close to midnight until we were abed, and we slept soundly and awoke to the sound of distant thunder, but sunny skies. I took Zulu for a long walk.  

Monday, April 15:  Worked around, then took the family to the airport after dinner. The Tom Tom GPS worked just fine to get us home. Our credit card didn't work for the toll road. We need to find out why, as it is supposed to have the magic "chip" required in Europe . When we got home, we turned on the TV news and heard about the Boston terrorist attack.  

Tuesday, April 16:  Our first day on our own. Jerry worked outside most of the day and I organized the spice cabinets and generally nosed about to figure out where everything is located. Carol Spires called and we set up a meeting for Saturday morning. I'm having some computer issues, so that took a bit of time, but we'll get it worked out.

Wednesday: Did laundry and hung it under the cherry trees.

Monday: Beautiful and sunny, but cold again. Zulu had had a bad night. He woke us barking in the middle of the night. Jerry went down and rearranged his very tousled bed. I thought he had a bad dream, but this morning he was acting strange. I had to wake him up and he wasn't anxious to come out. He wouldn't walk far with me and stood barking at the farmer a couple of hundred yards away plowing his field. When I finally gave up and came back, he went right inside and back to bed. Hung the laundry that had washed overnight when electricity is cheaper. Jerry mowed. Pam picked me up for the ladies lunch at Le Temps de Vivre, an old toll house on the river in St. Hilaire de Lusignan. There were eleven of us in a private room in the intricately tiled restaurant. The gardens were beautiful and I'm sure they are packed in the summer. We had an entree of mussels cooked in a creamy sauce with good crusty bread, then roasted guinea hen with egg noodles, carrots and broad beans. Espresso and a chocolate Easter egg completed the meal which had been accompanied by lots of vin rouge and rose (they don't seem to drink much white here, except with fish). There were two French ladies and one of them, Marie Helene, whom I had met the previous week, sat next to me and is very helpful in learning French. We made a date with one other lady, Helen, for next Tuesday for tea and bi-lingual conversation.

Tuesday: Rained hard all morning. Zulu seems better and we went for a long, wet walk. We made a foray to the big Intermarche for supplies. In the afternoon, I cleaned, sanded and oiled four of the teak deck chairs. It would have been easier if someone had put a coat of oil on them when they were new. I will try and do the others later this week. Jerry found the other radiator in the West Tower so now we are warm in both the TV room and our bath.

Wednesday, May 1: A national holiday in France. All the businesses are closed and there are lots of families who take this time (also school holidays) to take excursions. We joined many of them in Tournon-d’Agenais. Jerry and I met Carol, Jane (Neil is in the UK, and Bernard was tied up with a bathroom project) at Jane’s in Prayssas for coffee and croissants, then we set off in our big car. The day was absolutely gorgeous, finally, and the drive through the countryside made us all smile. The Foire-aux-fleurs (Flower Fair) was lots of fun and we all bought something, mostly plants. I got some oregano and lemon verbena, which smells marvelous, as well as some country ham and sausages for snacks. We had lunch at the hotel in the middle of the square (nice salad with hard-boiled eggs for an entrée, mussels in delicious sauce—well worth mopping up with a crusty baguette, and chocolate mousse), then drove home through Pujols, to which we will return at a later date.

Monday, April 22: Jerry spent all day mowing and I planted some more seeds and flowers. In the afternoon, I (for the first time) took the Clio into St. Medards to Carol’s house for a gathering of “crafty” women doing sewing and knitting. One of the ladies is French, and we spent at least a half hour speaking that beautiful language. The rest are English or Irish, but have been here long enough to learn more than I. It was fun and we planned a lunch for next Monday. 

