Narrowboating in England—October 2007

Tuesday, October 23, 2007

Herb and Joe picked us up at 10:30 am for the 2-½ hour drive to JFK for our 3:15 pm flight to Gatwick. All seemed well. When we arrived (and they left) we were informed that the flight had been cancelled due to a broken flap on the plane that had left London to come to NYC to pick us up. Zoom said they would put us up in a hotel and give us meal vouchers and we would leave the next morning. After quite a wait, they loaded us (about 63 passengers) into two busses and drove us thirty minutes to a nice Marriott. We had dinner and retired early. The hotel never got the international phone capability hooked up, so we were unable to make a call to our B&B in England (they were expecting us early in the am). We called Paige’s office and asked her to email the B&B. We had a wake up call at 3 am (Wed) to get the bus, which didn’t arrive till 5 so we stood around, coffee-less in the lobby. We finally took off at 10 am in the tiniest seats we have ever seen—don’t fly XL. Horrible trip. We got to Gatwick at 1:30 am (Thursday), found our AutoEurope car rental desk still open. With an upgrade to a VW Passat , we set off for Stroud and the Laurels at Inchbrook. Arrived about 4:15 am. Lesley had stayed up waiting for us till 4, so she didn’t hear the bell. We sat (Jerry slept) in the car till 6, when we finally got to our room and caught a few hours sleep.

Thursday, October 25

Lesley made us a good breakfast even though is was a bit after ten. We drove through the beautiful Forest of Dean, then down the scenic route 4228 to Chepstow. There was a Christmas market of local products at Cinderford, but there was only one vendor. Then we went to the Slimbridge Wetland Centre, where we spent several very enjoyable hours seeing lots of rare birds, ducks, geese, etc. Had dinner at a pub and slept very well.

Friday, October 26

Had another good breakfast and set off for our journey through the Cotswolds northwest towards Ellesmere. Near Winchcombe, we stopped to visit Hailes Abbey, built about 1245 by Richard, Earl of Cornwall, to complete a pledge he had made during a violent storm at sea. After its establishment, Richard’s son, Edmund, presented the Cistercian monks of the abbey with a phial said to contain the blood of Christ. From then until the Dissolution, Hailes became a magnet for pilgrims. We also went into the old parish church and saw interesting frescoes on the walls. Outside was a maze in the grass. We enjoyed the peaceful villages along the way, and arrived at Blackwater Meadows Marina about 4. Our accommodations for the next week will be a “narrowboat”, about 56 feet long, 6 feet wide and 7 feet high. It has two bedrooms and a bath and a half. There is a full kitchen and lots of storage cubbies. As we don’t plan to take the boat out until Sarah arrives on Wed., we didn’t need the operating tutorial. They did give us a two-hour tape to watch. We headed west about three miles to Whittington, had dinner at the White Dragon pub next to the castle, then went to the Whittington Castle ghost Tour. Lots of fun and a little history. Back at the boat, the heat didn’t work, so we used the gas stove for heat while we watched the tape.

Saturday, October 27

The engineer came to check the heat. He said they would move the boat to a more reliable electric connection.Spent part of the morning in the market town of Oswestry, looking for a transformer from 220 to 11. The one I brought doesn’t work. We were unsuccessful, so I will have to be careful of the camera and not use the computer at all. Guess this journal will be written back in the USA. We drove on some VERY narrow roads (It made driving on the left easier when there is only one lane). There were hundreds of pheasants everywhere, a sight we were to see all over our trip routes. At the dead end of one of these long, windy roads, we came to Pistyll RhaeadrPistyll Rhaeadr is the tallest waterfall in Wales. It is formed by the Afon Disgynfa river passing over a 240-foot (75 m) Silurian cliff-face, after which the river is known as the Afon Rhaeadr. Pistyll Rhaeadr, whose name means the "spring of the waterfall", is counted as one of the Seven Wonders of Wales and is a Site of Special Scientific Interest. The 19th century author George Borrow remarked of the waterfall, "I never saw water falling so gracefully, so much like thin, beautiful threads as here". Referred to, by many who know and love her, as "The Hidden pearl of Wales". This is a place where folklore and mythology were birthed and those gifts and wisdoms contained now lay veiled within her mystery and presence. They are higher than Niagara and very pretty. We saw an English robin in a tree. It is much smaller and looks much more like a warbler than a thrush.

Drove through fields of heather to Lake Vyrnwy

Heather moorland, woodland, meadows, rocky streams and a large reservoir attract a wide variety of wildlife to this reserve set at the southern end of the Berwyn Mountains. Dippers and kingfishers nest by the lake and rocky streams, while ravens and buzzards can be found on the moorland. Lake Vyrnwy is popular with both birdwatchers and families alike as it offers a full range of facilities, including a shop, nature trails and bird watching hides. Visitors can drive around the reservoir by car.

