EXTREMADURA--October, 2005
Father Frank blessed us at
church and prayed for our safe return. We left LBI about1:45, but, with various stops, didn’t get on the GSP til
almost 3. Parked at
Funny weather—brilliant sunshine and then sudden, brief squalls. Got to Loule easily. More difficult to find Turismo. The lady there directed us to the catalplana (a hammered copper pan I am looking for) man, but the price was 3 pans for $350 and that seemed too much, so we left.
Loule—(9.5 mi north)—market
town in the “chimney country” of the
14k n on N396 to rt 2 then 45 k n to Almodovar continue north 21 k through Castro Verde 23 k to Beja (69 mi)
The landscape changed from undulating hills in the south to stark flatlands with forests of cork and eucalyptus north of Castro Verde.
Stopped for lunch by the side of the road at Café Abobora in Pogueno. We had the recommended lunches: roasted chicken and cutlets of pork with fries and the normal accompaniments (bread, olives, and wine). North 81 k. Saw a beautiful rainbow on the way to Evora (54 mi)
We saw vineyards and stork nests everywhere—the nests are built on platforms with wooden bases at the top—much like osprey nests in NJ and FL
One of the most impressive and enjoyable
cities in
Evora was shaped by its Roman and Moorish occupations: the former is commemorated by a temple, the latter by a characteristic tangle of alleys, rising steeply among the whitewashed houses. Most of the city’s other monuments, however, date from the 14thto the 16thc, when E prospered under thepatronage of the ruling House of Avis. To them are owed the many noble palaces scattered about the city; as are the Jesuit university, founded in 1559by Cardinal Henrique, the future “Cardinal King”; and the wonderful array of Manueline and Renaissance buildings.
The Cathedral and several other churches in this city were constructed of red stone, which contrasted against the white mortar is quite alluring but inconsistent with most of the other grand Gothic monuments, which are for the most part built of a cream colored stone.
Found the Turismo in the main Praca do Giraldo. The
lady there gave me a list of accommodations. The
We walked and walked and saw the outside of St.Francis and
the Se, which we plan to visit tomorrow. We also saw the
We had checked out all the restaurant menus and were about to return to the one with the most Alentejo specialties when we found O Garfo just a bit down the Rua do Caldeireiros—very small but bright and clean (except for a lot of fruit flies which were to plague us all throughout our trip). The waiter/owner? didn’t speak any English, but our food vocabulary is pretty international. After olives, bread and cheese, we had Carne de Porco and Alentejana pork cooked with clams, potatoes, tomatoes and vegetables (in a catalplana, no doubt)—I couldn’t finish it, so Jerry did ($28 with house wine).
Returned home, showered and to bed.
Had a good buffet breakfast and then set off under blue
skies and pleasant temperatures to see St. Francis. We arrived
about8:45, but it wasn’t open yet, so we went over to the restored Palacio de
Dom Manuel, the king who gave his name to the style, in the Jardim
Publico. Lots of peacocks and cats. We went
back and after a short wait, a man opened the Capilla. The most intriguing
Catholic edifice, the ChurchofSaoFrancisco(
E’s cathedral, theSe(9-12:30&2-5), was begun in 1186, about 20 yearsafter the reconquest of E from the Moors. The Romanesque solidity of its original battlemented towers and roofline contrasts sharply with the pointed Gothic arches of subsequent and less militaristic additions, like the porch and central window. The interior is more straightforwardly Gothic, although the choir and high altar were remodeled in the 18thc by the German, Frederich Ludwig, architect of the Convent at Mafra. For a nominal fee you can clamber onto a terrace above the west entrance and take an unusually close look at the towers and the zimborio(the lantern above the crossing of the transepts). Don’t miss the cathedral museum (9-11&2-4:45)) either: it’s stuffed with treasures and relics the prize exhibits being a reliquary studded w 1426 stones and a carved statue of the Madonna whose midriff opens out to display layered scenes from the Bible.
Having been disappointed in the catalplana man yesterday, we asked at the hotel and were given the name of a shop near the youth hostel where we might find one. Eventually we found the shop and got just what I had wanted for$69—handmade and perfect. Back to check out and on our way. On the way out of town we saw the Aqueduct inside the city walls with houses and shops built beneath its arches.
Tue morning
Drove through lots of cork and olive trees toEvoramonte
This medieval village lies just 1 km above the modern village on the N18. It is signposted “Castelo d’Evoramonte” and is a tiny fortified town, once occupied by the Moors and the Romans. Its walls, constructed between the14thand the 17thc. perch on the mountain high above theplain. It is a fascinating place, remote and, despite the fortifications, almost palpably peaceful. The ancient castle, whose Gothic style is a 14thc remodeling of an older structure, dominates the village. The massive keep was designed in Italian Renaissance-style in the 16thc, with 4round towers and a simple decorative Manueline twisted stone rope. The vaulted chambers inside contain granite capitals that have been elaborately carved. The castle wasn’t open, but we walked thru the little town and admired the 360 degree views. The Turismo was open and I got a pretty little olive dish for $2.50.
Drove past Estremoz and into Borba where we stopped at the huge Adega Cooperativa deBorba and bought some bottles of Tinto and one of aguardente velha (a brandy). Then we walked through the town—the church wasn’t open, but a lot of antique stores were. Missed the heavily advertised festival de laVinha e lo Vinho (vineyards and wine) from 11/9-16.
Borba, the town of marble. In the village, marble is king. Along the streets many cottages have door trimmings and facings of marble, and the women get down on their hands and knees to scrub their doorways, a source of special pride to them.
Borba was retaken from the Moors in 1217 and is best known
for its Alentejoregional wine. However, its history is quite
bloody especially in 1662 when occupied by the troops led by John of Austria.
Nearby in the plains of Monte Claros this army was soundly defeated by the
Conde de Marialva. Given a town charter by King Dinis, Borba is the centre
of an administrative area which is small but fiercely proud of its identity.
