Kenya--April, 2008
Sunday, March—9:25 pm—check in for Virgin Flight
Monday, March 31, 2008—Herb picked us up at Beach Haven 5 pm. Depart from Newark (Terminal B) at 9:25 pm for a 6 hour and 40 minute flight (VS002) to Heathrow (Terminal 3), arriving at 9:05 am
Hang out at Heathrow ---found a place with sofas (Internet lounge)
Depart on VS671 at 7:15 pm for 8 hour 50 min flight to Nairobi—arrive 6:05 am April 2
Wed--2-Apr-08 – We were met at the airport by a Graduate Tours representative, James, and transferred to the Safari Club in Nairobi. The only all suite hotel in Nairobi with bay windows in both bedroom and lounge accords panoramic views of the city and horizons beyond. It offers a bedroom with dressing table and en suite bathroom communicating into a spacious lounge with comfortable seating, writing desk, dining table, personal bar, personal digital-code safe, and satellite television with remote control. A bit down-at-the-heel, but very friendly staff.
We were picked up by James and the driver, William, who was to be our guide, about 10 after a very good buffet breakfast for the Giraffe/Blixen excursions. Interesting, but not worth a whole day. We should have pushed ourselves for immediate transfer to Samburu. As it was, we were dropped back at the Safari Club about one so that William could drive the 5 ½ hours to camp. We sat around till 6:15, went to the bar for a drink and then to the restaurant at 7 for an expensive but good dinner (sautéed crocodile and baby lamb chops). The driver/guide drove us around Nairobi, which is more of a city that I had remembered, but without much to see or do (no museums, etc). Lots of government buildings and monuments to freedom fighters. Very, very congested and without many traffic rules (note: this was vastly better than the soon to be experienced Cairo). We also saw the slum where many of the riots occurred after the December elections. Saw black-headed oriole and Hadada ibis at Blixen. Black kites soared above the hotel. Maribou storks on trees and rooftops. Here the children think babies come from vegetables at the grocery store. It is evident that the “troubles” have kept tourists away. We were the only ones in the restaurant (which had none of the wines on the list and was out of much of the menu. William has not worked since Dec.
Usually, organized trips to the Karen Blixen House also take in the Giraffe
Manor, which has been set up to protect the Rothschild Giraffe, an endangered
subspecies. There is a tower with educational facilities for school visits, and
where you are high enough to feed the giraffes. Great for the kids, and hard for
adults to resist. There is also a short nature trail where you have to be
careful not to trip over the friendly warthog, and there are feeding stations
giving close-up views of the local birds and squirrels.
Thu, April 3—Fly Nairobi (9:15 am) with views of Mt Kenya to Samburu (one hour 5 min) to Samburu Serena Lodge. Got up early to avoid traffic. Breakfasted at a nice buffet and arrived at Wilson airport by 7:30. The plane (a small prop with four other passengers) flew right by snow-capped Mt Kenya and made one stop at a dirt airstrip before dropping us off. William was there to meet us and we had a short drive to the park and then a good 2 ½ hour game drive. Lunch at the lodge—nice buffet. Afternoon game drive—many birds. Crocodile feeding at 6:30. Dinner and to bed early.
Samburu National Reserve
A place of
endless skies, dust-red plains and palm-fringed rivers, Samburu National Reserve
lies on the fringes of the vast and arid desert once known as the Northern
Frontier District, whose heat-scorched scrublands extend all the way to the
jade-green waters of Lake Turkana and beyond. Physically dramatic, the 104 sq
kilometers landscape of the Reserve features rocky battlements, craggy scarps,
dry river beds and fallen boulders rising out of the thorn scrub against a
backdrop of the far-distant hills and the great red table mountain known as
Lololokwi. As for wildlife, Samburu provides one of the few sanctuaries in Kenya
for the endangered Grevy’s zebra, the rare beisa oryx, reticulated giraffe,
Jackson hartebeest, gerenuk, and the blue-shanked Somali ostrich whilst large
herds of elephant roam the gaunt hills during the day before returning to bathe
on the banks of the river in the evening. This is a dry country ecosystem and
also includes reticulated giraffe, Grevy’s zebra, Somali ostrich and gerenuk
whilst the bird life is diverse and prolific and includes marshal eagle, pygmy
falcons, hornbills and Egyptian geese.
