Gail South
Europe, 1992
Friday, September 25, 1992: We evacuated Long Beach Island just before Hurricane Danielle hit, and led her all the way to Kennedy. Jerry and Spider dropped us off shortly after six. We went through security (and they didn’t make Paige unpack her bag, event though she looks like a drug smuggler). The waiting area was very small, so we couldn’t shop. Instead, we people-watched. In the booth next to us, a girl was sleeping. Suddenly she fell off the bench onto the floor. Nobody did anything (Paige looked to make sure she was breathing). After a minute or so, she got up and, for the next half hour, proceeded to curse New York and the “animals” that live there. Our flight was fine. We got dinner about 11. The flight attendant liked Paige and kept bringing us wine. We slept fitfully for a couple of hours, and then awoke and had breakfast.
Sat., Sept. 26
Arrived at Orly about 10:15. Lots of lines. Waited to clear customs after waiting to deplane. We finally found the Avis counter, then waited there. We got our car, a rouge Renault 5, and, with Paige at the wheel, we zipped toward Versailles, only getting lost once. We found our hotel, the Bellevue, only two blocks from the Chateau. Our room is on the top floor (five to us, four to the French), reached by a very small elevator (it says capacity four, but it couldn’t mean four with luggage). We have a double bed, a mini bar with scotch for 55f ($11.90) and a bathroom with a tub and hose shower (and a bidet, of course). Our window opens onto a lovely, tree-lined street. We changed from our traveling duds to shorts and then looked for lunch. We had exotic sandwiches and set out for Versailles.
The day couldn’t have been more perfect. We were awed by the opulence of the palace and the gardens. The fountains are turned off for the season, but it was still lovely. We walked through the gardens for a long time. It’s Saturday, so the locals were all here with their children and their dogs. After Paige awoke from her nap by the fountain, we walked around the town. Guess what we found!! A Flea Market!! But it didn’t compare with the ones in Beach Haven. After we cleaned up, we went to an outdoor café: The Grand Café. Paige had two kinds of pate and I had sea skate. We shared a warm goat cheese salad and a good bottle of Sauvignon Blanc. Then to bed.
Sunday, Sept. 27
Awoke in our garret and breakfasted on fresh croissants and strong coffee. We had a bit of trouble finding our way out of Versailles, but were soon on our way to Rambouillet. This is a compact chateau with pointed corner turrets. It was a nice town. We went to the “foret” and saw two cock birds and many signs warning about “frequent traverses des grands animaux.” Also herds of running boy scouts. We wanted to get to Chartes before noon. It was as spectacular as I remembered and quite uncrowded. The windows were magnificent. There were wonderful reflections of lighted candles on statues and windows.
From Chartres we drove south to Tours, went a bit southwest along the northern bank, then crossed near Azy le Rideau. Stopped at a boucherie and got cheese and tomatoes to make sandwiches which we ate by the water gardens at Villandry. The tiered Renaissance flower and vegetable gardens are just like the ones I’ll have when I retire. After lunch we drove back along the Loire. After a slight mishap, we reached Chenonceaux in time to tour this “feminine” chateau gracefully bridged over the river Cher and watch the sun setting over the water. Every leaded window presents a serene water view, with those at the rear adding mysterious forest, and those at the front elegant, sculptured gardens. The long second floor gallery was herbed with plastic trees in all the alcoves and niches. We wanted to put in real trees and flying birds. Huge underground kitchens provide a woman’s touch. We drove on through Amboise toward Chambord and found a lovely hotel in Malvais, l’Oree du Chambord. Went to see the sound and light show, which was great, except that they cheated us out of 100f. That’s the last time that will happen. During the simulated thunder storm I was sure the towers would tumble down on us. The return of Louis XIV from the hunt was accompanied by barking hounds, horses splashing across the river, and three real deer standing in the water. This chateau is huge and varied. Towers grow out of the roof as in a child’s dream of sandcastles gone mad.