This identity dates back to the very foundation of
OnRua S. Bartolomeu sits a church, also dedicated to S. Bartholomeu. It contains a groined ceiling; walls lined with azulejos in blue, white, and gold; and an altar in black and white marble. The richly decorated ceiling is painted with four major medallions, one depicting decapitation. As Portuguese churches go, this one isn’t remarkable. What is remarkable, however, are eight nearby antique shops filled with interesting buys.
Then back toward Estremoz, where we stopped at a Pingo Doce and picked up picnic supplies. We headed north, stopped for lunch, and got to Portalegre about 3. We drove around looking for Turismo for a long time. Asked for lodging twice and on the third try, found a home at Pensao Nova, Rua 31Jan. Frommer was right about the “run-down” part, but it will be fine fo rthe night ($40 with breakfast).
Portalegre is the capital, market center and transport hub of Alto Alentejo. It is an attractive town, crouched at the foot of the Serra de Sao Mamede, endowed with the province’s usual contingent of whitewashed and walled old quarters, along with some interesting reminders of its industrial history. These include a cork factory, whose great twin chimneys greet you on the way into town, and a tapestry workshop, the last remnant of a thriving period of textile production in the 17thand18thc. The wealth produced in these years, in particular from silk workshops, has a further legacy in a collection of grand mercantile mansions and town houses, which give the town an air of faded affluence. The town’s boom years in the 17thc are immediately apparent as you walkup Rua 19 de Junho—the main thoroughfare of the old town—which is lined by a spectacular concentration of late-Renaissance and Baroque mansions. At the southern end of the street, and dominating the quarter, is the Se, an austere building save for a flash of fancy in the pyramidal pinnacles of its towers; look inside at the beautiful 16thc azulejos.
We followed signs to the Castle—not worth the $1
admission—besides which it was POURING when we left (as in
The most interesting visit in town was to the Fabrica Real de Tapecarias. They have now discontinued the tours of the factory, but we were taken on a most interesting tour of the new museum by an English-speaking guide($1.80) The tour took us through the studios and weaving hall—where 5000shades of wool are used in the reproduction of centuries-old patterns—and on to a gallery displaying works about to be dispatched to their well-heeled patrons.
We had dinner at Residencial O Facha, Largo Antonio Jose Lori, which Frommer had described as expensive. We found it to be very reasonable ($30). I had ameijo catalplana which is clams the way I plan to fix them for Thanksgiving and Jerry had Avorra de Mariscos. It was disappointing. It was supposed to be fish soup, “dry” served over rough country bread with eggs on top. It was fish stock infused with fake crabmeat on top. No fish, no eggs. There was plenty of catalplana so he finished that.
Left Portalegre (not a very good breakfast, and bad news on TV—10thsniper killing in DC) and easily found the road to
Crato--The road is lined with cork trees that look like elegantly sheathed ladies with upturned, glove-clad arms. Bags of fresh bread were hanging on door knobs. An ancient agricultural town which has clearly seen better days and larger populations. A trio of imposing, ornate churches and the elegant Varanda do Grao Priorin the main square attest to the textile boom years of the 16thc. This is the most interesting of the structures—built for the outdoor celebration of mass. We followed the N363 northwest towards Aldeia daMata. On the left side of the road, about 5km from town, is what is reckoned to be the best preserved dolmen in P. We drove around a framer’s field, scaring the brave fighting bulls, looking for it, but didn’t find it til we were on the way out.
Alter do Chao--stud farm
This is another town that did well in the 16thc textile years, as indicated by its attractive Renaissance marble fountain and an array of handsome town houses. There is a castle, too, whose central tower can be climbed for an overview of the region, but the chief reason for a visit is the Coudelariade Alter-Realstud farm, 3 km out of town. It was founded in 1748 by Dom Joao V of the House of Braganca, and remained in the family until 1910 when the War Office took it over. Admission is $2.50 and includes a tour of the interpretive center, horse stalls (big, scary studs), riding school, an interesting exhibit gallery (Man & the Horse), the coach museum, the mares and foals stalls. The “hotel” where breeding mares stay waiting to be “fecundated”, and a falconry center.
Flor da Rosa
This upland district is a bucolic landscape, with tree-clad
mountain ranges and a series of gorgeous hilltop villages two km north of
Crato. Traditionally a center for pottery, with as many as seventy
families engaged in the trade in the early part of the century. Today the
distinctive olaria of the region is made in only two workshops, whose shared
kiln is near the convent, high above the broad streets and low
houses. Their methods of manufacture haven’t changed in
centuries, though the clay—yellow for waterproofing and grey for ovenware—has
to be sought further and further afield. Purchases break easily, but it’s
nice to know that these functional (and inexpensive) pieces aren’t designed for
the tourist trade (they were nothing to write hom about). The Convento
de Flor da Rosa, founded in the 14thc and much endowed over
the next 200 years, was abandoned in 1897, due to leaking roofs and a decaying
structure. After extensive state restoration, the fortress monastery
finally reopened in 1995 as one of P’s most lavish pousadas. It is still
possible to see inside, though, and to look round the gardens, laid out in the
insignia of the Order of
Stopped by the wayside to eat apples and yesterday’s cheese
Marvao--25 km—Beautiful as Castelo de Vide is,Marvao surpasses it. Try to spend at least 2 hours
exploring its old streets, perhaps stopping to coffee at thePousada
deSantaMariawhich stands in the upper levels of town sandwiched between two
impossibly narrow cobblestone streets. The panoramas from its remote eyrie
site are unrivaled and the atmosphere even quieter that a population of less
than a thousand would suggest. No more than a handful of houses—each as
scrupulously whitewashed as the rest—lies outside the
17thc walls. Just under 4 miles from the Spanish frontier, the
once-fortified medieval stronghold retains a rich flavor of the Middle Ages. You get there by following a road around
the promontory on which the little town was built, past the
Cross to
Land of the Conquistadors--It's estimated that some 15,000 Extremeños (from a total population of 400,000) went to seek gold in theNew World. The most fabled of these adventurers were Hernán Cortés (from Medellín) in Mexico; Francisco Pizarro (from Trujillo)in Peru; Vasco Núñez de Balboa (from Jerez de los Caballeros) in Panama, where he first sighted the Pacific Ocean; Hernando de Soto (from Barcarrota) in Florida and beyond, discovering the Mississippi River; and Francisco Orellana (also from Trujillo) in Ecuador and the Amazon.