We had had good weather up till now, but the skies opened up and we skipped the drive around the lake. We continued south through the Dyfnant Forest and lots of pretty small villages. Llanidloes is at the heart of the ancient medieval kingdom of Arwystli; the first town on the River Severn. Today, Arwystli encapsulates many of the most beautiful towns and villages in Mid Wales; Llanidloes (of course), Llandinam, Trefeglwys, Caersws, Carno, Llangurig and beyond. Rhayader and its surrounding area is a perfect destination for anyone seeking all year round activities. The nearby 70 square mile estate of the flooded Elan Valley is spectacularly beautiful and is home to some of Britain's most rare wildlife and plants along with magnificent engineering to create a fantastic experience whatever your choice of activity. Scenic hills and valleys that are criss-crossed with footpaths make it ideal for walkers who appreciate the unspoiled beauty of the magnificent mountain scenery, natural history and calming peace of the countryside. On either side of the town the banks of the Wye provide astounding peace and beauty with the entire length of the river and it's banks noted as a site of scientific special interest. Hanging oak forests, rocky outcrops and unpolluted farmland make this the best place in the country to watch rarities such as red kites, peregrines, pied flycatchers and redstarts. Just outside of town we stopped to watch a huge group of red kites soaring over the hills. There is a feeding station there, where the birds are fed every afternoon. Very impressive.

On down the Wye Valley to Hay-on-Wye, which that evening turned into Hay-on-Fire. We walked about the town for a while, and then gathered at Market Square at 6 for the legendary Hay-on-Fire procession. A parade of lanterns, masked revelers, itinerant dragons, wild music and dancing ensued as we wended our way through town towards the Warren (a sort of big sport field). We followed a massed Samba band and dancers, joined cross-dressing Morris dancers, experienced theatre-on-the-run, jived to African rhythms, and followed massed bands down to watch a fire spectacular. There were fireworks, a tournament of fire-breathing dragons. Very exciting and lots of fun. Back to the boat in the dark, after stopping for take-out gyros.

Sunday, October 28

We planned to attend the 11 am service at St. Asaph church, so got an early start. We passed around Llangollen, which is the terminus of the canal where we will be boating. The first stop was Valle Crucis Abbey. dating from the 13th century, 2 miles from Llangollen. It is well worth a visit and shows the sheer scale of buildings in the 14th century. It was largely destroyed during the reign of Henry VIII. The evocative ruins of Valle Crucis lie in green fields beneath Llangollen's steep sided mountains. In medieval times, this was a remote spot (ideal for austere Cistercian monks, who deliberately sought out wild and lonely places). Their Abbey, founded in the 13th century and added to a century later, has fared better than many of its contemporaries against the ravages of time, history and neglect. Many original features remain, including the glorious west front complete with an elaborate, richly carved doorway, beautiful rose window and 14th century inscription 'Abbot Adams carried out this work; may he rest in peace. Amen'. Other well-preserved features include the east end of the Abbey (which overlooks the monks' original fishpond) and lovely Chapter House with its striking rib-vaulted roof. But Valle Crucis is not just a lesson in medieval ecclesiastical architecture. A visit to this fascinating site evokes the lives of the Cistercian monks - successful sheep farmers and enthusiastic supporters of Welsh culture as well as devout men of religion. Interestingly, Valle Crucis also reveals a gradual relaxation in the strict regime of the Cistercians. By the late 15th century, the abbot decided to build for himself a fine new hall with a heated private apartment. Valle Crucis, the 'Valley of the Cross', is named after Eliseg's Pillar, a 9th century Christian memorial cross which stands nearby.