Monday, Sept. 28
This was a long day, but a full one. It rained all day. We left Chambord at eight and drove to Cheverny. We wanted to see the hounds, but were too early, and so we left to make up time lost yesterday. We had planned for a long drive, but my “scenic routes” added a bit more than we had anticipated. We stopped at a patisserie for a wonderful breakfast, then took the autobahn for a while. We had put in the cheaper gas, and the car didn’t like it. We added higher test, but this car, we named her Brenda, is going to have trouble in Switzerland. We opted for the scenic route from St. Flour. After a very windy, steep (10% grade) road, with deep, deep gorges and high mountains, we pulled into Le Puy. It is surrounded by four peaks, each with either a huge statue or a tower on top. Very impressive. It was beautiful, awe-inspiring, and absolutely terrifying, but we made it. We stopped at a Super-Marche in Langeac and go lunch. It was worth it, but we were very tired when we got to Orange.
Tuesday, Sept. 29
Left Orange shortly before 7 AM. Stopped at the Arch Triomphe, which didn’t look nearly as interesting as it did last night, even in the bright sunshine. Drove on to Avignon, and I think we were the first visitors to arrive. We walked on the terraced gardens and enjoyed the swans, ducks, peacocks and fountains. Nothing opened till nine, so we went and had breakfast: glaces, mine was cassis and Paige’s was rum raisin. Walked around the Place d’Horloge, and then toured the Palais des Papes. I liked it. Paige preferred the architecture of the buildings and grounds. Then we drove to Pont du Gard to see the aqueducts, but decided to bypass them for the castles on the Rhone. Got to Beaucaire, but it was closed for lunch. So we crossed the river to Tarascon where we found, guess what!, a huge street market. We bought a baguette, olives with herbs de Provence, tiny red grapefruit and cantaloupes for breakfast and wine to drink with the rest of yesterday’s cheese and tomatoes. We found a tiny little park amongst the old buildings and winding streets. As we ate, we could hear a woman sautéing garlic and onions and listening to Dire Straits in English.
Then we headed for Arles. Actually, we went right through the town and into the Camarque. This wild, marshy terrain south of the city, home of wild horses and bulls and beautiful birds. We saw some but were a little disappointed with how commercialized it was. Paige made friends with one of the horses. At the tip of the area is a beach resort which reminded us of LBI, except that the water was still warm and people were swimming. When we came out, Paige saw a hooked and wanted to turn around and take advantage of the photo opportunity.We drove through Aix and took the scenic route toward Toulon. I was getting a bit anxious about a hotel, since we had no clue about where we would stay. Ended up at a brand new motel, Hotel Flora, in Ste. Christine; we even had two beds. Very nice. And we had a good dinner, but only one waitress for the entire room. It took over two hours and we were ready for bed. Paige hates the French.
Wednesday, Sept. 30
We overslept today. It was 8:30 before we left. We followed the mountain road to Cogolin. The views were unbelievable. Drove into St. Tropez. It was early enough that we could drive through town and see the yachts, it reminded us of LBI. Continued along the coast to Cannes then went to see the perfume factories of Grasse. We were disappointed. They wouldn’t do a tour because we were the only ones there. Then we tried to get to see the Renoir and Matisse museum in Cagues and Vence, but got lost and decided to take the autoroute around Antibes and Nice to San Remo. The views from the shore route are great, but the trips through each little town are hard. We had really good sandwiches from a truck stop and then began to look for a hotel. At Finale Ligure, we found the route (unbelievable) to the IYHF and climbed (with our luggage) the 321 step staircase to the turreted castle overlooking the sea. After being attacked by a large German shepherd and finding the dorm accommodations would be 38,000L, we climbed down 321 steps and moved on. Found a very quiet seaside town and a nice hotel, Villa Rina in Spotorno. Went out for pasta verde and gnocchi Roquefort at a family café. We walked home and watched The Maltese Falcon in Italian.