Thanks to these conquistadors, the names of Extremaduran
villages are sprinkled through the
Visitor Information--The tourist office, Plaza Mayor, 20(tel. 927-24-63-47), is open Monday through Friday from9amto2pmand4to6:15pm,Saturday and Sunday from9:30amto2pm.
Now partially deserted, it is a perfectly preserved village
of the late 15thc, built to replace the abandoned ancient settlement
of Alconetar. Until only a few years ago, this was one of the last
villages in
Originally Roman colony and later heavily disputed
between the Moors and Christians, C. is today a provincial capital
(Extremadura) and prosperous agricultural town, with the largest market fair in
Extremadura. In the Plaza de
HISTORY
The lands of Extremadura are steeped in history. The
paintings in MaltraviesoCave preserve traces of man in the
earliest stages of development. The Celts settled there, and in the 1st c, the
proconsul Cayo Urbano Flaco foundedone of the five most important colonies of
what used to be
CLIMATE,TRADITIONS, COOKING
In general, the climate is dry with hardly any rain and mild
because of the winds blowing across neighboring
There is a great variety of fish and game: Boar, Red deer, Spanish Ibex, Pheasant,Bustard, Heron, Crane, a lot of Partridge and Rabbit; and in the rivers, Carp,Tench, Trout, Pike and Perch. Game and fish provide the basis for an uncomplicated way of cooking, which is very tasty with many recipes coming from its important monasteries. Especially outstanding are el frite, la caldereta (a lamb stew) and the typical migas con torreznos.
To round off this list of specialties, special mention must be made of the famous Montánchez hams and sausage products as well as of the local wines.
THECITY
It lies 498 m above sea level, and has around 68,000
inhabitants. Although the modern part has its merits with clean, well laid out
streets and a lovely park, it is the old area with its historic sights that
draw the visitor's attention. Travelers get lost in its labyrinth of
medieval streets and plazas, under its arches, its towers and its battlements;
in its churches, beautiful convents and amazing palaces. They will discover a
mixture of styles in its architecture from the Arabic through the northern
Gothic, the Italian renaissance and the influential legacies of the
We saw lots of storks nesting on most of the rooftops and bell towers in the town. This is a revealing sign of how Cáceres has managed to preserve not only its landmarks but also an environmentally sound balance between people and nature.
We had a hard time finding the Parador but finally succeeded. It is on a tiny cobbled street inside the walls. It was originally a 15thc palace. Built in severe style it is in “a well scrubbed format of exposed stone, white plaster, and tiled floors.” Our room has a canopied bed, nice seating area, and excellent bathroom. We walked all over town and went into most of the churches, ending at Plaza Mayor at dusk. We went down to St. Iago and then window shopped up to the Plaza San Juan where we examined menus for half an hour.
We settled on El Figo de Eustagnia, 12&14, Plaza de
In the long Plaza Mayor, (Information) arcaded on its western side, is the entrance to the lively Calle General Ezponda, lined with tapas bars and full of animation in the evening. On the high ground on the eastern sid eof the PM are the town’s fortifications—intact though heavily restored—that contain one of the best-preserved old quarters in Spain. Some of the most appealing shops in Cáceres are on the streets radiating outward from the Plaza Mayor, with a particularly good selection of artifacts along either side of Calle Pintores.
The old town of
About 30 towers remain from the city's medieval walls, all of them heavily restored. Originally much taller, the towers reflected the pride and independence of their builders; when Queen Isabella took over, however, she ordered them cut down to size. The largest tower is at the Plaza del General Mola. Beside it stands the
Leading from here to the old town center is the Calle Ancha, at the beginning of which is theCasa de Sanchez de Paredes, a 16thc palacet hat has been converted into a parador.
On the Plaza San Mateo, at the northern end of the Calle
Ancha, stands one of the town’s most important churches,
House of the Monkey
Beginning at the Plaza of the Santa María, and continuing down the Hill of the Aldana we come to the Monkey’s House, admirable for its typical constructions, following the Gothic style, and so called because of the relief stone monkeys that so adorn the stairs of the house. In front of this house, there is a very interesting mudéjar style house, as well as the"Mansion of the Aldana" down the hill.
The narrow street that descends from the eastern end of
Inthe Plaza of Santa Maria, an irregularly shaped, rather elongated square, on the left is the gothic facade of the Episcopal Palace, once the residence of the bishop of Coria, and on the right the mud wall of the patio of the house of Mayoralgo. The cathedral constitutes the center of the low part of the city, with palaces and family houses of sober beauty. around.
The Gothic church o fSanta Maria, now serving as the town’s cathedral, was built mainly in the 16thc and has an elegantly carved cedar high altar of 1551, just about visible in the surrounding gloom. A gorgeous Romanesque-gothic church it was declared a cathedral in recent times. Its unmistakable silhouette with the nests of storks that crown it is visible all over. A bronze statue of San Pedro de Alcántara is at its base. It contains the remains of many conquistadors. It has three Gothic aisles of almost equal height and a carved retablo at the high altar dating from the 16th century. (Insert coins to light it up.)
Farther down the square, with vistas over the rolling landscape to the east of town, on the site of the old Alcazar, is the Casa de Las Veletas(House o fthe Weathervanes). This now contains a small provincial museum devoted to archaeology and folklore. Its basement comprises theMoorishcistern (alijibe) (12thc) over which the palace was constructed (The existence of a cistern in houses long ago was essential for domestic usage to provide drinkable water and sometimes they were lavishly decorated. They were often used in Roman and Visigothic homes); horseshoe arches rise in the gloom above murky waters fed by pipes leading from both the roof and the sloping square outside. (Admission—200 ptas. Open Tu-Sa 9:30-2:30,Su 10-2:30,closed M and holidays).