We passed through Ruthin, but its castle was closed, as was Denbeigh Castle. The striking ruins of Denbigh Castle, crowning a steep hill above the town, enjoy commanding views of the pastoral Vale of Clwyd and the round-backed hills of the Clwydian range.We arrived at St. Asaph about 10:30 and so drove around for a bit before returning for the service. The city of St Asaph lies between Denbigh and the coastal resort of Rhyl. It is home to the smallest cathedral in Britain and is set on the banks of the River Elwy. It has been and has been an important ecclesiastical centre for centuries, dating back to AD560 when the Scottish saint Kentigern, who left his disciple Asaph in charge when he returned to Scotland, founded a community. The surrounding area offers peaceful mountain and moor land walks along with a full range of coastal attractions." The houses in the principal streets are brick, and in general small, though neatly built; the streets are kept clean. The view of the city from many points around it, is particularly striking; its elevated position on an eminence near the termination of the Vale of Clwyd, crowned on its summit with the Cathedral, and having the parish church at its base, makes it a conspicuous object from every point of view, and the luxuriant grove of trees in which it is deeply embosomed give it a pleasingly romantic appearance. The surrounding scenery, which in every direction abounds with objects of interest and beauty, is seen to great advantage from the eminence on which the city is built, and from the high grounds in the immediate vicinity." [From Handbook of the Vale of Clwyd , William Davis, 1856] The Cathedral has been twice destroyed by fire and has had a fascinating and often violent history, including attacks by rebellious natives and also foreign invaders. It was destroyed by the soldiers of Henry III in 1245 and again by the armies of Edward I in 1282. It was rebuilt between 1284 and 1381 only to be burned by Owain Glyndwr's Welsh troops in 1402. In l7l5 the tower was completely demolished in a fierce storm. The existing building is largely 14th century with many Victorian alterations due to the remodeling by Gilbert Scott in 1867-75. We sat down about 10:45. The choir was practicing. No one else entered. At about 11:15, we left and admired the clock tower outside. We discovered that it was 10:15. It took us a while to figure out that their daylight-saving time ended a week before ours.

On to Conwy Castle, a gritty, dark stoned fortress which has the rare ability to evoke an authentic medieval atmosphere. The first time that visitors catch sight of the castle, commanding a rock above the Conwy Estuary and demanding as much attention as the dramatic Snowdonia skyline behind it, they know they are in the presence of a historic site which still casts a powerful spell. Conwy, constructed by the English monarch Edward I between 1283 and 1289 as one of the key fortresses in his 'iron ring' of castles to contain the Welsh, was built to prompt such a humbling reaction. A distinguished historian wrote of Conwy, 'Taken as a whole, Conwy's incomparably the most magnificent of Edward I's Welsh fortresses'. In comparison to other great Edwardian castles it is also relatively straightforward in design, a reflection of the inherent strength of its location. There are no concentric 'walls within walls' here, because they were not needed. Conwy's massive military strength springs from the rock on which it stands and seems to grow naturally. Soaring curtain walls and eight huge round towers give the castle (a World Heritage Inscribed site) an intimidating presence undimmed by the passage of time. The views from the battlements are breathtaking looking out across mountains and sea and down to the roofless shell of the castles 125ft Great Hall. It is from these battlements that visitors can best appreciate Conwy's other great glory, its ring of town walls. Conwy is the classic walled town. Its circuit of walls, over three quarters of a mile long and guarded by no less than 22 towers, is one of the finest in the World.

We were getting hungry and had been looking for a “real” English Sunday dinner, aka Sunday Carving or Sunday Roast. We got lucky and found one called Plas Maenan outside of Llanrwst. We got the last reservation, as the place was mostly booked for a private party. It was a beautiful old country house owned by a retired man, twenty-years the Queen’s butler.. After our served appetizer, we headed to the carvery, where we could choose any or all of roast beef, lamb, or turkey, served with various vegetables. Very nice meal on a glorious day. Next came the town of Llanrwst. in the beautiful Conwy Valley reached either along the A470 or across the River Conwy from Trefriw. It is no longer the only bridging point of the river Conwy, yet it still wears an air of importance as the market town for the Conwy Valley. Pont Fawr, the steep and elegant stone bridge designed by Inigo Jones, is however still the town's focal point. The 16th century bridge is so narrow as to allow single file traffic only, thus causing many a heated argument at the top of the bridge and bringing a new meaning to the words "cross over the bridge". Inigo Jones also designed another of Llanrwst's memorable buildings the 17th century Gwydir Chapel that houses one of Wales' most important historic artifacts. The Chapel is to be found down a narrow street, past the restored row of Almshouses, in the grounds of St Grwst's Church, which overlooks the river Conwy on the town bank of the river. The Chapel was built for the powerful Wynne family, whose home was just across the river at Gwydir Castle, and it contains a massive stone coffin, the remaining half of the sarcophagus in which Llywelyn the Great's body was laid to rest. Magnificent portrait brasses and an effigy of a knight in amour accompany the old cold empty coffin. Adjacent to Pont Fawr this time on the western bank of the Conwy is probably the most photographed building in Llanrwst a 15th century cottage, Ty Hwnt i'r Bont, once a courthouse and now a tea room owned by the National Trust. You may be tempted to enter and enjoy a cream tea, or to have a picnic on the banks of the Conwy and feed the ducks. On this side of the river you will also find the Llanrwst sports fields which when nature chooses become Llanrwst's water sports fields as the Conwy can flood at the blink of mother nature's tear filled eye.