Tuesday: Went again to the market at Aiguillon (not quite as extensive as the Friday market), picked up a few things and took the long way home, passing Lac de Salabert, a purported bird haven, but there was just one Crested Grebe. We finally found Le Ferme de Ramon, home of foie gras and associated products. They have four stores in the area, which explains why we kept missing the turns—we were following different routes. They raise the ducks and geese organically, and they have (pour les animaux) much better lives than most of the animals we eat in the US.  We bought some of their wares and are looking forward to sampling them. I had a major breakthrough this afternoon. Drove into Colayroc-Saint Cirq and had a hair cut and color. I feel much better without the circle of white at my crown. We had swordfish (which I made with a sauce of garlic, lemon, butter and parsley), asparagus and lettuce from the garden for dinner. 

At St. Leger, situated at the meeting point of the Garonne and the Baise, we found the lock where boats joining the Garonne need to be lowered.

Fiona has given us a list of local market days, and I suspect most of our shopping will be done at them. Asparagus and strawberries have just come in. We found another, unexpected, market at Port Sainte Marie. Jerry found some eggplant plants (aubergines) and our hostess found an old mirror. We learned that when bargaining at such a market, we say we are from Bezans or Valle de la Masse, not being specific, as that will cause prices to rise dramatically. She showed us the supermarket, which she declared to be rather "ordinary", but which will be our source for paper and cleaning goods. Jerry also picked up some seeds: haricots buerre, radishes, peas and cucumber. He is going to enjoy working the garden, which already has plants: tomato, chili peppers, zucchini (courgettes), lettuces, pumpkin, onions, and some cabbage.  

Thursday

We took off about ten for “the Gascony Hills” tour, about 100 km in the south the Garonne Valley, in a rolling countryside, home to the Brulhois vineyards, although there were far fewer vines than similar areas in Tuscany. Our first stop was Serignac sur Garonne. Sérignac has an interesting heritage with its arcaded square and half-timbered houses. There is also a Romanesque church, the church of Our Lady of SsG” whose helical tower was designed in the sixteenth century. It consists of a twisted arrow octagonal base, covered with slates. This type of tower is unique in Aquitaine. We drove on towards Montagnac/Auvignon and then Sainte Colombe in Bruilhois, an ancient fortified village which looks out over the Garonne. At Moncaut we had a panoramic view over the hills and saw a 12th century church. At Laplume, we turned off to visit the 11th century Clunaic priory of Moirax. In 1049, Guillaume Arnaud, lord of the place, presented Cluny a church dedicated to the Virgin to establish a priory and get rid of all his sins. It is certified as the oldest in the region, situated on the Pilgrims’ Route of Saint-Iago de Compostela. 

The construction of the new church lasted a century, from 1060 to 1140. In the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, the monastery suffered the effects of the Hundred Years War and religion. It was partially burned. In the mid-seventeenth century, the church was restored, and the monastery buildings re-erected. Monastic life resumed. However, the revolution put an abrupt end to this new prosperity. In 1792, the archives were burned and convent goods sold. The carvings on the top of the capitols remain vibrant and compelling. In Fals, a village in the heart of the Brulhois vineyards, a church dominates the landscape.  Through Caudecoste, a 13th century bastide, to Layrac, then back to Port Sainte Marie and our two o’clock lesson in French. It was very good and we will return. The instructor was a Moroccan lady who speaks five languages. In the class were two Moroccan ladies, a Polish couple, two Portuguese, an Englishman, and two Americans (Jerry and me). The classes had stared in September, so everyone was ahead of us, but it was fun, and having so many people mad it hard to fail. There is a two week vacation, and then classes resume May 13, on Mon.,Tue., and Thu. Stopped at the Intermarche and came home for a dinner of foie gras-stuffed duck breast, fresh asparagus, Roquefort cheese, and radishes with butter and sea salt.

After breakfast on Sunday, we had another tour of the surrounds, including the market at Prayssas, where we had a cafe in the sunshine, and picked up a few things.

