Gail South
Sydney through Coorong
Adelaide to Brisbane
Australia, October, 2012
Tues., Oct 2: depart EWR Cont 6:30 pm; arrive Sydney 6:25 am
Thu, Oct 4: (missed day) Quest on Dixon Darling Harbour
Fri, Oct 5,Sydney: Herb picked us up at 1 and we were at Newark by 2:30. The flight was an hour late boarding, and then we sat on the tarmac for three more hours, so we missed our flight to Sydney. After much hassle, we got vouchers and a van to the Holiday Inn 45 min away in Oakland, arriving at 4 am EDT . The bar was closed. We slept for 6 hours, had a good breakfast, then discovered there was no van to be had. We took a $100 cab to SFO and waited. The flight to LA was uneventful. Had lunch then used our free pass to get into the United Club, where we watched Obama and Romney debate. They called our flight at 9:30 am, we boarded and spent the next 14.5 hours in tiny seats, arriving in Sydney at 6:30 am. Called the insurance company and started the claim process. The hotel is part of a chain we later found allover Australia. The building is made up of self-contained modern, urban apartments. It is located in Sydney’s Chinatown, a short walk from the CBD. Decided to take advantage of the free tour and met our guide for this 3 hour, easy-walking tour. It should have been easy, but I was on my last legs, literally. They gave out at The Rocks, and we left the group after only two hours. It was a very good overview of the history and the sites of Australia’s most popular city:
Sydney Opera House
The Harbour Bridge
The Rock's District
Cadman's Cottage
Hyde Park Barracks
The 'Rum' Hospital
St Mary's Cathedral
The Tank Stream
Fort Denison
Pitt St Shopping Mall
Angel Lane-bird caged old street
Martin Place
Sydney Tower
Hyde Park
Circular Quay
Town Hall
We found the Australian version of AAA and picked up some maps, then had a good lunch (grilled octopus appetizer, lamb rump for Jerry and roast suckling pig for me) at Medusa. We (I) staggered home and rested. We did a load of laundry.
Sat., Oct 6: left bags in hotel; flew Sydney to Ayers Rocks; dep. 9:50 am, arr 1:05 pm; Arrived in Uluru and rode shuttle to our hotel, Desert Gardens Hotel, a nice hotel at Voyages Ayers Rock Resort. Magnificent ghost gums and flowering native shrubs are the setting for this hotel. Our room is very comfortable with a nice frig and bathroom, and a patio. Jerry walked to the town center and bought back kangaroo sandwiches and some breakfast fixings. Took a little walk and saw some new birds. Still a bit jet-lagged. In the afternoon, we began exploring Uluru Kata Tjuta National Park, taken by coach to the sunset viewing area. We enjoyed nibbles and a glass of wine as the sun sank over the western horizon and the evening sky brought out the many shades of color for which Uluru is famous. We were very tired. I went to bed at 7:45 and Jerry got a sandwich and followed an hour later.
Sun., Oct 7-- Around Uluru - Uluru Sunrise Tour & Afternoon Kata Tjuta Guided Walk— Desert Gardens Hotel Rose at 4 am to travel to the Uluru sunrise viewing area. Watched the first rays of dawn illuminate the Rock. Then we returned to the bus for a tour around the base of Uluru. Walked the Mutitjulu Walk to the beautiful Mutitjulu Waterhole. Viewed Aboriginal rock paintings and learned about the area, while getting some good bird photos. Visited the Uluru - Kata Tjuta Cultural Centre and had a snack before returning to the hotel about 10.
Left again at 2:30 to travel to the mystical 36 domes of Kata Tjuta. On the way, we stopped at a lookout for a panoramic view of the southern side of Kata Tjuta. Well over 100 degrees with 10% humidity. Continued on to the base of Walpa Gorge where we spend some time exploring the gorge and the unusual conglomerate rock formations. The walking trail through Walpa Gorge follows the natural creek between two of the tallest domes of Kata Tjuta. It was just too hot to walk the whole trail. In the late afternoon we traveled back to the Uluru sunset viewing area where we again witnessed and photographed the striking color changes of Uluru at sunset while enjoying nibbles and a glass of wine. Then we changed coaches and went further into the park for a very nice BBQ with good steaks, lamb sausages, and kangaroo (not my favorite). We saw a shooting star as we listened to a talk under a gorgeous starry sky. Back to the hotel and to bed.