Thursday, October 1
Drove the autostrada almost to La Spezia, then got off to look for the Cinque Terre. It was a wonderful ride down SS1, windy, but not like the road to Le Puy in France. When we got to town we took the smallest, snakiest road yet to the tiny village of Romaggiore. We would have gone further, but the road didn’t. Took the scenic autostrada into Firenze. These roads are really engineering marvels, with hundreds of tunnels through the mountains. Well! Mama Mia! Oy vey! Ooh Lala! Driving in this city is unbelievable. There are 100 times more bikes and motor bikes (Paige calls them “flies”) than cars, and they are everywhere. Plus, of course, the city is hundreds of years old and none of the streets are straight or wider than one car and one bike, even though they’re two lanes. It took over an hour to find our hotel. But we did. Rested a bit and then took off.
Went to San Marco, which was sooo cool and quiet after the street. There was an old lady praying in one of the alcoves, only a half dozen people in the church. A dirty drunk came in and interrupted the lady, asking for money. He asked everyone but us. We scared him away. Then we walked to the Duomo and saw the beautiful doors of the Baptistry. It was after 5, so we only saw the outside. Then we found, guess what, a sidewalk market in the Plaza San Lorenzo. We shopped for a while then tried to find our hotel. Eventually we did. Went out for dinner and found a wonderful ristorante, Hotel Corona. We had a great meal, two helpings of melanzana (Tums to follow) and decided Italians beat French hands down.
Friday, Oct. 2
Very full day today. We had breakfast in the sunny dining room of our hotel, then left about 8 and walked until about 6:30. We saw everything, mostly from the outside. It seems the civil servants are on strike, so everything (except the churches and piazzas) was closed. Got past the Medici palace and chapel, which I had really wanted to see; then circled the Bargello to find Vivolo’s for gelati, unsuccessfully. But, I really think the churches are the best since this was the time when “humanity” and the human spirit came to the fore, the churches are a microcosm. We loved Santa Croce, which is the final resting place for most everybody who was anybody: Machiavelli, Galileo, Rossini. Dante has the biggest statue, even though he’s buried in Ravenna. I was disappointed that we couldn’t get into the Palazzo Vecchio, but the courtyard, with its cherub fountain was nice. The Piazza della Signoria was being rehabilitated. This is the 500th anniversary of Cosimo de Medici, and I guess they’re going to have a big party, as soon as the strike is over. Went to the Mercato Nuovo (another flea market) and bought a few things.
Then we crossed and recrossed the Ponte Vecchio, gaping in each and every store window for the perfect pair of earrings for Gail (we finally found them). Paige had already found the perfect ring in a shop off the bridge. We went in for it just before returning to our hotel. Climbed way, way up to the Piazza Michelangelo for a panoramic view of the whole city. Returned to the Mercato Nuovo so Paige could get a belt she had fallen in love with. On our way back to the hotel, we passed a small church in an alley (we didn’t write down the name). When we went in, practice was beginning for a Bach organ concert to be held this night. The sound was wonderful, and I had said that I really hoped to hear an organ in one of these churches with its high dome. What a treat! After we got Paige’s ring, we came back and reviewed our purchases. Then went to a trattoria, Palle d’Oro, and I finally got to try trippa fiorentino: delicioso. Paige had vitello. Came back and tried to pre-plan our approach to Rome.
Saturday, Oct. 3
After breakfast at our hotel, we left Florence about 8 and headed for the old walled towns on the way to Siena. The countryside was the best yet, with gray olive trees planted side-by-side with grape vines, heavy with dark, dark blue grapes. Went first to Certaldo and its Alto Villa, a wonderful high-in-the-mountains walled city. Saw a wedding at the 14th c. church and bought local Chianti and grappa. Then we went to San Gimigiano, the same kind of town, only bigger and much more touristy. We decided to take the autostrada to Rome. Fortuitously, we stopped at an “Informazione”, only the 2nd one that’s been open, and they gave us directions for our hotel. We arrived without mishap about 5. It’s been pouring all day, so we just settled in, had dinner at a good trattoria, and came home. Actually, we walked a bit, got lost, and Paige found our way home. Told the desk we were good walkers. I hope the rain stops. (The desk has me a little worried. They say people will break in and steal Brenda’s radio. Maybe the rain will keep them away).