Gail South

monks created real working farms. This world, where religion was omnipresent, was to undergo profound changes during the 12th century, the age of feudalism. As the population of Europe increased, more land was cleared, farming techniques improved, towns developed and trade increased. So did rivalry between areas of power, between nobles and kings. The feudal system was based upon "tributes", pledges between vassals and lords for mutual assistance and complicated bonds of interdependence. The ultimate rivalry was between the Dukes of Aquitaine (also English Kings), and the Kings of France, each of whom granted the right of bastide creation to their noble vassels. The increasing rivalry was such that each one placed their bastides like so many pawns on the Aquitaine chessboard, and their numbers almost always were equal to each other. The bastides were founded upon deeds or contracts which organized the life of the community by defining the rights and duties of everyone. The peasants were attracted by the promise of prosperity. To avoid the introduction of legal disparities, nobles and clerics were not accepted in the new towns. The population was young, tasks varied according to seasonal work, living conditions were hard and the life style harsh. However, gradually social stability allowed the emergence of a bourgeoisie made up of wealth farmers, craftsmen and traders. The power of royalty was concentrated and the power of individual nobles was decreased. Today, these bastide market towns make up the majority of the French Aquitaine.

Sunday: This morning (a very cold one), Carol came by Le Pecile and we drove about 45 minutes to Dondas and the Church of St. Martin. What a lovely little white stone church, with lots of light, pretty windows and a very spring-like feel! We met everybody at the service (about twenty people), which is held here (in this Roman Catholic church) about four times a year. Mike got out his keyboard to accompany the hymns, and Paul Vrolijk, the Dutch Chaplain of the Aquitaine celebrated the Mass. He has a huge area to cover (it took him an hour and 15 minutes to get to Dondas), about the size of Wales, a bit smaller than New Jersey. It was a very nice service, a bit less formal than ours at Holy Innocents, and afterward we were invited to lunch at the home of Dave and Maggie Lee. With Angela and Heico Hanford, there were seven of us at their charming hilltop home, newly built atop some very old ruins. There was a great deal of food, all delicious. Everyone had brought something (I took deviled eggs, as it seemed appropriate for an Anglican lunch). I can’t continue to eat enormous lunches and come home and rest. Shirley and Jerrold had invited us to come by for drinks at their place about 6:30. It is a wonderfully restored, very old (12th century) stone house surrounded by gorgeous gardens. They have been working on it for thirty years, and the effort has surely paid off. There is a walk-in fireplace big enough for any sized Santa and big windows with a breath-taking view. Their friends Jean-Jacques and Bernard joined us, and the “drinks” turned into a lavish supper, with pates, cheeses, tomatoes, strawberries and a fresh salad Jerry and Bernard picked from the latter’s garden. When we got home, it was after ten, and he farmer who rents half of the Warner’s land was still plowing.

The main part of the chateau is on two levels, with a main entry foyer open to both. Two- story glass doors frame the stoned walled entry, and through them a beautiful open wood stairway ascends to the bedrooms above. To the left is a big formal dining room that overlooks the estate. To the left of that is the great open kitchen, very modern, with all appropriate appliances, stone counter tops, and cabinets made from some of the 18th century walnut of the original home. There are many small rooms opening off the main rooms, including a “man-cave” with satellite TV, a laundry room, a “dog room” with a cheese cupboard, a mud room for coats and Wellies (boots), and Fiona’s study. Many of the original stone walls have been re-pointed and left exposed. To the left of the entry is a formal salon with fireplace and a warren of unfinished rooms now used for storage.
Upstairs, our suite is on the right, also overlooking the estate, with a two-roomed bath and dressing room. To the right are four more bedrooms and assorted baths, and a fifth bedroom, now reserved for the second of Warner’s four sons is up a set of stairs into the east Tower.
There are lots of out-buildings. From the mudroom, you descend to the salt-water swimming pool (formerly “le petite etable”), beyond which are the walls of a larger stable. Then some interior courtyards and a chapelle where the tractors and other farm equipment are kept. The chicken coop and yard are on the right side of the terrace, although there is but one “chook” now in residence with a feral cat. There is a law here that “big” poultry operations can only keep their chickens in close proximity to each other for two years, then the stock must be removed and the place fumigated before new chickens are reintroduced. When that happens, the old birds are sold for 50p or 1€. We’re hoping to get some when the “Reformee Poule” signs appear. Fiona warned us not to pick up these chickens by the feet, as their prior treatment renders the legs as brittle as glass and they will break.