Mon., Oct 8-- Depart Uluru; fly to Sydney; dep 1:45pm, arr 6:20;Quest on Dixon Darling Harbour--laundry Walked around Chinatown and looked for a place to eat in the area. We became the only patrons at a Japanese “grill-it-in-front-of-you” restaurant and had very oily meals. Not so hot.
Tue., Oct 9--pu car in town (Drive-now car hire) 8am; Grand Pacific Drive to Merimbula (481 km); National Rt 1South Seas Motel is now closed (rented through Hotels.com). We were transferred to the Sandpiper, but, as no one serves dinner after 8:30, we had to go join the Bowling Club Sapphire to get dinner, a dozen oysters for me and spaghetti for Jerry. Drove south out of Sydney and through the Royal National Park, to begin the cliff-hugging Grand Pacific Drive. Royal National Park is the second oldest national park in the world, offering spectacular scenery from sub tropical rainforests and sandstone heathlands, to dramatic coastal cliffs and unspoiled ocean beaches. Stopped at Stanwell Tops to take in stunning coastal views from the cliff-tops.Drove over the dramatic Sea Cliff Bridge, which spans 455 meters over the ocean, enjoying the amazing scenery, quaint coastal villages and uninterrupted views of the ocean into the scenic city of Wollongong. Stopped in Kiama where the infamous Kiama Blowhole pushes its way through the rocks. up to 60 meters with great force creating an almighty roar. The Region is a rich mosaic of rugged sea cliffs, golden sandy beaches, dairy pastures and historic towns. The lush green hills that literally surround the beaches and township offer a spectacular backdrop while modest development has helped Kiama maintain its charm and reputation as a casual, relaxing resort town with a true community feel, truly, it is where the green pastures meet the sand. Continued through the lush rolling hills where the crimson century plants lend bright splashes of color. Drove south to Pebbly Beach with resident kangaroos and lots of parrots and kookaburras. Had a dozen oysters and a baby occty salad at a roadside stand.
Wed., Oct 10--Grand Pacific Drive to Melbourne 606 km & Punthill ManhattanIn the whale watching town of Eden, we each had a dozen oysters for breakfast, but saw no whales. Continued on across the Victorian border to the pretty coastal town of Mallacoota, on the tranquil, shimmering lakes of Mallacoota Inlet. At Gipsy Point we saw kangaroos, teal and black swans w cygnets. There are over 280 species of birds living in this unspoiled region and 90 species of orchids as well as other flora and fauna. Saw, but couldn’t photograph, a lyrebirds.Punthill Manhattan--Located within the heart of the Melbourne CBD near the stylish and trendy Paris end of Collins Street, Punthill Manhattan offers quality apartments with a distinct warehouse style reminiscent of New York living. A very good description of the unit, with separate rooms, a full kitchen, and a washer/dryer right on the middle of everything.