Fri., April 4—Samburu Serena—day of game viewing with private guide in private van. A dawn drive and afternoon and evening drives for 2-3 hours each
Sat., April 5—Samburu to Laikipia
Five-hour game drive followed by drive to Sweetwaters. Lunch there then an afternoon drive and then a fabulous two-hour night game drive (9-11 pm). We saw 11 lions hunting, an aardvark, Thompson’s and Grant’s gazelles, waterbuck, impalas, eland, Jackson’s hartebeest, bush buck, Grevy’s and regular zebras, buffalo, a white-tailed mongoose, silver backed jackal, bunnies, Cory bustard, crowned plover, night jar, crowned cranes, a tawny eagle and 11 lions sleeping.
Sweetwaters Tented Camp
A sheltered
oasis, clustered around a waterhole and set in the pristine calm of its own
private reserve, Sweetwaters Tented Camp is in a class of its own. Abounding
with wildlife, unfettered by the more rigorous strictures of the Kenyan National
Parks and designed to offer a charming blend of under canvas ambiance and
uncompromising luxury, it has long been the preferred retreat of wilderness and
safari lovers alike. One of only four private game reserves in Kenya,
Sweetwaters excels in the provision of privileged seclusion and private game
viewing. Thanks to its private status it also allows such unforgettable
pleasures as
night game drives, guided bush walks and both horse or camel riding across its
game-teaming plains.
Built in the 1970’s, the Camp’s main building was originally the residence of
the ranch manager of this private reserve. Both the Sweetwaters Game Reserve and
the sumptuous Ol Pejeta Ranch were once the private domain of famed
multi-millionaire, Adnan Kashoggi.
Habitat The
reserve comprises extensive savannah grasslands and the riverine forests that
border the Ewaso Nyiro River.
Rooms Accommodation is provided in 39 luxuriously appointed tents (13 doubles, 26 twins). Each tent has a thatched roof, an ensuite bathroom and its own verandah with views over the waterhole.
Dining
The camp prides
itself on the quality of its cuisine offering a 5-course "table d’hôte" dining
experience every night, and a selection of African, Asian, and international
dishes. The "Rhino Restaurant" is accommodated amidst the quaint charm of the
main house, which was once the home of the Ranch Manager. Here open windows look
out over stunning views and the traditional décor features soft sofas,
traditional prints and splendid stone-built fireplaces.
Kashoggi Bar and Lounge
With its blazing log fire, soft lights and enveloping ambiance, this is the
ideal venue in which to enjoy a light aperitif or a relaxing nightcap
Location
The camp lies at
the centre of the
90,000 acres Ol
Pejeta Conservancy, which
lies on the Laikipia plains with views towards Mount Kenya.
Nearest town
The camp is 17 km from Nanyuki, Laikipia District.
Resident wildlife star
The camp also
hosts a tame black rhino called "Morani", rescued from the wild.
Sweetwaters
Chimpanzee Sanctuary
Established in
cooperation with the Kenya Wildlife Service and the Jane Goodall Institute for
Conservation Projects for Chimpanzees Throughout the World, the 1 km sq
sanctuary is a non-profit-making venture and the only sanctuary of its kind in
Kenya. A gentle and charming diversion for children and adults alike, it offers
visitors the unique opportunity of taking a boat ride on the Ewaso Nyiro River,
which flows through the centre of the sanctuary where 26 orphaned chimps enjoy
the peace and harmony of their natural environment.
Sun., April 6—Sweetwaters— The camp enjoys spectacular views over the alternately lush and golden plains towards the snow-capped peaks of Mount Kenya. day of game viewing with private guide in private van. A dawn drive and afternoon drive for 2-3 hours each.
Mon., April 7—Laikipia to Naivasha. Long drive to Naivasha with a stop for lunch at Lake Nakuru where thousands of flamingos form a brilliant pink covering over the surface. We had a few rock hyraxes join us for our picnic lunch.