On the way home, we decided to take the scenic route (we decided this same thing every day). We had no trouble through the Clocaenog Forest, but when we tried to go from Clawddnewydd to Bryneglwys, we became confused and thoroughly explored ALL of the white roads in the area. Then on to Wrexham and back to the boat with a second gyro dinner.

Monday, October 29

This was our day to see the island of Anglesey, where we had just missed by one week the annual oyster festival. We really had our taste buds set for them. We drove west, stopping at Betws-y-Coed to see the beautiful Swallow Falls. Then up the Nant Ffancon, past the slate quarries at Penrhyn. After crossing the Menai Bridge, we took the byway to Beaumaris, passed the castle and drove a scenic route to Penmon Priory.This tranquil location on the eastern tip of Anglesey has remains spanning over 1,000 years. It was the site of a monastery dating back to the time of St. Seiriol, who is believed to have lived in about the 6th century. A holy well that survives may have its origins in this period. The monastery prospered and in the 10th century fine crosses were set up at its gates, but the Viking raids destroyed all other evidence of this date. During the 12th century, revival under Gruffydd ap Cynan and Owain Gwynedd the abbey church was rebuilt, and it remains the finest and most complete example of a church of this period in Gwynedd. In the 13th century the Celtic monasteries were persuaded by Llywelyn ap Iorwerth to adopt a more regular rule, and Penmon eventually became an Augustinian priory with quite substantial conventual buildings. The priory survived the Edwardian conquest and expanded slightly, but was dissolved in 1538. The buildings passed into the hands of the Bulkeleys of Beaumaris, who enclosed much of the land as a deep park and built a fine dovecote. They also converted the prior's lodging into a rather attractive house. Throughout this time the priory church remained in use, as it does today.

Then we drove across the island to Holyhead, site of last week’s festival. No restaurant had oysters. We had a nice lunch at the very remote White Eagle (with beautiful new bathrooms), where they advised us to try in Menai Bridge. We took the coastal route down the island. We tried to find a Neolithic tomb and a church on an island that is isolated at low tide. We failed, but did find some interesting birds: lapwings, green-winged teal, mute swans, godwits, shovelers, etc. Then, at Newborough we saw a stronghold of Welsh rule in the 13th century. It’s still possible to see the layout of this court of the Princes of Gwynedd, as the ground plan is virtually intact. The Princes governed their realm through a local administration based on commotes, essentially small counties sub-divided into smaller townships. They controlled these by developing a peripatetic court, staying in each commote on an irregular cycle rather than establishing a singular capital per-se. Each commote maintained a suite of buildings in readiness for the visit of the princely entourage; these were called Llysoedd and were pivotal to the cohesiveness of Gwynedd. Each Llys was the centre of a small Royal estate, or Maerdref that provided directly for the Princes or their officials, who presided in the Princes' absence. Llys Rhosyr was the heart of Menai commote and is the most complete site to have been positively identified and partially excavated. Since 1992 over a quarter of the walled site has been exposed, yielding a number of finds, notably pottery, coins and other small artifacts. Rhosyr was probably largely abandoned in the years after the conquest of 1282. In the winter of 1330 a storm buried the site beneath sand dunes. Archaeologists have so far exposed the enclosure wall and three main buildings of the Llys. These are a large main hall and an adjacent building thought to have housed the Prince's private rooms. Llys Rhosyr is a significant site not least because it is the only Royal Court of the Princes of Gwynedd of which the ground plan remains virtually intact. Those elsewhere were despoiled at the conquest, or destroyed in the last century.

Our last stop was Bryn Celli, Bryn Celli Ddu (the mound in a dark grove) is the best passage grave in Wales. It started as a late Neolithic henge or ritual enclosure, with a stone circle surrounded by a bank and internal ditch. A later passage grave was built inside the ditch; the northeast entrance to the burial chamber is retained by a kerb of stones, which with the dry-stone walling of the outer passage, creates an elaborate forecourt. The narrow passage is 8.2m (27ft) long and 0.9m (3ft) wide with a low shelf along its north (right) side. This leads to a higher, polygonal burial chamber, 2.4m (8ft) wide, covered by two capstones. In the chamber is a tall, rounded, freestanding pillar, whose purpose is unknown. The whole passage was covered by a cairn, but the existing mound is a partial reconstruction, kept small so that three stones from the old stone circle and two other features behind the chamber, at the centre of the henge, can be seen. These other features are a pit (in which excavations revealed charcoal and a human ear-bone) and an upright stone carved on both faces and across the top with zigzag and spiral lines. The original pillar is now at the National Museum of Wales in Cardiff, but a replica has been set up in its presumed original position. The site was visited from 1699, and excavated in 1865 and 1927-31. In the passage and in the chamber excavations revealed both burnt and unburnt human bones, a stone bead, two flint arrowheads, a scraper and mussel shells. Outside the entrance and the ditch, a small, unusual ox burial was found. On the ridge to the north of the site (on the right of the lane as you return) is a tall standing stone Drove home, had a good dinner at the Black Dragon—Jerry had lamb shank and I had steak-and-kidney pie.