Thu., Oct 11--Melbourne--Punthill ManhattanFirst went to Federation Square Visitor Center. Took the free City Circle Tram for a 90 minute city overview. An audio commentary provides details of city landmarks and major attractions such as the City Museum, Parliament House, Docklands, Federation Square, Melbourne Aquarium and the Princess Theatre. Information leaflets, including an 'easy to understand' map of the city are available on board each City Circle Tram. The City Circle Tram can be used as a 'hop-on-hop off' service to enjoy each of Melbourne's sites and have the added bonus of traditional Melbourne transportation. Stopped first at the Victoria Market where we got some Christmas presents (more about that later). Then disembarked at the Royal Botanic Gardens Melbourne, a treasured part of Melbourne's cultural life and a valuable asset to the heritage-rich city. With its stunning vistas, tranquil lakes and diverse plant collections, the Gardens are a place of continual discovery and delight. The newly opened Guilfoyle's Volcano in the Gardens offers visitors a fabulous new precinct to explore. The Gardens also provide a natural sanctuary for native wildlife such as the black swans, eels, bell birds, cockatoos and kookaburras. It was chilly with a little rain, so we had tea in the Gift Shop, then rejoined the bus. Went to a lunchtime organ recital at St. Marks Cathedral. It was good, several Bach pieces, but we left early because it was bothering Jerry’s hearing aids. Stopped for a good lunch of gnocchi at the Yak Bar, where Jerry discovered he had lost the Christmas presents. While he went back to the market, I toured the Ian Potter Centre. Home to Australian art with superb collections of Australian Indigenous and non-Indigenous art from the Colonial period to the present day. With more Australian art on permanent display than any other gallery in the world, as well as special exhibitions and programs, cafes, a restaurant and a new perspective of the city through its glass matrix, NGV Australia is more than a great place to view art. It's a completely fresh approach that encourages people from all walks of life to enjoy the world of art within the new cultural heart of Melbourne. The aboriginal art was fascinating and well organized, with good explanations of the stories.Attended Evensong at St Paul’s Cathedral, built on the site where the first public Christian services in Melbourne were led by Dr Alexander Thomson in 1836. The Swanston Street and Flinders Street corner remains one of Melbourne’s busiest intersections today, ensuring the Cathedral a place at the heart of city life. The Architectural style of the Cathedral is described as Gothic transitional, being partly Early English and partly Decorated. On 22 January 1891 the Cathedral was consecrated, although it was not the building we see today. The erection of the spires did not begin until 1926, and then to the design of John Barr of Sydney rather than using the original design of an octagonal central tower and gable west end towers of Butterfield. In the 1960s extensive work was carried out on the exterior, and in 1989 a major National Trust appeal to enable the restoration of the Cathedral’s magnificent organ. More recently, and completed in 2009, restoration works to both interior and exterior. St Paul's enjoys a long tradition of musical excellence. Founded in 1888, some three years before the opening of the Cathedral, the Choir took up temporary lodging at All Saints Church, St Kilda, while the building of the Cathedral was completed. Boys and men were recruited, and after three years' training, all were ready for the great day, 22 January 1891, when the Choir led the procession of clergy into the Cathedral for the official opening. The present Choir consists of 18 boys and 16 men.Went to Tazio, 66 Flinders La., a very nice Italian restaurant, for dinner. I had pizza, and Jerry had pappardelle with rabbit. Did laundry and to bed.
Fri., October 12--Melbourne to Port Fairy via Great Ocean Rd. (5 hrs 22 min)Central Motel. Drove into Geelong on the Bellarine Peninsula. Continued onto Torquay, where the spectacular, cliff-hugging Great Ocean Road begins. The great waves continue at Fairhaven and Eastern View, en route to the seaside holiday haven of Lorne. Watched the rugged cliffs drop dramatically to ocean on one side and national park on the other diving into Apollo Bay. Drove through the Great Otway National Park, a temperate rainforest with ancient mossy trees, cool fern gullies, waterfalls and a coast of tall cliffs and caves. Walked to Erskine Falls and saw Airey’s Lighthouse. Pounded by wild seas and fierce winds, the coastlines of the Port Campbell National Park and Bay of Islands Coastal Park have been sculpted over millions of years to become one of the most breathtakingly beautiful natural areas in the world. Further down the coast the Discovery Bay Coastal Park is a majestic 50-kilometre sweep of ocean beach, huge dunes and coastal lakes. Curving round the coast are the craggy limestone towers of the Twelve Apostles and Loch Ard Gorge rising out of the Southern Ocean.. Continued along Shipwreck Coast, named after the wild seas that sent at least 700 ships crashing on the rocks. Stopped at Tower Hill State Game Reserve, which sits inside an extinct volcano. Saw koalas, emus and many species. Formed some 30,000 years ago in a violent volcanic eruption that created a funnel-shaped crater (later filled by a lake), creeks and islands, Tower Hill's vegetation was originally very diverse, until early European settlers cleared much of it for grazing, leaving the area bare with little wildlife remaining until it was restored in the late 1950s.Stayed at the Central Hotel in Port Fairy, with its old whitewashed cottages and Georgian-style homes. It looked like an old West town. Had an OK dinner at the pub, then walked to Griffiths Island. It was cold and began to pour rain, but we persisted in order to see the Mutton Birds, or Shearwaters, one of Port Fairy’s most amazing natural attractions, flying in at dusk to feed their nestlings. The Mutton Birds are a spectacular natural life cycle that Port Fairy is lucky to share with the wider community. The Shearwaters have an annual migration cycle to the Pacific Ocean. Their lifecycle really is fascinating – they generally return to the breeding area on the same day each year and occupy the same nest as the previous year, with the same breeding partner. They usually embark on their annual migratory voyage, which passes Japan and skirts the coast of North America, on April 16 each year. They call the Aleutian Islands near Alaska home for several months before undertaking their return journey. Two months and an incredible 15,000 kilometers later, they return to Port Fairy on September 22. We saw thousands return just after dark.