Sunday, Oct. 4
It looked beautiful when we got up. We had a buffet breakfast: eggs, cereal, the whole works. We figured we didn’t know when our next meal would be. Then we set off. Got as far as the train station, about four blocks, when the sky opened up. We dashed inside. Very interesting. Lots of beggars of all types: old peasant women in shawls and black skirts, groups of gypsy women working the crowd, teenaged girls, mostly women. By the time we got to the far side, the sun was shining. We walked to the Coliseum, which Paige thought was very interesting, especially the hundreds of cats. Spent a long time in the Forum, what an exciting place to be an archeologist! Then we walked and walked, past fountains, piazzas, and churches, all the way to St. Peters. We had to take turns in the Basilica because we only had one pair of long pants. Walked back and had a late lunch/early dinner at Ciao Bello on the Via Venetto, outdoors where we could watch all the passersby. Got back to the hotel about 6 and rested for an hour, then went out for a stroll. More pouring down rain. So we came home and got ready for an early start tomorrow.
Monday, Oct. 5
Rained hard all night, then on and off most of the way to Naples on the autostrada. Naples is a very poor and ugly town. We stopped for gas just before the city and were surrounded by people selling video cameras, “gold” jewelry, and probably their sisters if the price was right. Bypassed the city and got off at Ercolano for what the guidebooks promised to be a “spectacular” eight-mile drive to the top of Mt. Vesuvius. It was spectacular all right, especially when the town busses came around the hairpin turns on roads that were, maybe, eight feet wide with 4000-foot drops on our side. When we finally got to within a kilometer or so of the top, the parking man appeared next to the seller of statues of David carved out of lava and asked for money so we would be allowed to walk to the top. Since the fog had covered the top, we turned around and made our own stops as we descended below the fog.
Then on to the Amalfi peninsula, the place I was most looking forward to. It was everything I hoped, and more. We should have learned by now not to enter populated areas unless absolutely necessary. Sorrento was a bit of an adventure, but the coast is magnificent. The drive was very curvy, but not horrible, and the views were, literally, breathtaking. Positano is the town after Sorrento, but the way was blocked, so we tried the only alternative and ended up in St. Angelo. Of course, it was exactly the wrong way, but wonderful, wonderful views. I’d recommend it to everyone who comes here. Plus we found a great restaurant, the SIsto Sant Angelo. It looks brand new, and, of course, we were the only diners (it was 2:30). After lunch, the owner told us to ignore the “road closed” sign, so we did and continued on through Positano and Praiano, where we found a hotel with a balcony open to the sea and to the lights of Positano. The floors are tiled with malachite and lapis (or so it appears). We walked down, down, down to the sea, through narrow passages with iron gates to villas. The waves were much too powerful to permit swimming, but it was beautiful. The water as turquoise as the Caribbean. Walked back up, a bit more slowly, then watched the sun set from our balcony. Then we walked through the town, which has a beautiful church on the seaside and the elementary school on the hill on the other side of the street. We bought tomatoes, peppers, pears, grapes, pomegranates and a bottle of wine for dinner. Tomorrow we head for the Abruzzo mountains which had their first major snow last weekend.