In addition to the "livestock", we have responsibility for Zulu, the 10-year old Rhodesian Ridgeback. He is big and rather unresponsive to commands, but well-trained as far as feeding and going outside is concerned. We will get on quite well, I think. He hates the cat and chicken, so is not allowed near them.  

France~Aquitaine, 2013   Part 1

Sunday: The second day of Ferme en Ferme was bright and clear, if cold. We met Carol in Prayssas and drove to the pig farm (#26) Estiguederne in Montpezat.  A marvelous aroma filled the air and we spied five piglets roasting on a spit. We took the tour and saw various ages in pens and then the grown pigs in the woods, where they forage for acorns and other goodies. In the main dining area, we met up with ten other English people and took our places at a long table. We began with a plate of cold meat and pate, followed by that delicious roast pork (but, very oddly, they throw away the scrumptious crispy skin) and French fries, then strawberries (somehow you never tire of them). Bottles of red and rose wine kept appearing on the table, and, before we knew it, it was three o’clock. So we took our leave and visited La Maison de la Noisette (#25), the House of Hazlenuts, in Lacepede. Who would have dreamed you could make so many things from this simple nut? We sampled a crepe with hazelnut butter and chocolate, then visited the shop with products ranging from raw nuts to cooking oils and cosmetic oils and soaps. We drove home through more beautiful countryside and went to bed early.

Wednesday: Worked around the house today. Jerry did a lot outside. I planted the last of the geraniums and cleaned the teak chairs in preparation for oiling them. Things are looking good: the poppies are blooming, the lilies are starting to open, and some of the seed of the annuals are up. Jerry grilled a sausage from our farmer, and we had fresh peas and carrots and sweet radishes. We had bought four types of Roquefort from the cheese lady yesterday, and so we had a tasting and could tell the difference. Jerry liked the "de Papillion". which had a bit of a bite, and I preferred the "de Societe" which was like butter.The farmer re-plowed the fields yesterday and last night. Jerry thinks it needs some more go-through before it’s ready for seeds.

I need to explain a bit about the markets (marches) in these small towns. They are held on a regular day(s) each week and, while there are clothes, shoes, etc. sold there, they are mostly for fresh foods. The Intermarches are for shelf-stable goods. The market in Aiguillon is held Tuesday and Friday, and the end of the week is the bigger draw. Most of the stands are in pre-designated spots, and there are often signs explaining what is home-grown. So we have the “Plant lady” (who usually gives us un cadeau (gift) of another small plant when we buy from her. We are careful to return the pots we bought the week before), the “Asparagus lady”, the “Pork farmer,” the “Cheese stand,” etc. I am looking forward to watching the seasons change in these markets.

Hasannia arrived shortly after three to do a bit of cleaning while I seasoned some duck legs with fresh herbs and garlic, which we’ll have with lettuce from the garden for our dinner. The Warner’s friend Francis stopped by to get Fiona’s email to send her some furniture photos for possible purchase. 