Tuesday, October 30

This was our day of rest. Went into town and did a lot of laundry. Visited the market and got a beautiful bird book, some shropshire blue cheese and an unusual blue cheddar. Also a beef and a pork pie. Had our tutorial on running the boat. Jerry is a natural. It is VERY long. In the afternoon, we wanted to visit Chirk Castle, but it was closed, so we decided to drive the scenic Vale of Ceiriog. Another convoluted route—scenic, but thin. The River Ceiriog rises in the Berwyn Mountains at 1,800 feet and then swiftly, impetuously, descends eastwards for some 18 miles to confluence with the more sedate River Dee. During its length, the Ceiriog Valley provides a myriad of different landscapes and every turn in the valley's meandering road brings something new and unexpected. The lush, pastoral valley floor 300 yards across at its widest point is home to sheep and cattle; they quietly graze beside the fast flowing, trout filled waters of the Ceiriog. Further up the valley, remote romantic rocky glens, and wooded slopes are overlooked by bare mountain summits and heather clad moorland. Here, the overwhelming feeling is of the impressiveness of the mountain slopes and a sense of peacefulness. This silence may only be broken by the call of a buzzard or the bleating of a lamb. 'A little bit of heaven on Earth' was how Lloyd George described the Ceiriog Valley. Surprisingly, this beautiful valley has remained relatively undiscovered, - a secret place. Only a few miles from the English border and the A5, one of the main tourist routes into North Wales, it has remarkably retained its cultural heritage and unspoiled countryside. The Ceiriog Valley lies immediately south of and parallel to the picturesque Vale of Llangollen. Yet it is the Ceiriog Valley that has been called 'little Switzerland' and given rise to three notable poets, undoubtedly inspired by their love for their homeland. It is all the more surprising; therefore, that had Lloyd George not spoken so passionately in its defense, we may never have known of its beauty. In 1923, Parliament was asked to grant statutory powers to impound the upper waters of the River Ceiriog and to evict the local population living within an area of 13,600 acres. Thankfully, commonsense prevailed and the proposal was defeated.

Wednesday, October 31

Sarah arrived early in the morning and we were off for our first day of cruising. The weather was gorgeous and the blue sky set off the orange, bronze and yellow leaves to perfection. Llangollen became important because of its prominent position on the main London to Holyhead coaching road that was improved by Thomas Telford from 1815 and continued for some 15 years. The Canal was also constructed around this and combined to bring considerable immigration into Llangollen during the early part of the 19th century. These improved communication routes and local natural resources made an ideal location for newly developing industries. One of the most popular waterways in Europe, the Llangollen Canal boasts scenic beauty and breathtaking engineering in equal measure. This 46-mile canal is beautiful throughout and is understandably very busy in the high season. Understated rural countryside, including the market towns of Whitchurch and Ellesmere, gives way to the majesty of the Chirk and Pontcysyllte Aqueducts - two of Britain's greatest waterway landmarks.

Jerry did a great job of steering down the narrow canal, giving way when we came to a bridge and avoiding collisions when we met another boat. There was not too much traffic; I imagine it is a nightmare in July and August. We only go about two miles an hour, so there’s plenty of time to take in all the scenery. We stopped for lunch at Jack Mytton’s Pub in Hindford after negotiating our first two locks. Sarah and I were very nervous at first, but everyone is helpful, and we were helping others by the second lock. We got to Chirk Aqueduct about three o’clock and had a great ride and great views of the railroad bridge as we crossed. Just at the end, the motor stopped working so we all got out and pulled. There was a “winding” (turnaround) at the end of the aqueduct, so Jerry took advantage of the space to “blow out” the leaves and we were back in business. Went about three miles back towards Ellesmere and moored in a very pleasant spot near the Lion’s Quay Pub. We had an excellent meal in the restaurant there and got a good night’s sleep on board.

Thursday, November 1

Next morning we resumed our sail and were back in port (it is a little quicker going downstream) shortly after noon. We had some soup at the Red Dragon, checked the Mere at Ellesmere for ducks and then headed for another chance at Chirk Caslte. This time it was open.