Tuesday, Oct. 6
Praiano to Isernia/Venafio: our first stop this morning was the ancient Greek settlement of Paestum. There are three temples, better preserved than any in Rome, one each to Ceres, Hera and Neptune, and a brand new museum, bull of the things archeologists found in the tombs of the town cemetery. We saw herds of “buffala” and bought some of their own mozzarella along with local mortadella. Paige doesn’t eat meat, so I had to eat the latter by myself for lunch. Then we began our climb into the Monti dei Matese, our goal was Isernia, the oldest town in Italy. Unfortunately, we must have been the only people looking for it, or at least for its geographic predecessor, Benevento, because we drove around Avelino a bit before we found any signs. At any rate, we did find it, but were disappointed as it seems to be very modern, and filled with apartment buildings, but no hotels. The only one, outside of town was 160L per night, and clearly for business travelers. So we drove further out of town and found a great truck stop, with big tiled rooms and balconies overlooking the mountains. Shortly after we arrived, a violent thunderstorm took out the lights, briefly, several times, so we were glad we were off the road. When we went out eat, the restaurant was, at one end, full of truck drivers. We were the only women. But they seated us at the other end and fed us pasta and homemade wine. We will sleep well.
Wednesday, Oct. 7
Venafio/Isernia to Assisi
Woke up early, but didn’t get started til 10:30. Reason: you can’t just go into a bank in Italy and change money, and the hotels and gas stations don’t take travelers checks of plastic. So I went back into the lovely town of Isernia, which we had enjoyed sooo much yesterday and began to search for a bank that would welcome us. After two false starts, I found one about 8:45 AM. It’s very interesting. You need your own personal key to get into Italian banks. First you enter a decompression chamber, then you insert your key and the second doors opens. You get out the same way. And many have ouzi-armed guards. However, they don’t begin changing money till 10. So I sat on the step outside the door and at 9:30 I rang the bell and asked if it was time yet. They let me in, and by shortly after 10, I had my money (I think it was my IBM business card that did it). Anyway, that was the only blemish on a perfect day. The drive through the Abruzzi National Park was wonderful. Paige thinks it’s just as she expected Switzerland to be, complete with belled cows blocking the roads and herds of sheep and goats with their shepherds and dogs. We loved the towns of Alfedana and Scanno. We had lunch by a lake at the latter. Then we drove north through Riete, Terni, and Spolete, through mountains covered with olive trees. Into Assisi, where we got a room for the night. We had a thunderstorm (for a change) just as we arrived, but it ended and we walked through town later and found a trattoria, Ermenios, where the owner cooked me a fresh local trout on a grill in the dining room. Paige had whipped cream filled meringues for dessert.
Thursday, Oct. 8
Assisi to Ravenna
This was another splendid day, almost all green routes. We walked around Assisi in the morning and had two breakfasts: began with a cream-filled croissant, then toured the town, then I had the Italian version of a nutty sticky bun and Paige had a gelato. The church of St. Francis is beautiful. The walls are covered with frescos by Giotto telling the story of St. Francis’s life. Then we took scenic roads through the mountains, less steep, but just as curvy. We found a lovely place, high on a hill, with a view for miles and had our picnic. Arrived in San Marino ready to tour yet another foreign country, but it just looked like streets full of souvenir shops, so we left and go to Ravenna about 2:30. By the time we found a hotel and got back to see things it was after 4, so we left some for tomorrow. But we saw the town and the Basilica of San Appolinaire with its beautiful mosaics. We are both very tired tonight. We had dinner at the trattoria next to the hotel, did our laundry, and went to bed by 9.
Friday, Oct. 9
Ravenna to Venice
Slept till 7:30 and woke up feeling great. We walked around Ravenna and saw some more beautiful mosaics, then left for Venice. The only road is a two-lane truck route, so it was a bit slow, but Paige and Brenda can cut and weave with the best of them. We arrived with no problems, parked at the tronchetto, and took the #34 to St. Marks, where we changed for the Lido. The ride was a perfect introduction to Venice. We found our hotel. The Lido reminds me very much of the garden district in New Orleans, and the #1 line is just like the St. Charles streetcar. In fact, Venice is very much like New Orleans. After we settled into our very nice Biasutti Villa Ada hotel, we headed back for St. Marks. Walked and saw the beautiful church of Santa Maria Gloriosa (the Friary), with marvelous works by Titian. We were just a bit too late for the Scuolo of San Rocco. Walked some more, then had a Venetian dinner at Le Chef, a fish place with grapevines on the walls and ceilings. I had coda di rospa, a grilled fish I remembered from my last visit. It was good, not as great as I recalled, but few things are. We took the boat back and had a sparkling view of the city in lights.