Saturday morning market on the Village Green then off for trip to Coorong (4 hrs 38 min)--Coorong Wilderness Lodge
Continued along the coastal road to Portland, Victoria’s first European settlement. Drove the scenic coastal route to rugged Cape Nelson State Park and the towering sea cliffs of Cape Bridgewater and the deep-blue waters of Bridgewater Bay. Explored a sand-petrified forest and saw Australian Gannets and Kelp Gulls. Back on the highway, drove through Nelson and across the South Australian border to Mount Gambier, which sits on an ancient extinct volcano and is circled by crater lakes such as Blue Lake, named after the vivid colour it turns from November to February. Then drove through the fishing towns of the Limestone Coast to picturesque Robe. In Millicent we took a long walk around Lake McIntyre and saw many, many neat birds. Drove north through Kingston South East, and the Coorong Wilderness Lodge.
The Coorong has a rich diversity of wetland birds. The evocative dunes, lagoons, freshwater soaks and ephemeral lakes of the Coorong linger in the memory. Together they form a wetland of international importance and support vast numbers of water birds. From the mouth of the Murray River, the Coorong stretches 145km southeast and is rarely more than 4km in width. Pelicans are evident at Jack Point and elsewhere in the park, as are ducks, waders, shore birds, including the red-headed avocet, and swans. The Ngarrindjeri people are still closely connected to this area; the name Coorong is derived from the Ngarrindjeri word ‘Karangk’, meaning ‘long neck’. Traveling through at sunset is serenely beautiful. We experienced the sunset. After arriving, we thought it was deserted, but a guest, Chris, appeared to tell us the key was in the door of our lovely cabin. Two emus came to say hello. Unfortunately, the dining room was closed so we went 15 minutes into Meningie to a diner. Home and watched night fall. Beautiful.
Separated from the breakers of the Southern Ocean by a peninsula of sand dunes, the Coorong is a hundred-kilometer salt water lagoon. The Coorong's lakes and waterways team with birdlife - white-faced herons, pelicans, egrets, swans, gulls and migratory birds. The Coorong has been declared a wetland of international importance. It is one of the most important waterbird habitats in Australia. Less than three kilometers wide, it is an inland sea of shimmering, shallow lagoons and is home to over two hundred bird species, including migratory birds from as far away as Europe and Asia. During the warmer months the Coorong becomes home to thousands of migratory birds such as sandpipers, stilts and stints. The Coorong Lagoon is a very important area for migratory wading birds and serves as a refuge in the drier months for many water birds. Of the 238 bird species which have been recorded, nine are introduced species. Some are oceanic birds which have only been recorded in the Coorong area as dead birds stranded on the ocean beach. There is ample opportunity to see a variety of birds as the Coorong is internationally renown for waterfowl that gather to feed. One of Australia's most breathtaking national parks, it is a major breeding ground for pelicans, native ducks, black swans and ibis. Of course, the world's largest breeding colony of the Australian Pelican nests here. There are also abundant numbers of emu, kangaroo, reptiles and fish - particularly the famous Coorong Mullet.