Chirk Castle, occupied virtually continuously as a castle and stately home for almost 700 years, sits on a hilltop with its best views over the Ceiriog valley to the south. The successor to two known mottes in the area, it was probably built by Roger Mortimer, of the powerful Marcher family, who was granted the area by Edward I after the Welsh defeat in 1282. He was almost certainly given royal assistance in its design and construction, and its similarities to Beaumaris suggest that work may have started as late as 1295, perhaps in response to the Welsh rising of 1294. The castle may have originally been envisaged as a rectangular enclosure with towers at the corners and halfway along each side. If so, only the northern half of the design survives, stopping beyond the central towers on the east and west. The simple gate through the eastern part of the north wall is probably original. Additional outer defenses were dismantled during later landscaping. The spirit of the 14th century structure is preserved in the Adam's Tower (near the well on the south-west), which has a magnificent dungeon on two levels and a number of upper rooms clearly showing the 5m-thick walls. Two of them contain 'murder holes', through which material could be poured on to anyone trying to batter or burn down the doors below. This tower, like the others, was originally at least one storey higher, the upper parts probably being removed after the Civil War bombardment of 1659.

The south curtain was completed on the present line early in the 15th century, under Thomas, earl of Arundel, probably against Owain Glyndwr's forces, who had strong local support. The chapel in the present southeast corner, possibly begun in the later 14th century, and the adjoining hall are the earliest surviving stone rooms outside the towers. Timber structures probably stood against the other walls. After the War of the Roses, the castle settled in royal hands on the execution of Sir William Stanley in 1495. The south range was partially rebuilt in 1529, reusing stone from earlier work. The old hall was subdivided and new living accommodation provided to its west. In 1563, the castle was granted to Elizabeth I's favorite, Robert Dudley, soon created earl of Leicester and Baron Denbigh, who held it as part of his extensive north Wales properties until his death in 1588. He may have reroofed it and added some of the square windows. The castle was purchased in 1595 for about L5,000 by Sir Thomas Myddelton, a son of the governor of Denbigh Castle and successful London merchant. As a founder of the East India Company, an investor in the expeditions of Drake, Raleigh and Hawkins, he had the means to convert Chirk into a comfortable Tudor residence. His new stone north range contained a hall, buttery and kitchen, with upstairs drawing and dining rooms. This range, with alterations, became the main living quarters of the castle, while the old south range was gradually given over to servants. Sir Thomas' son, the second Sir Thomas, took up residence on his marriage in 1612 and as MP for Denbighshire from 1625, found himself on the Parliamentarian side in the Civil War. Royalist supporters seized the castle in 1643, and held it for three years. Sir Thomas' Parliamentary forces meanwhile enjoyed some successes, including the capture of Powis Castle, although he could not bring himself to attack Chirk. The castle was eventually regained by bribery and Sir Thomas' son (Sir Thomas III) installed as governor. By 1651, however, the general had changed sides, and further payoffs were needed to dislodge the Parliamentarian garrison. Chirk was nevertheless besieged and taken by the Parliamentarians in 1659 as punishment for the Myddeltons' support of the Cheshire Rising. At the last moment it sustained the damage they had for so long sought to avoid. Most of the eastern side was demolished, and much of the rest burnt, leaving the family with a huge rebuilding task after the Restoration in 1660. A new stone range was now added on the east, in conjunction with the reconstruction of the curtain wall and towers. The new towers, although externally similar to their predecessors, had much thinner walls, while the range included a drawing room and long gallery at first floor level, with an arcaded walkway facing the courtyard beneath it. The old state bedroom in the southeast tower was given a new entrance from the long gallery. Sir Thomas III predeceased his father, and his son Sir Thomas IV, who came of age in 1672, supervised the decoration of the newly built rooms, completed, possibly with the help of William Wynde, in 1678. Only the long gallery survives to show the original style of this work. Within the east range, the main structure of the castle was complete, although minor alterations continued to be made. After an abortive episode in 1762-4, when a scheme for a Gothic interior was abandoned at an early stage, the north range was extensively refurbished in neo-classical style by Joseph Turner of Chester in the later 1760s and 1770s, the drawing room being completed by John Cooper of Beaumaris in about 1796. In the 1820s, however, gothic vaulting was added, and from 1845 the interior was almost totally reworked in the Gothic manner by A.W. Pugin, architect of the Houses of Parliament. Most of these alterations have been undone in recent years, with the exception of the Cromwell Hall, where a collection of Civil War arms is displayed. The castle remained in the hands of the Myddelton family, who still own and work much of the estate, until 1978. It is now in the care of the National Trust. The magnificent wrought iron gate-screen at the entrance to the park was made by Robert and John Davies of Bersham between 1712 and 1719. It originally stood a little way in front of the main castle gate, and was moved to its present position in 1770 during the landscaping of the park. We especially liked the fact that the chronological layout of the tour took us from modern to ancient and demonstrated how castle dwellers lived better than anything else we’ve seen.