Saturday, Oct. 10
Walked to our “private” beach this morning. Lines and lines of cabanas with piles of trash behind and small coarse beaches in front. Definitely not LBI. Then off to Venice where we got lost approximately 420 times. But we had fun. The streets were all flooded (strikes in Florence, floods in Venice, what will Paris bring?) so we couldn’t get into St. Marks till much later. But when we did, we saw the ordination of the “draconi” (deacon??). It was very impressive. We went first to the Doge’s Palace and then everywhere else. We had lunch at a canal-side trattoria. I had delicious fish soup with octopus and calamari with tiny razor clams. Got back to our hotel, then borrowed bikes and rode all around the island. We found the place where we need to get the ferry tomorrow. Rested our tired feet and then went up the street for pizza. Paige’s was Brie and mine was gorgonzola and funghi. Now we’re watching Gary Cooper in Italian.
Sunday, Oct. 11
This was our first really unpleasant day. It poured rain all day, and our windshield wipers don’t work. Then when we got high up, through the St. Goddard tunnels, a very dense fog added to our travails. We found an expensive gasthaus in Goschenen and had wild boar and beer for dinner. Maybe tomorrow will be better.
Monday, Oct. 12
Today started out to be the worst day yet, foggy, rainy, no windshield wipers, and the Susten Road to cross. The tour books make the road sound wonderful, and I’m sure it is an architectural marvel. We, however, couldn’t see any of the spectacular views, nor any of the hairpin bends. Then we came to one of our favorite experiences, a “deviation” (also known as a detour). We were climbing up, up, up in second gear and came to a red light. It turned green and we were pointed to a single lane. We continued on in fear and trembling, then, on a particularly neat turn, the car stopped. We tried all of our automotive tricks, but nothing worked. Now we knew that very soon all of the traffic which had the other end of the red light, four or five miles away, would come tearing down the mountain at us. We pushed Brenda off the road and tried to figure out how to ration the remainder of our Italian chocolate. Finally car appeared and a nice old couple (my age) told us to wait and they would send help. We kept trying the car, however, and finally Brenda started. So off we went (some tow truck probably arrive two hours later, but “c’est la vie”). We finally mad it to the other side. When we go to the op, 7720 feet high, we broke out of the clouds and had several magnificent views of rugged snow-covered peaks. This would be a glorious drive in the sunshine.
We stopped before Meringin to see the Reichenbach Falls where Holmes and Moriarty died. The funicular was closed, and Brenda wouldn’t start for about 20 minutes. Finally she did and we went into town, filled her with gas and checked the oil and water. After that, everything was fine. We must have gotten some water inside something yesterday when we worked on the wipers. It was still cloudy, but we could see lots. We drove along the north shore of Lake Brienzeiser, then through Interlaken to Spiez, where we found, guess what, a street fair. So we parked and walked around and had bratwurst and a sinfully good, artery-clogging, toasted cheese sandwich. Then a scenic drive to the medieval town of Gruyeres, where we parked outside the walls and got a room in a very picturesque hotel with big feather beds and a view of the Alps. We could hear cowbells right outside. We had a wonderful fondue dinner, but it was very expensive. Switzerland is great, if you’re rich.