Friday: Blustery and overcast, but Zulu lasted for the whole walk this morning. Went into Port Ste. Marie and asked at the Mairie for French lessons. They weren’t too helpful, so I think I will call the lady recommended by Prayssas. Then off to the market at Aiguillon. It was excellent and crowded. We saw Shirley and Jerrold and Francis, 60% of the people we know in France. Shirley clued us in on the best stalls, and we got some beautiful white asparagus from “the asparagus lady” and some pork chops from our pig farmer neighbor in Vallee de la Masse. Also some fresh peas which I will shell for dinner. We also bought a large flat of geraniums for pots outside and Jerry found a sweet pepper plant. The radishes in the garden have raised their heads into the light. We came home a long way about, following the Lot et Garonne map and the Agen circuit “Tour of the two valleys”.  Started in Buzet sur Baise, where we stopped at the famous local wine cooperative and bought some product to try, a dry white, Chateau Loustalet, and a robust red, Baron d’Ardeuil. In Damazan, a bastide founded in 1256, we saw the old walls with circular corner towers. At St. Leger, situated at the meeting point of the Garonne and the Baise, we found the lock where boats joining the Garonne need to be lowered. In the little town of Nicole, we climbed a winding road to the Pech de Berre, a 160 metre promontory with a superb view of the meeting of the Lot and Garonne. The village of Clairac is situated on a terrace overlooking the Lot. It was developed when Pepin the Short decided to found a Benedictine Abbey on the site in 767. The Abbey’s monks were the originators of the area’s two main crops, tobacco and the Ente plum. There is currently a Cistercian retreat next to the ruins of the Abbey. I would like to come back here when it’s warmer. More views of the Lot in Laparade and Castlemoron-sur-Lot, both towns worth a longer visit later on. Came home and planted the geraniums. They will look very nice on the steps. I may get some more at the next market in Aiguillon.

Took a trip to shop. Got gas, and the card worked after we turned it upside down, so maybe that was the problem. First, we stopped at the town hall in Prayssas to inquire about French lessons. The very helpful gentleman gave us the phone number of a teacher. I will call her but first will try Port Ste. Marie to see if there are free lessons there. Found the Castorama (Home Depot de France) where we picked up some garden supplies, light bulbs and teak cleaning and finishing stuff. Then to the Intermarche for food. Lots of garden and plant places along the route. Got some basil and chive plants. It seems most places close for lunch from 1 to 2 or so, so we couldn't get asparagus for Jerry. Lunched "en plein aire" on grilled pork chops (there really is a difference with locally raised, organic food). Braided some daffodil leaves and planted the herbs.

Thursday: Woke up to a fine drizzly mist. Zulu abandoned me after about five minutes and returned to his warm bed. It actually turned out to be a good day to work. Jerry strimmed (trimmed) almost all day and the grounds look great. I planted annual seeds all along the front. Hopefully, by June the place will be full of color. I was thinking about how much the Marilyns (F & T) would love these gardens. The most prevalent plant is lavender, and when it blooms both the bees and my nose will be very busy. The bulbs are mostly finished, although a few jonquils are holding on, and the irises and peonies are resplendent. Fiona had planted a few new rose bushes with a very old-fashioned fragrance before she left. The wisteria and lilacs are also keeping the bees active. 

Note to those who are wondering where my birds photos are: Although we hear many songbirds in the early morning and evening, we haven' really seen any but ravens, blackbirds, sparrows, collared doves, pigeons, etc. There is one pair of kestrels (larger than ours) and some buzzards flying around, and an odd bird called the hoopoe, which I've only seen in Africa . They are all around, but I haven' been able to get a photo, yet. This is one I took in India , but I hope to have a French one before summer.  

In the little town of Nicole, we climbed a winding road to the Pech de Berre, a 160 metre promontory with a superb view of the meeting of the Lot and Garonne .

They are about a month ahead of us, and all the fruit trees are in blossom. We have a great many cherry trees on a terrace, and across the valley is an orchard of walnut trees covered in snowy white flowers. We unpacked and had a good look around.  We went to bed before ten, but didn't get to sleep till much later, then slept till after eight.There are lots of out-buildings. From the mudroom, you descend to the salt-water swimming pool (formerly "le petite etable"), beyond which are the walls of a larger stable.