Estrella Arco (Arch of the Star)
This is one of the five access
gates to the village, near Mérida, the Fountain or Gate of the Council, of the
Succor and of the Wicket. In its interior, the Virgin of the Star is housed,
thus its name. This gate has been crossed by both Catholic
Kings, Isabel of Castille and Ferdinand V of
A100-m (110 yd) walk from here down Calle Tiendas will take you to the northern walls of the town. Turn left and you will come, in the northwestern corner of the old town, to the 16thcCasa de losToledo-Montezumas(now a bank), which was built by Juan Cano de Saavedra with the dowry provided by his wife—none other than the princess daughter of the Aztec ruler Montezuma. Follow the town walls south untilyou reach the Estrella Gate, which will lead you back to the main square.
Roman Arch of the Christ
Dating from the 1st. century, and built by the Romans, it is the oldest monument of the city, and it is situated near the "River Gate."
Arab Tower of Bujaco and Hermitage of the Peace
The
The
The last part of the complex of this plaza is the "House ofVargas-Figueroa", which was the living quarters of one of its most prestigous priests.
The chief building of interest outside the town walls is the
If you want to see a more modern face of the region, and
shop for housewares and fashion while you're at it, drive 15 minutes west of
the town center to the Centro Comercial Ruta de la Plata, Carretera
The silver way: from Astorga to
Merida. The
Got a good start under overcast skies. The weather has been strange, but good for traveling, changing from overcast to cloudless skies in minutes. The sun is warm, but we keep shedding and then putting jackets back on. We had lots of choices for today—the most important was to visit the Monastery do Yuste. The roads are very different from those shown in my 13 year old map book—everything is very up to date. We also saw several huge Torres (brandy) bulls outlined on the horizon atop hills. Still olives, cork and oranges, but now we are seeing lots of huge chestnut trees LOADED. Jerry says each one has more nuts that the total in PA. When we got to the monastery we discovered a major business conference was in session. We waited a bit then had a truncated tour ($1.50)of just the Palace. We sneaked a look into the church through the Emperor’s private peek window.
In a wooded setting 2 km north of EX203 (turn off at Cuacos,
45 km/27 mi fromPlasencia), was founded byHieronymitemonks in the
early 15thc. It was badly damaged in the Peninsular War and
left to decay after the suppression of
Then we drove on the tiny back road (on which Carlos was carried in his little box from Plascencia to the monastery) to La Garganta deOlla, a tiny very much alive, medieval town. We walked the streets and saw the Casa de las Munacas (Doll House), painted blue with pretty girls on the door post and around the locks, then climbed to the second floor of the Restaurante Los Leones where I had a stew of baby goat and Jerry had pigs cheeks, also a pitcher of vino piitarra, a regional wine so effervescent and young that they do not even bother to bottle it or keep it for the following year ($29). There is a bit of autumn color in the landscape and the roads are fine.
We turned south at Jarandilla toward Navalmoral de la
Mate. Stopped to buy goat cheese at a working dairy. Tobacco
seems to be another product grown here. Got to the Parador with little
trouble.
Thu night —Trujillo
Visitor Information--The tourist office, on the Plaza Mayor (tel. 927-32-26-77), is open April through October, daily from 9am to 2pmand from 4 to 7pm; off-season, daily from 9am to 2pm and from 4 to 6pm.
Ilike
Trujillo more than
We walked through town, becoming lost more than once, but everything is so compact and full of interesting sites that it didn’t matter. We saw lots of Conquistadors houses. The best was Palacido los Marquaras de la Conquisto.
We also saw the house of Francisco De Orellano, who traveled up the Amazon. I don’t know much about him, but the larger than life bust was impressive.
We went inside two churches,
Dating to at least Roman times, when its castle was first
constructed, T. was captured from the Moors in 1232 and colonized by a number
of leading military families. Known today as the “Cradle of the
Conquistadors,” T. gave birth to some of the leading explorers and conquerors
of the new World, men who were later to bring great wealth to their native town
and build here, in the course of the 16th&17thc, a
splendid series of palaces. The most famous of these conquistadors was
Francisco Pizarro, conqueror of
T’s economic boom during the period of Golden Age Spain led the town to expand well beyond its medieval walls. Then, from the mid-17thc onward, building ceased almost completely, and the town went into a long decline. Today, it is possible to wander endlessly and at random around its maze of streets and still uncover at every turn poignant memorials of its glorious past. A word of warning, however. Most of the streets leading up the hill converge on the Plaza Mayor. The town becomes progressively older the farther you climb, but even on the lower slopes—where most of the shops are concentrated—you need walk only a few yards to step into what seems like the Middle Ages.
The large Plaza Mayor, one of the finest in
Facing the church, in the northeastern corner of the square,
is the Palacio delos Duques de
The most interesting part of T extends to the west of the
PM. Your tour proper of the town could begin near the southwestern corner
of the square, outside the Palacio de los Marqueses de la Conquista. This
was built by Francisco Pizarro’s brother, Hernando and is immediately recognizable
y its rich covering of exquisite Renaissance ornamentation. Flanking its
corner balcony, around which most of this ornamentation is concentrated, are
lively, imaginative busts of the Pizarro family. On the left-hand side are
Francisco and his Aztec princess wife, Yupanqui Huaynas, while on the right is
Yupanqui’s daughter, Francisca Pizarro Yuanqui, together with her uncle and
husband, Hernando. Prominent in the coat of arms above, and an interesting
reflection of the spirit of brutal subjugation in which the conquest of the
Adjacent to the palace is the arcaded former town hall (now a law court), which has much Renaissance painted and stuccoed ornamentation inside. The alley that runs through this building’s central arch will take you to the Palacio dePizarro de Orellana(now a school), where you will find the most elegant Renaissance courtyard in town (Free; Open weekdays 9-1&4-8;closed weekends).