Sun., Oct. 14--Coorong to Adelaide (2.5 hours)
North Adelaide Heritage Group Paprika Cottage (laundry w kitchen)
Warrawong Wildlife Sanctuary (free) is a privately run wildlife sanctuary, strongly fenced off from the outside, allowing it to remain completely free of feral plants and animals, especially cats. W walked around and saw one wallabee, some birds and a koala in a tree. Pretty drive into Adelaide. Rolling hills, sheep and cows. Paprika Cottage is great: “The Gardener’s Cottage”, and Arts & Crafts style retreat with living room, kitchen, bedroom and large bath. Settled in, then drove into town. This elegant city is known for its colonial stone architecture, expansive parklands, lively festivals and incredible sense of space. North Terrace, took us past the Casino (Railway Station below), Parliament House, Government House, the State Library, Migration Museum (which was really interesting), Art Gallery, Adelaide University, University of South Australia, Royal Adelaide Hospital, the Botanic Gardens.
Migration Museum--Explore vibrant exhibitions on immigration history in South Australia. Featuring a number of hands-on displays, the main galleries take you from pre-European Australia to the present day through a range of personal stories and engaging objects. The exhibitions highlight the many different cultures that make up our community. We celebrate the diversity of cultures in South Australia and also look at the more challenging aspects of immigration history, including the impact immigration has had on Indigenous people. Explored the youthful energy humming beneath the city’s elegant exterior along Rundle Street’s and Gouger Street’s popular dining strips. Did some more Christmas shopping, then went to Scoozi Cafe Bar and had a good meal with good wine. Jerry finally had barramundi. Home early. Laundry.
Mon, Oct 15--Kangaroo Island; return car to Adelaide airport (leave luggage at airport; storage lockers near rental car offices ca $35) and fly to KI 9:30 am arr 10:05 am; two day tour with KI Discovery Tours; Hotel KI Seafront Resort We were picked up by Kim at the Airport and headed for Island Beehive, one of Australia's largest organic honey producers, an apiary industry showcase for Kangaroo Island's world renowned Ligurian Bee. We tasted their award-winning honey and delicious honey ice-cream. The next stop was the Hanson Bay Wildlife Sanctuary Koala Viewing on the Koala Walk. Strolled down Koala Walk and observed the amazing and beautiful Koalas relaxing in the avenue of shady Eucalyptus trees. Also saw Tammar Wallabies, Kangaroos and native Birds in their natural habitat and environment. And the owner brought out a baby kangaroo she was nursing. We stopped for a big lunch at a cafe, and then to Kingscote (main town of KI) one of the most important Heritage sites in South Australia, Kim gave us lots of history of Kingscote. On to Vivonne Bay to watch the Birds of Prey raptor domain presentation. They were not free, but were very well cared for and interesting to see up closeThen back to the Kangaroo Island Seafront Resort and our very comfortable oceanfront room to relax and have a delicious two-course Dinner at, Penny’s, the main restaurant in town. Then we met Grant, who took us four-wheeling through back country where we saw literally hundreds of Kangaroo Island Kangaroos (they are more chocolatey colored than mainland grays) and a few wallabies. Ended the evening with a tour of the nests of the Little Blue Penguins. We were fortunate to see a pair of them, as they are both nocturnal and shy. Grant had a red flashlight and we were able to get quite close.
Tues., Oct 16--Sorrento’s Restaurant for a delicious full breakfast, a great way to start the day! Kim picked us up at 8:00am and we then picked up a young, honeymooning couple who were joining us for the day. We headed to Pennington Bay with a superb surf beach, a popular place for fishing and swimming and Pelican Lagoon the inner bay, a natural fish nursery protected as an Aquatic Reserve. The islands within the lagoon are important bird-breeding habitats. Black Swans, Cape Barren Geese, Australian Pelicans and other birds made the area an excellent bird-watching destination. Then to American River where Kim drove us through this quiet, friendly fishing town nestled on a hillside in native bushland and explained the history of this town. The Kangaroo Island oyster industry is based here, with the wharf being a hive of activity during the season. We next visited Seal Bay Conservation Park where Kim took us on the beach to get up close and personal with the Australian Sea-Lion colony. Watched them surf the waves and feed their young. Then we headed to the island’s largest national park Flinders’s Chase at the western end of the Island. Drove through the park to Admirals Arch to see the colony of New Zealand Fur Seals. Next stop were the Remarkable Rocks; these are large granite boulders standing dramatically on the cliff top which plunges 75 meters into the Southern Ocean. At the National park we had a nice lunch.