Tuesday, Oct. 13
Gruyeres to Colmar
This was an altogether pleasant day, through wonderful lush farmland. We began with a tour of the Gruyeres “factory” and a lesson on cheese making. Then north to Bulle and on down to Lake Geneva. Beautiful, very well tended vineyards all around the lake. Along the Wine Route up the north shore of Lake Neuschatel. Had a picnic on a stone wall by a vineyard then north to La Chaux de Fonds where we saw a marvelous chiming clock and a museum of watches. Through the Jura Mountains, really high pastures for fat cows, to Basel, passing through Courfaivre, where we stopped at a small church with beautiful stained glass windows by Leger. Crossed yet another national border without needing our passports. Rode the autobahn almost to Colmar, then into “Centre Ville”, “unquestionably Alsace’s most beautiful city.” We found a good hotel (Paige is watching French cartoons) then walked into town and spent an interesting hour reading wonderful gourmet menus. We settled on “La Musardiere”. Paige had escargots and onion soup. I had Terrine de Maison and civet. We don’t know what civet is, but I suspect rabbit, and liqueurs des framboise for dessert. Tomorrow!! Paris!!!
Wednesday, Oct. 14
Colmar to Paris
Drove through some very pretty countryside n a lovely fall day through the vineyards of Alsace. We got Jerry some wine. Stopped in Baccarat and found some bargains. Then we got bread and cheese and tomatoes and looked for a piqnique spot. Found one off the autobahn between Nancy and Metz in an oak grove, with tables even. Then on to Paris. We found our hotel, Hotel Argentina, with no trouble. It is nice and very centrally located.. Paige was great maneuvering around l’Etoile with her eyes closed. We walked (the book said two miles, but we doubt it) to Place de la Concorde and l’Opera. Had dinner in a pub. Paige finally had raie and then walked home. They were just putting up a very interesting sculpture exhibit all along the Champs Elysses; huge people and animals by someone named Botero. We got home and Paige broke her contact lens in half.
Thursday, Oct. 15
It was raining when we awoke, so we took the Metro and spent the morning in the Louvre. It is truly a magnificent place. We especially liked the 17th and 18th century furniture and the French painting. Paige fell down the stairs. We had lunch at a brasserie: plat de jour just like the natives. We bought a “carte” to gain entrance to museums, so we planned our afternoon accordingly. My favorite was the Orangerie with beautiful Renoirs and Cezannes, also the incredible water lilies of Monet. Ended up at Notre Dame, where Paige made me walk all the way to the very top, then locked the iron gate behind her on the way down so that I was trapped in the dark tower, with only my fish flashlight. Walked all around the ile St. Louis, the island where Paris began. Then we had a wonderful dinner at Nos Ancetres les Gauls. First the waiter brought us a huge basket of fresh raw vegetables, different kinds of radishes, peppers, cucumbers, tomatoes, cauliflower, from which we made salads. Then we went to the “salamy bar” with sausages, pates, and various salads, all of this served with pitchers of red wine. Then we had brochettes of lamb, grilled to perfection, a huge plate of cheese, and chocolate mousse. Then the music began and we sang. Then Paige took me home.
Friday, Oct. 16
Paige selected our route today, all the degriffe shops in Paris. It was the first day my legs really hurt. We walked from the hotel to the Place de la Concorde, all over the 2nd arrondissment, through Les Halles (where we had lunch: Paige had the worst soup she had ever had in her entire life, so we traded). I tried to find morels for Jim, but this is the district that caters to the restaurants and so the smallest amount of the dried delicacy available was 500g ($50), and I thought that was more mushroom than he would ever eat. Then we found a mall and a telephone that didn’t require a card. We walked all through the Latin Quarter and Montparnasse to the Rue d’Alesia, the street of retail shops, where we didn’t find any bargains. On to the Eiffel Tower and through the Palais de Chaillot, to the Hotel Argentina. We figured out our packing for tomorrow, then walked (some more) to the restaurant I had seen in the NY Times. My meal was the best of the trip: baby mussels in a soup of pureed carrots and squash, roasted chicken with buttery puréed potatoes and some extravagant chocolate dessert. Paige ate all of her colin fish and had a plate of cheese for dessert. We sat right by a roaring fire, then walked home.
Saturday, Oct. 17
Got to the airport without incident, returned Brenda and said goodbye. We can’t take our carry-ons. I hope they make it. No lunch. Poor planning. Good trip.