The oldest part of T, known as La Villa, is
entirely surrounded by its original, if much restored,
walls. The Calle Almenas, which runs west from the
The cobbled climbing street leads you into the Plaza de
Standing in isolation beyond this are the perimeter walls of the large castle, built by the Moors on Roman foundations. It is at the summit of the granite hill on which T. was founded. Once at the castle, you can climb its battlements and walk along the ramparts enjoying a panoramic view of the austere countryside of Extremadura.
We bought some snacks and headed back (we also got a bottle
of Beso Extremadua, the nutty beverage made from acorns).
Fri am--Logrosan
Beautiful morning across a wide valley with peaks of Sierras de Guadalupe in front of us—lots of sheep everywhere and black pigs feeding on acorns under the cork oaks.
If you could only visit a single site in Extremadura, the choice would have to be the monastery of Guadalupe. The journey here is in itself worthwhile through wild, breathtakingly beautiful mountain scenery—incredibly craggy mountains where every once in a while someone has cut out a little farm. Finally, we glimpsed the monastery clinging to the slopes above and forming with its towers, pinnacles, and spires a magical profile echoing that of the gaunt wall of mountains behind. Pilgrims have been coming here since the14thc, but only in relatively recent years have they been joined bya growing number of tourists.
The scene illustrates the major impression I have of
The story of Guadalupe goes back to around 1300, when a
shepherd uncovered a miraculous statue of the Virgin, this one supposedly
carved by St. Luke. Its fame might have been only local had it not come to
the attention of KingAlfonso XI, who frequently hunted here. Alfonso had a
church built to house the statue and later vowed to found a monastery, should
he defeat the Moors at the battle of
The village is filled with wood arcades and
russet-brown-tiled roofs; on sale everywhere is the copperware that
has been made here since the 16thc. In the middle of the tiny,
irregularly shaped main square (transformed during festivals into a bullring)
is a 15thcfountainwhere
To visit the monastery itself, we followed a guided tour
that lasted about an hour(the entrance to the building
is to the left of the church). From the large Mudejar cloister, with its
brick and tile Gothic-Mudejar shrine dating from 1405 and a Moorish fountain
from the 14thc. (the only place photography
was allowed), we progressed to the chapter house, with its collection of choir
books, illustrated manuscripts, and paintings, including a series of small
panels by Zurbaran that originally covered the predella of the sacristy
altarpiece and also a marvelous Goya and three el Grecos. Next through the
raised choir of the church, an excellent vantage point from which to view the
building’s Gothic nave and chancel, with its exquisite Renaissance grille and
high altar carved partially by one of El Greco’s sons. Mass was in session so
our guide was silent. The ornate 17thc sacristy contains the
monastery’s most important works of art—a series of eight painting of1638-47 by
Zurbaran. These powerfully austere works representing monks of the
Hieronymite order and scenes from the life of
We stopped for a picnic lunch at a nice site on the way down
the mountain, then straight on to
This is definitely not an old medieval town. We drove
around a bit and saw a sign for Parador Parking. As it happened, the gate
was opening as someone was exiting. We sneaked in and got the last
space. When we registered, the clerk tried to sell us a $9 garage
spot. He was very surprised when we said we were already
parked. There are lots of Roman artifacts in the halls. The room is
nice, but the tile in the bath needs a littleX14. We walked down to the
Roman theatre and Amphitheatre where we waited for a few minutes then got a map
and bought the $7.20 ticket good for six monuments. Visitor Information--The
tourist office, at Pedro María Plano (tel.924-31-53-53), is open April through
October, Monday through Friday from 9am to1:45pm and 5 to 7pm, Saturday from
9:15am to 1:45pm. Off-season hours are Monday through Friday from
The Roman Emerita Augusta was founded by the Romans in 25 BC
on the banks of theRiver Guadiana and strategically situated at the junction of
major Roman roads between Salamanca and Seville and Lisbon and Toledo, Merida
soon became capital of the vast Roman province of Lusitania (the Latin name for
ancient Portugal, which included parts of southwestern Spain), Mérida was one
of the most splendid cities in Iberia, ranking as a town of major importance in
the Roman Empire; in fact, it was once called a miniature Rome. A bishopric
in Visigothic times, M never regained the importance it had under the Romans. Its
monuments, temples, and public works make it the site of some of the finest
Roman ruins in
We walked past the very modern and very large Museo Nacional
de Arte Romano to th town’s best preserved Roman
monuments. The teatro, dating from 24BC, is notable for the
elegant colonnade on its stage. It is one of the best preserved Roman
ruins in the world and was built by Agrippa (Augustus’s son-in-law) in 19 BC to
house an audience of 6,000 people. Modeled after the great theatres of
The main square, the Plaza de Espana, adjoins the
northwestern corner of the fortress and is extremely animated both by day and
by night. Its oldest building is the 16thc palace that has
served for many years as the Hotel Emperatriz (VEx). Between this hotel
and the town’s stylish parador(VEx), stretches the
most charming and best-preserved area of
From Plaza de Espana, head north along the Calle Santa Eulalia, a lively pedestrian shopping street. Continue north along the Rambla Martir Santa Eulaliauntil you reach the church of that name, which was originally aVisigoth structure marking both the site of a Roman temple and the supposed place where the child martyr Eulalia, determined to die for her religion, was roasted alive in AD 304 for spitting in the face of a Roman magistrate. Other Roman works (Admission 400 ptas; Open Oct-May Tu-Sa 10-1:45&4-6, Su10-2). This was the neatest thing in Merida so far. Its refurbishment began in 1990. Archeologists have excavated four levels under the Basilica: Roman house, Christian necropolis, 5th-9thc basilica, and present day church. Above ground is an excellent interpretive center, then you descend to the actual excavations which are well lit and signposted. Most interesting.
Dinnerwas at
Sat.--Merida to Huelva 261 k--To Matascalas 30 k—195 miles
We left the parador and stopped at the excavation of a large, noble Roman house, Casa Mitreo (Mithraeum House). It is very interesting. The excavation is covered and the walls have been “topped off” so you can really follow the floorplan. Some of the mosaics are almost complete, and the one called Cosmological Mosaic, which personifies their conception of the world and of the natural forces governing it—the colors are the most brilliant I’ve ever seen.