Saturday, April 20: Another chilly morning, with off and on cloudiness. Met Carol Spires at 10:30 at the Intermarche on the road to Agen, then drove into town for an introductory tour. We parked in a huge lot by the river and took a free mini-bus into the heart of town. This capital of Lot-et-Garonne, lies on the broad, powerful River Garonne. The medieval center is a core of old lanes lined with handsome brick houses, several churches and an art museum. We started at the “Place des Laitiers” (the Dairy Market), which was the forum of the old Gallo-Roman town and the square of the original cathedral. There was a big farmers’ market in full swing, and across the way was the indoor market, where we browsed and Jerry found some morels. We only bought four for tomorrow’s breakfast, as they were rather dear at 45 euros a kilo. Then we walked p to the tower of Notre Dame du Chapelet, the oldest monument still visible in town. It was originally a defensive tower, with its lower sections built of stone in the 11th century. It later became the belfry of the Benedictine monastery. We peeked inside the Cathedral, then found the Museum of Fine Arts, which is closed for reconstruction. The sign says it will reopen in May. Carol says, “Maybe.” Next door is the Ducourneau Theatre, an Italianate theatre whose foundation stone was laid in 1906 by the President of the Republic. We had a wonderful three-course lunch at Le Part des Anges. Jerry had an escargot/egg dish, veal kidneys, and a cheese course for dessert. Carol had scallops in a cauliflower sauce, then sweet-and-sour duck, with a sweet cake soaked in liqueur for dessert. I had foie gras (delicious), then the same duck, and a warm chocolate soufflé for dessert. We walked (we needed it) to the Church of our Lady of the Jacobins, the former chapel of the Dominican monastery, erected in 1249. It is a paragon of simplicity and light, its austerity a reaction to the advance of Catharism. It has been restored to house major art exhibitions and we were fortunate to view one of them. We thought it had ended April 15, but has been very popular and was extended to April 28. "Agen as seen by its painters” consists of views of the city by Agen artists and includes watercolor drawings by Gustave Bohm and watercolors by Louis Lasbourygues, among others. The works were beautifully arranged and hung, and Carol identified many of the locations for us. We walked back to the car park and along the river esplanade for a bit, then drove home, did our chores, and rested.

Between 1120 and 1370, the south-west of France was divided between the French and English crowns. The two monarchies created almost 350 new towns called bastides, which were open settlements. The Capetian and Plantagenet kings used them to strengthen their economic and political power. While they were all created in the same unique and elaborate Aquitaine-style of straight lines of streets and courtyards with a central market square and a church and cemetery set slightly apart, each town shows some individual differences. Medieval societal patterns had seemed, like their buildings, to be set in stone. There were the ones who prayed (clergy), the ones who fought (nobility), and the ones who worked (peasants, by far the majority). Every man had his place ordered by God. Revolt was inconceivable. Most agricultural development was controlled by the abbeys, where 

Friday, April 12, 2013

Cool and rainy day in Beach Haven. Ellen and Bill Kehr picked us up about 11 for an uneventful ride to the Newark airport. We stopped at the Spanish Tavern for an excellent lunch, checked in, passed through security and boarded on time. Arrived at Charles de Gaulle a bit early, about 7 am , and followed the signs for the train. It was a very comfortable four-hour trip to Bordeaux, where the train emptied out. We sat for a few minutes, then realized that we needed to transfer to a different train for Agen. Running with four suitcases plus extras was a challenge. When we arrived at the new platform, the train was closed and ready for departure. The conductor took pity on the aged Americans and reopened the doors. There were no seats left, but we settled in for the one hour trip. The owner was waiting when we arrived and drove us to our new home (for three months).

This is absolutely beautiful countryside. Very rural with tiny medieval towns scattered about. The trip from Agen  would have taken about 20-25 minutes, but our hostess showed us around a bit. We were rather shop-worn, but I know we will enjoy exploring. The chateau sits high on a hill overlooking the Vallee de la Masse.

Friday: Cold and misty all day. I tried to hang the sheets outside, but they just dripped, so I brought them into the laundry where there is a unique clothes hanged on a pulley which lowers from the ceiling. They should be dry by evening. Hassania came today and did the floors and dusting. She didn’t come yesterday because she has so many jobs. Jerry visited the dump and found that they do, indeed accept plastic as well as glass.