On the way home, we took Sarah through the now familiar Vale of Ceiriog and had a much easier drive. Went back to the Red Dragon for dinner and Jerry had the mixed grill, which came on a turkey-serving platter with steak, black pudding, ham, sausage, lamb and pork, plus vegetables and at least three pounds of mashed potatoes. We wrapped the extra meat. Back at the boat, Sarah decided to head for home.

Friday, November 2

Had a pleasant drive south, despite a massive traffic jam at Bath. Stopped for a picnic to finish the remains of our victuals. Found the “secret” hill at Amesbury and were able to get a great panoramic view of Stonehenge without being overcome with people. Had a bit of trouble finding the Rokeby Guest House in Salisbury, but when we did it was very nice. After we settled in, we walked about 10 minutes into town, stopping at the Salisbury Art Gallery, a neat renovation of an old church into a bright exhibition space. We made reservations at Strada, an Italian restaurant recommended by our host, Mark, and went into the cathedral about four. We made the mistake of trying to see everything inside the cathedral and when we realized that it was getting late, we moved to the Convent House which holds one of four originals of the Magna Carta. Unfortunately, it was closed, and Jerry was disappointed. We returned to the cathedral and sat in for the first half of Evensong. Very beautiful music. We left because the service was for All Souls’ Day and was a full service with the Eucharist, and we had gotten the last reservation at the restaurant. We had a very good meal and walked home.

Saturday, November 3

We were very fortunate to find Langford Lakes Nature Reserve, where we used several hides to watch some new ducks and birds, especially the Great Crested Grebe. Our next stop this morning was the pretty market town of Wells. It was market day and the central square was filled with all kinds of vendors."Four miles from Glastonbury lies the little city of Wells, where is one of the neatest, and, in some respects, the most beautiful, cathedrals in England, particularly the west front of it, is one complete draught of imagery, very fine, and yet very ancient. This is a neat, clean city, and the clergy, in particular, live very handsomely. Here are no less than seven-and-twenty prebends, and nineteen canons, belonging to this church, beside a dean, a chancellor, a precentor, and three arch deacons; a number which very few cathedrals in England have, beside this. The city lies just at the foot of the mountains called Mendip Hills, and is itself built on a stony foundation. Its manufacture is chiefly of stockings, as is mentioned already; 'tis well built, and populous, and has several good families in it; so that there is no want of good company there." Daniel Defoe - A Tour Through the Whole Island of Great Britain (1724 - 6)

Around 700 AD, the West Somerset Saxon King, Ine, on the advice of Bishop Sherbourne, built the first church at Wells in honor of St. Andrew. The Wells area was rich in resources and so would certainly have been inhabited for some time. Wells and Somerset got their first Bishop, Athelm two centuries later and Wells was raised to the status of Cathedral Church. It was on the arrival of the Norman Bishop, John De Vilula, that the seat was moved to Bath. He assumed the title Bishop of Bath and Wells fell into decay. Robert of Lewes, his successor, repaired damaged buildings of Wells, gave the clergy an efficient administration and granted a charter that marked the start of the city's independence. Wells was later granted three further Charters. It now had the right to hold weekly markets and four fairs a year. Bishop Reginald de Bolun pulled down the old Cathedral and began building the current one around 1180. He was only responsible for the transepts, parts of the choir and nave and the north porch. His successors completed the project that took 250 years. Wells Cathedral The stone used to build the Cathedral was brought from Doulting, a village east of Wells. Doulting regularly provides any stone needed for repairs, as the limestone is quite soft. The magnificent West Front contains about 400 carved figures, some larger than life size, some smaller. The Virgin and Child sit over the central door. Higher up, Old and New Testament scenes are depicted such as the Creation. Adam and Eve and the Last Supper. Further up come two rows of "The Elect", life size statues of saints, bishops, Kings, ladies and hermits. Higher still, scenes from the Resurrection are depicted. At the summit is a new statue of the Risen Christ. This was unveiled in 1986 during a service on the Green in the presence of the Prince of Wales. Originally the Cathedral statues were painted beautiful, vivid colors and gold. It must have been sight to see. It was certainly intended that Wells was the finest Cathedral for miles around. The north transept contains a most unusual clock. Hourly, a figure of a bearded man in red (Jack Blandiver) sitting above and to the right of the clock, rings the clock's bells with hands hammering and feet kicking. A mini castle is immediately over the dial. Four mounted knights come out. Two move to the left, the other two to the right. They revolve and at each revolution one knight is knocked backwards on his horse. This happens several times before the tournament is over for another quarter of an hour. Once the home of the Vicars Choral, the Vicars' Close is said to be the oldest planned street in Europe. The behavior of the said vicars was often scandalous with womanizing, fighting and stealing. Bishop Ralph of Shrewsbury formed the vicars into a college and built the Vicars' Close to house them keeping temptation well away. At the bottom of the close is a stairway that took the Vicars directly to their hall giving them further protection. It is linked to the Cathedral by a covered bridge. Wells Museum and the Liberty Wells Market Wells holds twice weekly markets in the market place (Saturday's and Wednesdays). You can buy a wide range of goods from clothes and jewellery to organic vegetables, plants and olives. Please click to see more photographs of Wells Market. In the market place in 1695, the Quaker, William Penn the founder of Pennsylvania preached to a huge crowd. He was arrested for unlawful assembly, only to return some weeks later to continue his crusade at St. Cuthbert's Church. The Cathedral covers the whole diocese whereas the parish church for the city is St Cuthbert's, named after an Anglo-Saxon saint. The church is the place of worship for the Mayor and Corporation and has been since the Middle Ages. During Monmouth's rebellion Wells was the Headquarters for the Somerset militia with St Cuthberts being used to house them as well as their gunpowder barrels. St Cuthbert's is the largest parish church in Somerset and the site has been used since Saxon times when the first church was built. The church was rebuilt by the Normans with the present building, the third to stand on the site, dating from the fifteenth century.