We were on the road to
Stopped at Jabugo, about which we had read of its excellent Jamon iberico. The weekly market was going strong, but except for some apples and pears (the apples were a gift—un regalo) it was mostly sweaters and shoes. We walked around—very nice Plaza de Jamon—with a fountain and kids playing soccer. Then we had lunch (more expensive than we expected) at Meson Jabugo—asparagus with ham, some kinds of croquettes, an omelet and pork with mushrooms. We stopped at a market and got ham, olives and pate.
It took less than two hours to reach Matalascans, one and a half from the turn off for Aracena (our route for Monday). This high rise resort is very likeTorremolinos, although the accommodations and beach are nicer. The two beds in the main room are fine, but there is no door between the bedroom and living room. There is a small frig, a microwave, stovetop, coffee maker ant toaster, and a nice balcony overlooking the beach. Found asupermercado for supper. Tonight is the end of Daylight Saving Time.
the
The
To the north rolling wooded hills of the Sierra de
Aracena complete the picture of this varied province that has so far escaped
mass tourism. Fascinating in their own right, these green-sloped mountains
conceal one of the marvels of Andalucía: Rio Tinto. The
mountain range, which stretches from the north of
This is a region which is dear to every Spaniard´s heart
because - as well as mushrooms - it produces the country´s most highly-prized
gourmet delicacy, ham. The
Huelvato Matalascanas
Mazagonis 18 km away and is a good place for those interested in fishing, sailing and long walks along the beach. From this point onwards the road passes through areas of sand dunes, pinewoods and mud flats, the only town being Matalascanas.
We left M. at 9:40 to get Paige and Tom,
forgetting that it was 8:40Portuguese time. Crossed a very neat, Vasco de
Gama-type bridge over RioGuadiano and arrived at the airport at 10:35. They
were on time at
Following the coastline we reach
La Antilla, which consists of four or five rows of small holiday homes by a
magnificent beach. LaAntilla and El Terron -a small port on the river Piedras-
belong to the
Four km (2 ½ mi) away is Palos de la Frontera, from which on
Aug 2, 1492, Columbus’s three caravels, the Pinta, the Nina, and the Santa
Maria, set sail. Mostof his crew were men of Palos and neighboring
Moguer. Here, you can seethe
In the main square there is a Statue of Pinzon the builder of the ships and also a plaque to the sailors most of whom were from the village.
Just to the South of Huelva city
across the River Tinto we found La Rabida. La Rabida is the name of the
Monastery where Colombus stayed and studied and planned his trips. We had to
buy an audio tour to visit the monastery and walk around the cloisters that
There is a fascinating display of 1930 murals on the
Also in the area you can see the Monument Fé or
Monument to the Faith and Monument Plus Ultra which
commemorates the first south transatlantic flight. The modern Iber Americano
Forum is an outdoor venue for Concerts and conferences. There is also the
Back to Matalascanas for a bottle of champagne and a beautiful sunset.
Left for
became famous throughout
the world for its sweet wines named after the town, which the British
pronounced "sherry". It is called "de laFrontera" because
it once stood on the frontier between the Moorish and the Christian realms.
The Tourist Office is located at Larga, 39. (Tel:
+34 956 331162).
Real Escuela de Arte Equestre, Avda Duque de Abrantes. Located in a magnificient19th century mansion designed by the architect of the Paris Opera - Garnier and world famous for its magnificent dancing horses, at Avenida de Abrantes (Tel:+34 956 311111). The establishment of this prestigious school was masterminded by Alvaro Domecq in the 1970’s. On Thursday mornings there is a spectacular display of dressage. We opted for the training session, Como Bailan losCaballos Andaluces, in which horses (a breed created from a cross between the native Andalusian workhorse and the Arabian) and skilled riders in 18thc riding costume demonstrate intricate dressage techniques and jumping. We also included a tour of the stables.
The distinctive wine in
JdlF, the home of sherry, is surrounded by immense vineyards
of chalky soil, whose famous Palomino grapes have funded a host of churches and
noble mansions. Both sherry and horses are very
much the domain of
The Spanish word bodega means "cellar",
but it has the generical meaning of "wine manufacturer". You can take
a guided tour of the many
Great lunch at Gaitan, Calle Gaitan 3. Tom
had cream of artichoke soup and Jerry & Gail had cream of crab with
shrimp. Paige and Jerry had oxtail, Tom had pork with
The town has a markedly aristocratic flavour with wide streets and squares. The 11thc Moorish alcazar has been restored and wa sPaige & Tom’s first castle. Its church was originally built by the Arabs as a mosque, and there was a couple fornicating on the floor—very disgusting.
There is not much difference between the wines of
Despite such a short distance between them the wine produced will be affected by any slight change in the atmosphere or climate.
History records the earliest fermented fruit as
date wine, but mead probably came first, then beer. Grape wine was prepared as
early as the prehistoric Djemdet-Nast period in
Some say that the Phoenicians introduced the vine
to
When the Romans captured
By the 16th century, the sherry trade with
In recent times, wage inflatíon and the
availability of cheaper and better machínery and new computer technology have
jolted the traditions and whol eatmosphere of the sherry towns. Equally the
impact of individual businesses such as the fluctuating fortunes of Ruíz-Mateo
has been enormous, from his family´s humble beginnings as a local wine shipper
to big business and banks. Nowadays all the big sherry labels of the world are
present in some form in
Thirty km (18 mi) east of
On the way home we passed huge
fields of cotton. Then we got stuck in a bad truck accident outside
Left at
Lying on the banks of the
Of course, this bustling city of 700,000 people also has a
negative side: traffic choked streets; high unemployment; a notorious crime
rate; and, at times, the kind of impersonal treatment you won’t find in smaller
cities. But
S is justly proud of its literary and artistic
associations. The painters Diego Rodriguez de Silva Velasquez (1599-1660),
and Bartolome Esteban Murillo(1617-82) were natives,
as were the poets Gustavo Adolfo Becquer (1836-70), AntonioMachado (1875-1939),
and Nobel Prize winner Vicente Aleixandre(1898-1984). The tale of that
ingenious knight of
Started in the Plaza Nueva. In
the middle of this square stands the Ayuntamiento,designed by Diego de Riano and built between
1527&1564. The façade, which overlooks the Plaza Nueva, dates from the
19thc, but walk around to the opposite side on the Plaza de
Since the guidebook was written, the entrance price went up, but the money has been spent on renovations and everything is clean and well lit. We got another audio tour ($3) which was a good investment although most of the chapels had English explanations.