Saturday, April 27: It’s about 5:30 and we just got home from Le Lot-et-Garonne de Ferme en Ferme, a weekend set aside each spring when seventy-five different farms open their doors to the public. We had the officially numbered map and chose six in the Coeur d’Albret region, southwest of where we live, and had a wonderful time and a grand variety of experiences. We began at #60, the Ferme de Caussens, near Montagnac sur Auvignon, where sheep and wild pigs are raised. It is also a Gite, so people can visit for a weekend vacation. We bought two wild boar sausages to eat at home and some wild boar pate for snacks. Then we drove to Moncrabeau and met Rene Wenk, the owner of a fruit farm. He showed us the strawberries grown up in the air, in plastic troughs filled with dirt, with an enhanced watering system. He says it’s very easy on the back. They were delicious, and HUGE! He also grows raspberries, apples, cherries, apricots and kiwi. I had never known how kiwi is produced. It is on thick stumps that resemble grapevines, and the branches are pruned each year to keep the fruit at a reasonable level. Very, very productive plants. We tasted some of his juices and bought three bottles of sparkling cherry/apple juice. On to Chateau de la Grangerie (#72) in Lannes, a converted 12th century monastery. Today they produce Armagnac here. It is an eau-de- made ​​by distilling dry white wines. We sampled three different vintages, 1990, 1992, and a seven-year old most suitable for cooking. The 1990 tasted the best to us, so we bought a small bottle. We didn’t care for the very sweet Floc also produced here, so passed on buying any of that. The fourth stop was a dairy farm (#70) in Mezin with very good yogurt, and the fifth, was #75, Pireau, in Sainte Maure de Peyriac. Here they raise the famous Blondes d’Aquitaine (no, not Katherine Hepburn), but big beef cattle. It was after one o’clock, so we decided to lunch here and had a big meal of beef bourguignon, beef kebab, beef sausage, roasted potatoes with lots of parsley and garlic and fresh strawberries for dessert. With a glass of wine it cost 10 euros. We toured the farm afterwards, accompanied by a gaggle of teenagers all very anxious to practice their English. We bought a big jar of the delicious stew to have the night Sarah arrives. Finally we drove back to Feugarolles to the Chateau d’Salles (#64), very close to home, where we sampled some of their red wines and bought some Rouge 2009, a bronze medal winner last year. On the way home, we stopped at the Buzet co-op and got some Rose for the picnic. We’re certainly looking forward to doing it again tomorrow.

Thursday: Same morning story—very foggy in the valley, but not so cold. I worked on the teak chairs and got four more scrubbed, sanded and oiled. Four to go. I will try and get another coat on before we go and will suggest that Fiona do one more before she closes for the winter. Jerry worked in the garden and got most of the weeds pulled.  The sun had come out, so we decided on a drive. We had passed through the Saint-Sardos area, but decided to start there because of its history.