The honeymooning couple really wanted to see Kelly Caves, so we agreed. Beneath the vast expanse of native bushland of Kelly Hill Conservation Park lies a maze of surprising caves. We joined one of the regular guided tours to discover Kelly Hill Caves' treasures of impressive stalagmites, stalactites, helictites and straws. At the end, the other tour members left and we were shown an interesting cave. Last but not least was the Pelican Feeding in Kingscote. Kim provided an entertaining and informative talk about the pelicans and other sea birds, while encouraging their participation with fish treats.
Wed, Oct 17--fly to Adelaide (get luggage), dep 10:30am to 11:05 am; After a full breakfast Kim took us back to the airport. We stored our carry-ons with the other luggage and took a cab into Adelaide. The credit card worked. Had a light lunch and the credit card was declined. Went to a Westbank (after unsuccessfully trying to use a pay phone), and a kind employee, Shaun, called BoA who said the card was fine. Had a tour of the State Library and used the internet there. Spent the afternoon at the South Australia Museum and learned a lot about Aborigine history and culture. Dinner at a Greek restaurant, then cabbed back to the airport and waited.(robdannials@yahoo.com.au) fly to Darwin; dep 10:15 pm, arr 0:55 pm Best Western Darwin Airport Gateway Motel
Thu, Oct 18--pu car at airport (Vroom,Vroom,Vroom 10 am); drive to Eden Fogg (1 hour—80km)Eden at Fogg Dam--laundry available will need instruction, Jeremy will take care of us; evening meals not an option. Pick up groceries in Coolalinga. Eden is a certified organic tropical fruit farm located between Fogg Dam Conservation Reserve and Harrison Dam. Eden is home to prolific species of birds, butterflies, wallabies and other wildlife. Relax and unwind at Eden with tropical verandas, swimming pool, outdoor dining area and tropical gardens. Eden has plenty of room for private 'self' time in our spacious, tropically designed home. Eden is 65 km (40 miles) from the centre of Darwin en route to World Heritage Kakadu National Park. Drive or cycle 2km to Fogg Dam, internationally renowned to birdwatchers and biologists. We have reserved the TROPICAL SUITE, a spacious, self-contained suite overlooking garden to native bush was designed for comfort in the tropics by an award winning architect. Expanses of louvers link you to the outside and capture breeze from every direction. Overhead fans and air-conditioning ensure your comfort. There is a queen sized bed, quality sofa bed, fully equipped kitchen with selection of teas, coffee, milk, fruit and biscuits, lounge area with DVD player, TV and modern bathroom. I rested till 4 while Jerry went for a (very hot) walk. Temp in the upper nineties and humid.
Drove up to Fogg Dam Conservation Reserve and across the dam walls. Fogg Dam Conservation Reserve covers 1,569 hectares and has an international reputation among birdwatchers and biologists as well as being enjoyed by tourists and local Territorians. The area is important to the Limilngan-Wulna Aboriginal people who have stories of their ancestors in the landscape. What makes Fogg Dam so interesting is its diverse habitat and wildlife all within easy walking distance. The monsoon and eucalypt forest, open scrubland, melaleuca woodland, floodplain and open water attract significant numbers of birds, reptiles, mammals and marsupials. It is said to have the greatest predator biomass known in the world. Sedges, grasses, pandanus and waterlilies can be seen seasonally in the floodplain. Lotus lilies and grass islands feature in the water. The year round presence of water birds is a major attraction and all wetland bird species of the Top End (what they call this area of Australia) are regularly spotted at Fogg Dam. Three shelters along the dam wall and three platforms accessed from walking tracks through the bush assist viewing. The best time of day to visit Fogg Dam is early to mid morning and late afternoon when it’s cooler and wildlife is more active. At dawn and sunset, Fogg Dam can be spectacular with its myriad greens and golds highlighted by the pink sky. We did sunset today and will try and do sunrise tomorrow.