The exterior of the cathedral, with its rose windows and
magnificent flying buttresses, is a monument to pure Gothic beauty. Gothic
purity has been submerged in well-lit, ornate Baroque decoration formerly lit
only by flickering candles. Just inside the main entrance, on the south
side off Calle Fray Gonzales, is the flamboyant monument to Christopher
Columbus. The great explorer knew triumph and disgrace and found
not repose. He died at
Between the great west door, the Puerta Mayor, and the central choir, is the tombstone of Columbus’s son, Hernando Colon (1488-1539),inscribed with the words A Castilla y Leon, mundo Nuevo dio Colon (To Castileand Leon, Columbus gave a new world).
In the Capilla Mayor, in the central nave, is the intricately carved altarpiece begun by a Flemish carver in 1482. This magnificent retablo, the largest in Christendom (65 feet high by 43 feet wide), depicts some 36scenes from the life of Christ; its pillars are carved with more than 200figures, and the whole work is lavishly adorned with immeasurable quantities of gold leaf.
In the Capilla Real, above the grille, we saw Ferdinand III, on horseback, receiving the keys of S. At the sides of this chapel stand the tombs of Ferdinand’s wife, Beatrix of Swabia, and his son, Alfonso X, calledthe Wise (died 1284). In a silver urn before the high altar rest the precious relics of Ferdinand III, S’s liberator (canonized in 1671), who was said to have died from excessive fasting.
Between the Capilla Real and Columbus’s tomb, are the main
treasure houses of the cathedral, displaying a wealth of gold and silver (much
of it brought from the
We left the cathedral through thePatio de losNaranjos. The old fountain in the center was used for ritual ablutions before entering the mosque. Across the patio, the Sacristy houses the Columbus Library, a collection of 3,000 volumes bequeathed by his son Hernando.
The Giralda, undisputed symbol of S., dominates the skyline and can be glimpsed from almost every corner of the city. Built originally as the minaret of S’s great mosque, from which the faithful were summoned to prayer, it was constructed between 1184 and 1196 under the Almohad dynasty, just 50 years before the reconquest of S. When the Christians tore down the mosque, they could not bring themselves to destroy this tower and so incorporated it into their new cathedral as the belltower. In 1565-68 they added a lantern and belfry to the old minaret, installing 24 bells, one for each of S’s 24 parishes and the 24 Christian knights who fought w Ferd. They also added the bronze statue of Faith, which turns as a weather vane (el giraldillo—something that turns), providing the name Giralda.
With its Baroque additions, the slender Giralda now rises
322 feet. In its center, in place of steps, a gently sloping ramp, made up
of 24 parts, wide eenough for 2 horsemen to pass abreast, climbs to a viewing
platform 230 feet up. It is said that Ferd rode his horse to the top to admire
the view of the city he had conquered. We followed in his footsteps, and
were rewarded by a glorious view of pan-tile roofs and the
We exited from the church, then walked eastward across Plaza
del Triunfo into the entrance of one of the most exotic palaces in
Alcazar($3),
the Mudejar palace built by Pedro I (1350-69), on the site of the former
Moorish alcazar. Don’t mistake the Alcazar for a genuine
Moorishpalace. It may look like one, and was indeed designed and built by Moorish
workers brought in from
We entered the Alcazar through high, fortified walls of genuine Moorish origin that belie the exquisite delicacy of its interior. Cross thePatiode la Monteriato Pedro’s Mudejar palace, arranged around the beautiful Patio de las Doncellas(Damsels). It reminded me of the blue “House of the Dolls” in Garganta. Its name most likely pays tribute to the annual gift of 100 virgins to the Moorish sultans. Resplendent with the most delicate of lacelike stucco and gleaming azulejo decorations, its Granada craftsmanship is instantly reminiscent of the Alhambra, though the upper galleries were added by Charles V. Opening off this patio, the Salonde Embajadores(Hall of the Ambassadors), with its cedar wood cupola of green, red, and gold, is the most sumptuous hall in the palace. It was here, in 1526, that Carlos V married Isabel of Portugal—for which occasion he added the wooden balconies.
Next, Philip II’s dining hall and the three apartments of
Pedro’s wily and beautiful mistress, Maria de Padilla. Maria’s hold over
her royal lover, and seemingly over his courtiers too, was so great that they
apparently lined up todrink her bathwater. The Patio de las Munecas(Court
of the Dolls) takes its name from two tine faces carved on the inside of one of
its arches, no doubt as a joke on the part of its Moorish creators. Here,
in1358, Pedro reputedly had his half-brother, Don Fadrique, master of the Order
of
The end of our visit will bring us out into theAlcazar Gardens, where a family could easily spend a whole day enjoying the fragrance of jasmine and myrtle, the beautiful terraces and ornamental baths, the palm trees, andthe well-stocked goldfish pond covered in water lilies. In the midst of this oasis of green is an orange tree said to have been planted in the time of Pedro the Cruel.