We bought a delicious sausage sandwich (in a bab) from a man who assured us it was “farm-made”, notfactory-made. Then we headed for Glastonbury. We got turned around in the town, as apparently everyone is expected to walk the three or four miles to the abbey and the Tor. The town was chock full of witches and warlocks and crystal shops. It was very creepy. We drove as close to the Tor as we could, but decided against climbing to the top. We had a lot more planned to do that day.

Glastonbury, a small town about 125 miles or 220 km west of London, is full of myth and legend. In ancient times, Glastonbury lay in a triangle with the enormous stone circles of Stonehenge and Avebury - between them they formed a world energy-point. Great circle lines go from Glastonbury to many sacred centres worldwide. Glastonbury has long been a pilgrimage place, attracting travelers from far and wide. It was a pilgrimage place in Druidic times (2,000-2,500 years ago) and further back in Megalithic times, 4,000 years ago. A prominent site in town is the Glastonbury Tor (tor means rocky hill or peak). The Tor has many legends connected to it. One says that it was the location of King Arthur's stronghold. Another legend says that it is the home of the Faery King and that the top of the Tor was a place of fairy visions and magic. A Celtic legend says that the hill is hollow and that the top guards the entrance to the Underworld, as well as being the home of the Lord of the Underworld, Gwyn ap Nudd. Glastonbury is also believed to be the place known in Arthurian lore as the Isle of Avalon. According to the legend, Arthur, after being mortally wounded by Mordred, was taken by a sacred boat to Avalon. And it is in Avalon that Arthur awaits the day when Britain requires his services as the "once and future king".

From Glastonbury, we drove west through the Quantock Hills, along Bridgwater Bay, then down through the Exmoor National Park to Tiverton. Of the West Country's three great moors, Exmoor is unique in having a coastline. The moor's edge extends right to the cliffs and the little harbors along the coast were of vital importance from early times. The Exmoor and North Devon area was recently voted the 2nd most scenic area in the UK (Collins Atlas). Another survey chose this area as one of 3 of the most tranquil areas in UK (CPRE). Exmoor - has been a National Park for over 50 years. Straddling Somerset and North Devon its rich variety of scenery includes heather moorland, ancient oak woods, deep secluded valleys and a spectacular coastline. Its landscapes and seascapes are dotted with towns, villages, harbors and resorts full of character and charm, stretches of Exmoor are owned by the National Trust or protected as Nature Reserves.

Drove to Taunton on the M5, then took a scenic route past another Nature Reserve. We weren’t so lucky this time as there were none of the famed herons about. We did find our way to the Burrow Hill Cider Farm, where we sampled some delicious products and bought some cider and some cider brandy to ward the chill off the winter nights to come. Goat a bit turned around on our way home (not much fun in the dark on one lane roads). Just before Rokeby, we came upon the Pelican Pub and had an excellent last meal—pheasant and venison. At the B&B we were treated to a fireworks display put on by our hosts’ son and his friends.

Sunday, November 4

Made it back to Gatwick without incident (although there were some nervous moments when the car check-in person kept staring at the tires on the passenger side—once or twice, Jerry had hit the curbs). We had to repack everything, as British airports only allow one, 5kg carry-on, which disallowed the camera pack. We did board, and were pleasantly surprised by the comfortable seats in our upgraded comdition. The flight was almost pleasant. Herb and his wife were waiting for us. Got home, got a pizza, and tried to stay up till ten. Jerry made it, I didn’t.