Lake Naivasha Sopa Lodge Situated on the southern shores of Lake Naivasha, second largest of only two freshwater lakes in Kenya's Great Rift Valley, Naivasha Sopa Lodge is an impressive property with a dramatic backdrop. The lake is the stage of some magnificent storms and was named Pasha (Rough Water) by the Masai tribes. An ornithologist’s paradise, the lake is home to 400 species of wonderful birdlife and an abundance of fish and water life. We went for a walk before dinner and saw some new things: Hadada ibis nesting in a tree, a Temminsks stint and two hammerkops. We need a guard to and from dinner to protect us from the hippos.
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Tue., April
8—Naivasha to Masai Mara. Game drive in Kensington Mara
This new tented camp is nestled in a bend of the Talek river just north of the
Mara reserve. Hippos grunting in the river, elephant and giraffe wandering by,
this is luxurious wilderness. A veteran staff carefully look after the selected
guests. Sharing a connection with the local Masai, guests can hike with
warriors, visit the local village, dance along with traditional songs, or hear
the wisdom of generations from a local elder over the evening fire. Each Suswa
tent is luxuriously spread down the riverbank in this pristine 80 acre preserve.
Isolated and private, yet in the midst of a teeming corner of the legendary Mara
park, guests will savor a close connection with nature.
This exclusive camp is
limited to only six luxury tents.
Each tent is professionally furnished by Palacina, the design professionals
behind such luxurious properties as The Palms, and Breezes in Zanzibar. The
Masai theme is showcased with evocative metal headboards, lamps and fixtures.
Hand-woven jute rugs accent the warm honey toned bed covers. Hand carved accents
showcase Masai art. Snuggle up at night under a feather duvet in a sea of soft
pillows. Each tent features two (2) queen beds. Your personal tent attendant
will make sure that the room is meticulously cleaned, with bed turndown, a
carefully drawn mosquito net, and hot water bottle to warm your bed on chilly
nights.
Each expansive tent has five areas. The open verandah is shaded, with canvas
director's chairs and thoughtfully placed reading table angled to catch the best
views of the Talek river immediately in front of you. Enjoy a cool drink or spot
of tea as you watch the theatre of the wild on the far bank of the river.
Inside, the bedroom features special oversized arched windows allowing cool
breezes and warm light to wash through, while keeping the insects outdoors. A
canvas wardrobe is ready to house your clothes, while a steamer trunk holds
extra blankets. Side tables feature shining paraffin lamps, with bright pressure
lamps at your convenience for nighttime reading in bed. The two queen size beds
offer plenty of space to relax in comfort. The tent is completely screened, plus
there are mosquito nets as an added comfort to ensure an uninterrupted slumber.
Immediately behind the bedroom is a change area with ceramic sink on a hand
carved wooden counter with large mirror. A wooden rack has a full set of plush
towels. On your right, an enclosed bathroom with an ensuite toilet. And to the
left, the shower with hot and cold running water.
Food
and Dining
Three main meals
are served each day in the large canvas dining tent overlooking the river.
Picnic meals can also be prepared for your full day game drives. Menus feature
locally grown vegetables and fresh ingredients. Our chefs are adept at preparing
superb bush cuisine. Your dining experience culminates with five course dinners
ending with coffee or tea under the stars. Bottled water is included in the
tariff, and soda, beer and wine are available on a cash basis. On a tall bank,
in a bend in the river, we light an evening fire to warm a semi-circle of chairs
looking into the game park. Enjoy a superb view with good company as you
exchange game viewing stories.
Wed, April 9—Masai Mara-- day of game viewing
Thu, April 10—Masai Mara-- day of game viewing. The camp arranged for the local Masai men to come and dance for us. It was very nice (they charged $10 for the evening)—much more “real” than the one we had seen at the hotel on our earlier trip.
Fri, April 11—Masai to Nairobi—Drive to Nairobi (one hour 15 min).
We saw a group of baboons just before camp and there was a cute albino with them. I took lots of pictures, but apparently they are lost L.
Farewell dinner at Carnivore. Overnight at Safari Club.
Sat., April 12—Transfer to airport for flight (Virgin 672) from Nairobi (9:25 am) for 8 hours 35 min to Heathrow (arr 4:15 pm—term #3).
Airport Shuttle (Hotel Hopper #6—every 15 min 4 pounds per person each way) to Holiday Inn, London Heathrow Ariel—conf #63937402). On line confirm BA flight to Istanbul