Fri, Oct 19—to Kakadu NP--Gagudju Lodge
Sunrise at Eden Dam: Being there for sunrise was very special. About half an hour before, as soft light precedes the colorful sunrise, the dawn chorus of birds begins – an unforgettable experience!
Kakadu NP--Gurrung, from mid-August to mid-October, is hot and dry, but from mid-October is the pre-monsoon season of hot weather that becomes more and more humid. It was 37C (98.6F). The drive was very interesting with lots of birds. Cathedral termite mounds were over ten feet high.
South Alligator region: This site is particularly dramatic at this time of year as a multitude of bird species congregate here (Thousands of Magpie Geese). A covered observation platform overlooking this wetland allows you to view the wildlife. A mural on the wall of the observatory illustrates seasonal changes that occur through the year.
Jabiru region-Bowali Visitor Centre Pay @$25 entrance fee: This centre contains a wealth of information about Kakadu's natural heritage including plants, animals, history and park management practices. It is also a vital stop for the latest updates on road conditions, wet season access and information about things to see and do.Drove into the main town, Jabiru, for a good dinner at the Holiday Inn. The “Bistro” at our camp is al fresco and it’s just too hot. Jerry had barramundi again, and I had the “tasting platter” with crocodile tempura, barramundi two ways, kangaroo skewers and buffalo kofti.
Sat., Oct 20 (6:25 am)-- Yellow Water Center: This center, developed by the park's Traditional Owners, provides detailed information about Aboriginal culture in Kakadu. It covers a wide array of subjects including family, food, history, hunting, art and stories. Yellow Water is part of the South Alligator River floodplainThe sunrise Yellow Water boat was a marvelous opportunity to see the varied birdlife of Kakadu’s World Heritage wetlands. Yellow Water Billabong, Kakadu's most famous wetland, is located at the end of Jim Jim Creek, a tributary of the South Alligator River. The river system, which is the largest in Kakadu, contains extensive wetlands that include river channels, floodplains and backwater swamps. Reservation. About one third of Australia's bird species are represented in Kakadu National Park, with at least 60 species found in the wetlands. Whistling Ducks and Magpie Geese are the most abundant. The guides run a competition between themselves on who can find "the big five" on one cruise - all five species of kingfisher that can be found in Kakadu. One species is only 2 cm tall. We saw it and two of the others. There are plenty of crocodiles in their natural habitat, and buffalo on the floodplains. A huge Jabiru's nest is nearby, and depending on the season, Brolgas can be found dancing. Drove from Kakadu to Darwin (4 hours) on the “old Darwin Road”, for four-wheel drive vehicles only. Saw lots of great birds. Got to the Best Western Darwin Airport, returned the car, had dinner at Loong Fong’s Chinese restaurant and to bed early.
Sun., Oct 21--fly to Cairns; dep 6:20 am to 9:20 am (JQ058), Kuranda, to Port Douglas; pu car at Leisurewheels. Plane was delayed a half hour, but the pilot made up the time.
Skyrail to Kuranda, Skytrain return (@$99) (left big luggage in locker at the terminal)The Skyrail experience, spanning 7.5kms over pristine rainforest, allows you to explore the wonders of an ancient tropical rainforest and learn about one of the most botanically fascinating and diverse areas on earth. We alit at Skyrail’s two rainforest mid-stations, Red Peak and Barron Falls, where we explored this amazing environment from the forest floor on boardwalks, scenic look-outs and in the state-of-the-art Rainforest Interpretation Centre. Then we arrived at Kuranda, affectionately known as 'The Village in the Rainforest', nestled amongst the magnificent World Heritage listed tropical rainforest. We had lunch then took the Kuranda Scenic Railway for a 1 hour and 45 minute journey down the tropically clad mountainous range from Kuranda to Cairns City.