We walked back on Avenida de la Constitucion to Plaza Nueva then to Enrique Becerra (En. B Gamazo 2), which Paige had selected for our lunch—excellent. A cozy snug retreat in a whitewashed house with wrought iron window grilles. The place was full of local business people. Paige and I had gazpacho with crudités (among the city’s best, so they say) and Tom and Jerry had the daily vegetable and calamari soup. Then Tom had pork croquettes stuffed with asparagus and cheese (OK), Jerry had pork stew(very good), and Paige and I had fried eggplant slices stuffed with shrimp(very Good). Then we walked to the
Museo Provincial de Bellas Artes de Sevilla, in a lovely old convent off Calle de Alfonso XII and housing one of the most important Spanish art collections. A whole gallery is devoted to two paintings by el Greco, and works by Zurbaran are exhibited; however the devoutly religious paintings of the Seville-born Murillo are the highlight. An entire wing is given over to macabre paintings by the 17thc artist Valdes-Leal. His painting of John the Baptist’s head on a platter includes the knife—lest you miss the point.
Stopped at El Rocio on the way home—sort
of Twilight Zone
We were downstairs to meet the
transport to Donana at 8,but, at
Turned off at Sta Ana la Real and Paige and I took a walk about a half mile to Chorros de Joyarancon. We found chestnuts and acorns and a little dark grey bird with an orange face (Paige said he was in his Halloween costume. Outside of Alajar we drove way up the mountain to Penes de Arians Montano, a hermitage on a rocky promontory with a great view. Its Romeria is renown. We also went out in the country to the San Bartalemeo hermitage.
To Aracena--along the northern border of the province in the beautiful and little-visited Sierra de Aracena, a nextensive range of pine-covered mountains, the Sierra Morena, and thinly populated valleys, where wild boar, eagles and deer still roam abundantly.
We passed some fine old mansions that were once the Summer homes of wealthy Sevillian families. We parked in the main square and went shopping. We went into a couple of jamon stores and a great potter yshop where I found the perfect green and gold bowl for our new house. Th eproprietress recommended the Restaurant Rabida, a simple country place where we got a jarra of wine and a plate of Serrano jamon to start. Tom and Paige got omelets and Jerry got picadillo soup and chicken. I got *** setas(wild mushrooms) in garlic sauce ($40.50).
Then we went back to the pottery and Paige got a great plate. Then west to
AROCHE
Fo rsomething really off the beaten
track, you could continue 40 km (25 mi) west onN433 to Aroche, a village of
4,000 people with a 12thc Arab castle and ancient Gothic and Baroque
houses. Aroche is at the top of a hill dominating the extensive plain of
the fertile valley of the
Turned south at Rosal de la Frontera and home.
Parque Nacional
de Donana lies beyond the
Its configuration is a result of its past as the
estuary of the Guadalquivirriver. It consists of beaches, coastal mobile
dunes,"corrales";marshes,"lucios"(ponds)
and"caños"(jets); vegetation is typical Mediterranean thicket of
narrow leaved cistus heather, mastic tree,rosemary, cistus scrub, red lavender,
etc; the marsh cork oaks are known as"las pajareras"for the enormous
quantity of birds that nest in them and large expanses of stone pine. Fauna
here has a rich variety, some in dange rof extinction, such as the lynx, the
Egyptian mongoose and the imperial eagle;game is also
plentiful - deer, fallow deer and boar. Doñana is well known for the variety of
species of birds, either permanent residents, winter
visitors from north and central
Entrance to the park is strictly controlled. We
chose the half day trip in a jeep with two other people and an official guide.
To visit the park take theA483 past Almonte and El Rocio to El Acebuche (near
Matalascañas) where one finds the main visitors centre. There are trips into
the park at 08.30h and17.00h every day except Sundays in the summer (1/06 –
15/09) and at 08.30h and15.00h every day except Mondays in the winter. Booking
is recommended by phoning the visitors centre on +34 959 430432. Full day trips
can also b eorganised for groups. Visitors centre 'El Rocina' is nearer to El
Rocio, it hasan audio visual display and nature trail. The park can also be
reached ( but not entered) by taking the ferry boat
across the
We saw two of the three environments: the Mediterranean forest and the marshes (we did not see the dunes). Very few animals, but lots of birds: red kite, winchat, greylag goose, little grebe,chiffchaff, lapwing, stonechat, great red warbler, redstart, crested lark,common kestral, comman buzzard, pochard (like a redhead or canvasback), ringedplover, little ringed plover, little wagtail, yellow wagtail, and lots of “our”herons, egrets and ducks. Also saw cork oak (native), and Italian StonePine and Eucalyptus (introduced), strawberry tree (like the one Paige and I saw at the falls), tamarisk and mastic tree.
We returned to El Rocio for lunch at the Toruno Restaurant. We had a nice table under a 700-year old cork tree. Tom had sopa peccadillo and grilled pork loin topped with Serranoham. Paige had grilled dorado (with head, tail and spine). Jerr yhad octopus and venison stew and I had mixed salad and assorted fried fish (incuding whole sardines).
Then off to Italica, the testimony par excellance of Roman
magnificence in
Then on a scenic road north to Las Nieves and west, passing through the amazing Minos de Riotinto—huge mining excavations reopened in 1556 after Philip II senta party to search the Andalcian hill for the lost Roman silver, copper and goldmines.
To Zalamea la Real, where we failed to find dolmens—no
success either in El Pozneto either, but in a year or two they will be easy to
find. Stoppedin the “leather” town of
We soon discovered that November 1 is All Saints Day and
lots of things are closed. Also—every little town was full of people laden
with flowers, headed toward the local cemetery. We got to Estoi and found
the place closed. Apparently it is scheduled to become a parador. It
looked even more rundown than when Kim and I were here. BUT the Roman town
of
Drov enorth along a scenic road to
Almodovar. It was a very, very curvy road—reminiscent of the old
Had a good lunch at the Dom Dinis Restaurant there. We started with cheese,olives, bread and pickled pigs’ ears (a bit tough, but obviously a local delicacy). Then Tom had beef in a white sauce with homemade potato chips; Paige had beef in a fresh tomato sauce and fires; Jerry and I had the daily special, lamb stew.
Then across to Mertola and along the eastern border down to the coast, passing the famous Moorish chimneys of Loule along the was. El Rocio was really rocking with lots of tour busses and hundreds of cars. Packed up for our flight tomorrow.
All was well for our departure—I think a good time was had by all