The War of Saint-Sardos was a short war fought between the Kingdom of England and the Kingdom of France in 1324. The war was a clear defeat for the English, and led indirectly to the overthrowing of Edward II of England. The war is often seen as one of the precursors of the Hundred Years' War. During the reign of King Philip IV of France, the king gradually expanded his authority at the expense of the nobles. One of the chief tools in this process was the Parlement of Paris, which allowed people to appeal the decisions of lower courts, under the jurisdiction of the nobility, directly to the Crown. Edward II, King of England and, as Duke of Aquitaine, ruler of Gascony. The French kings wanted this last English foothold gone, and were very eager to settle disputes between the Duke and his subjects. Thus, unless he wanted a direct confrontation, Edward II could do little but watch the duchy dwindle away as numerous small cases were decided against him. One of these was the small village of Saint-Sardos. The village was within the jurisdiction of the Duke of Aquitaine, but it also contained a Benedictine priory and the priory's motherhouse, the Abbey of Sarlat, lay within France. In 1318, the abbot petitioned Parlement to declare Saint-Sardos exempt from the King-Duke's jurisdiction. He also offered to build a bastide there. The case proceeded slowly, but in December 1322, the Parlement ruled in the abbot's favour. In 15 October 1323, a royal sergeant arrived at Saint-Sardos and erected a stake bearing the Arms of the King of France. Local landowners were not too pleased. They feared that the new bastide would attract settlers from their own estates and thus diminish their own incomes. The night after the sergeant's arrival, Raymond-Bernard, lord of Monpezat, raided Saint-Sardos. He burned the village to the ground and hanged the sergeant at his own stake. Edward II had more than enough problems at home, and did not need a diplomatic crisis with France. As soon as the news reached him, he sent letters offering his apologies and proclaiming his innocence. He was not believed. Charles IV, now king of France, ordered his army to muster on the borders of Aquitaine in June and declared the duchy forfeit. In August ns The English were poorly prepared: many garrisons were little more than skeleton forces, and some locations had no troops at all. Aided by local nobles, Charles of Valois swept through the region and ended the war less than six weeks after it had begun. Most towns surrendered immediately. A truce was made which, as it turned out, would be the permanent end to this short conflict. The French were, for the time being, satisfied. However, the war reverberated loudly in English politics. Queen Isabella herself traveled to France to negotiate terms. She took her son Edward of Windsor, to whom Edward II had resigned Aquitaine and Ponthieu, that he might do homage for them. When they returned, it would be for the ruin of and Edward II himself.

Well, after reading all that history, we expected at least a ruined castle. But, alas, the town was tiny, with only a church, half of which now serves as the village grocery store, to be seen. During the war and the even longer conflict which followed, the priory was very badly damaged. The present church is the result of extensive work carried out in 1875. Of the former 12th century building, only the north wall remains with a splendid Romanesque portal. The ancient capitals are on display inside the church. They are the only relics to have survived the looting and pillaging of the past.  Still, looking out over the hills, we could imagine  some of what the peasants must have thought.

We had reservations for dinner at seven, so had some more time to explore. We made a grand circle, heading northeast through Castlemoron-sur-Lot and Monclar to Saint-Pastour, a bastide town high on a hill, then turned northwest to Miramont-de-Guyenne, another bastide town, but much larger and busier. South to Seyches and the lovely market town of Gontaud-de-Nogaret, with a central market building that was very, very old. Stopped at Lac de Salabert, and this time we did see a few birds: a pair of mallards, the great crested grebe, a pair of mute swans, and a poule d’eau (common moorhen). Nothing too exotic. Got back to Prayssas just at seven and found a new favorite restaurant, La Bastide St. Louis, in a guardroom built in the 12th century. With high vaulted ceilings and muted décor, and with American show tunes jazzily playing in the background, we had a true gourmet meal. I started with a “salade de regionne”: lots of new lettuces with tomato, beautifully poached chicken gizzards, dried breast of duck and a huge slice of foie gras, I ordered “une petite”, but it was meal-sized. For the main, I had tortellini in Roquefort sauce with generous slices of jamon piled around. Jerry had ordered the “menu”. He started with a plate of assorted charcuterie, then had roasted duck breast and vegetables. He also had a cheese plate and dessert coming, but “we” decided he should have the cheese and I should have the profiteroles (cream puffs with ice cream, chocolate syrup and whipped cream). As we rolled home, we decided to become regulars here, in our “hometown.” Hassania had done a great job of cleaning—she even did the mud room and the dog room. I feel very lucky.

The chicken coop and yard are on the right side of the terrace, although there is but one"chook" now in residence with a feral cat. There is a law here that "big" poultry operations can only keep their chickens in close proximity to each other for two years, then the stock must be removed and the place fumigated before new chickens are reintroduced. When that happens, the old birds are sold for 50p or 1 Euro. We'e hoping to get some when the"Reformee Poule" signs appear. We were warned us not to pick up these chickens by the feet, as their prior treatment renders the legs as brittle as glass and they will break.