Drove to the Lazy Lizard with comfortable studio units, with kitchenettes, air-conditioning, ceiling fans and room to spread out and relax. Nice hosts recommended the Port Douglas Yacht Club for dinner, and we ended up going there for all three nights of our stay. Good food, reasonable prices and beautiful sunset views. Mon., Oct 22--Port Douglas; Lazy LizardDaintree NP birdwatching—(@$245)The 110-million-year-old World Heritage-listed Daintree Rainforest, 2 hours north of Cairns, gets most of the attention, but tracts of rainforest closer to Cairns are just as pristine. These rainforests and the Daintree are part of the Wet Tropics, a World Heritage area that stretches from Cape Tribulation to Townsville. This dense, lush environment has remained unchanged by ice ages and other geological events, and the plants and animals retain primitive characteristics. In the tract's mangroves, eucalyptus woodlands, and tropical rainforest are 65% of Australia's bird species, 60% of its butterfly species, and many of its frogs, reptiles, bats, marsupials, and orchids. Tropical North Queensland Bird Safaris (finefeathertours.com.au), with Del Richards; depart 7:30 am, return about 5:00 pm. This was a wonderful day with over 500 photographs taken. Del is an excellent guide. We had a fellow traveller who was a less than optimal companion, but that was the only drawback.
Tue., Oct 23—Port Douglas; Lazy Lizard FULL DAY OUTER REEF SNORKEL (@$200)
Highlight of the trip so far!! We were very lucky. The sea was like glass and the day was slightly overcast so it was not too hot and there were lots of fish and gorgeous coral.A bus picked us up at the hotel and dropped us as the WAVELENGTH private Jetty. On boarding at 8.15am a cup of invigorating tea or coffee accompanied an introduction of the itinerary for the. WAVELENGTH then departed on the 90-minute trip to the edge of the continental shelf, passing Low Isles en route. On arrival at our first site the crew fitted everyone out with high quality gear and shared some tips on snorkeling. Once in the water we were free to explore the wonders of the reef. After morning tea and some time to reflect on the beauty of nature we moved along to another site. Here, with all passengers having mastered their new snorkeling skills, we followed one of the crew on a guided snorkel tour. We saw a huge clam which must have been three feet across. The deli-style lunch included a range of salads, chicken, beef, ham and rolls. Once everyone’s appetites had been satisfied and all questions answered we headed to our final site of the day, where, with a better understanding of the reef, we adventured further alone, exploring endless nooks and crannies. Saw a sea turtle at very close range. Following afternoon tea we headed back and arrived in Port approximately 4.30pm.
Wed., Oct 24--fly Cairns to Brisbane (dep 4:40 pm, arr 6:45 pm)Took Del’s advice and drove through miles of sugar cane fields to Etty Bay, about an hour south of Cairns, where we hoped to see a Cassowary. We found Antoinette and looked out at the beach, where Etta, the Cassowary, was strolling. Wonderful pictures before she disappeared into the jungle. Had lunch there on the beach, drove back to Cairns, returned the car, caught the plane to Brisbane just as the sun was going down, Cabbed to our very urban, river front apartment, Skyline Mint Resort, with a room on the 35th floor. Had a good Italian dinner.
Thu., Oct 25—Brisbane; Skyline Mint Resort Had a lovely day in a beautiful city. Started in Queen St. Mall in downtown Brisbane, a mix of gracious old buildings, sleek skyscrapers and grassy parks, where we found there to be no Virgin Australia office. Our hotel couldn’t check us in for the flight, so we will leave extra early tomorrow. Browsed the heritage arcades and 500-plus stores on the Mall, the city’s shopping hub. Wound through the exotic, sub-tropical vegetation of the Roma Parkland. Had a nice tour of St. John’s Cathedral with a good guide. Then took a City Hopper boat for an hour and a half free ride up and down the river. Dinner at the same restaurant, el Ciccio. I had four-cheese pizza and Jerry had tagliatelle. Took some photos of the riverfront and prepared for tomorrow’s trip to New Zealand’s South Island..